JoshP5

The MSP/MP3 have the fat bars and regular old OEM endlinks, no breakage problems there (that I know of).

_Kansei_

up north = they seize up, then they rust.. then you want to remove them and they break. The whole metal ball inside a plastic cup thing isn't too durable either. For various reasons (impact, extremely harsh jarring, etc) the plastic can break and the endlinks get to the point where you can no longer pivot the ball in it's socket. The hardrace ones are basically the same as the OEM design but without the plastic inside the ends.. I held the hardrace ones in my hands and they were definitely more substantial. I think the rod thickness might be up as well.

The main reason I want the hardrace is the price: $45USD shipped for all 4. It's half the price of OEM (less really). But yeah, they're working on the application for the MSP/MP3 and 99-00 sedan (since it's the same endlink that has to be made).

Edit: there is a trick I've found for keeping the stock endlinks from going to crap. As soon as you install them, hit up the ends (the nut/bolt/etc) with flat black paint, a light coat, then another, then another. Then when it's all dried and cured, like a few days later, check on it again, maybe add another coat, then hit it with rubberized undercoating spray.

I did this with my rear endlinks and the 2 times I've removed them since installing the bar, and they've been A-OK. I already have 5 cans of 3M rubberized undercoating to prep my car for winter (plus getting an undercoating done professionally) so I'm gonna make sure they're still good. You just kinda have to scrape off all the globs of rubber on the bolts to unbolt them when needed.

Edit2: The hardrace isn't going to be any better in terms of rusting.. but it does eliminate the plastic cup.. I'm assuming teflon or some other insert between the metal cup and ball, but maybe it's just pillowball like their adjustable 6-piece rear link set is available.

J-Protege

Haha, sounds good, that's an easy can-do!

Yeh, I wanted HardRace as well, but the vendor said that it may be up until spring until they have a working MSP application.

JoshP5

My wife's Elantra has plastic endlinks. I think the rear sway bar is like 10mm. He. Hehe. Hehehehe.

amsgator

njaremka

get the pics up already, yo!!!!

_Kansei_

I've been waiting aaaaages for the pics :P

J-Protege

Haha, no internet last night, but gave me a good excuse to take lots of pics. Best ones are going up right after I post this in the Video Forum!

Edit: https://www.mazda3club.com/photo-video-gallery-29/8-hot-pics-fall-fotoshoot-46877/

amsgator

bought the weather stripping to fix the spoiler rattle...if thats even the noise i am hearing. i checked the black piece that rattles and it's not moving at all.... i closed my hatch and i realize my license plate cover rattled...so i wonder if it's that instead of the spoiler.

anyone fixed theirs know if the black piece that rattles was movable by hand before you fixed it? mine isnt moving if i push/wiggle so I'm not sure if it's that or my plate cover.

_Kansei_

I don't ever remember it feeling like it moved before I fixed the rattle. Just do it, it's an easy fix.

The license plate is a big rattle source though, that's for sure.

amsgator

the only bad thing is the only stripping they had that was 3/16 inch is only 1/8 in wide

_Kansei_

I just used some random insulation strip I had laying around and it worked fine, it'll probably be ok.

amsgator

i'll try. if not i can lay like two next to each other. i'll prolly try tomorrow if it doesnt rain

JoshP5

Got the embarrassing ricer rub going. What kind of place can you take wheels to where they'll lathe the back and increase the offset?

_Kansei_

A competent machine shop should be able to handle it (with tires unmounted) if it's just 1-2mm. Anything more than that will depend on the design of the wheel. But yeah, they gotta be really good otherwise you'll never be able to get anything balanced.