What have you done to your 3rd Gen today?
#481
#482
I'll hit it with the claybar followed by a nice wax soon enough--thanks for the tip, Chris.
#486
Tech/How-To/Northeast Mod
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Rochester, New York
Posts: 2,517
![_Kansei_ is on a distinguished road](https://www.mazda3club.com/images/reputation/reputation_pos.gif)
Luckily I have avoided getting this common ding, even with 87k miles on the clock
![Smilie](https://www.mazda3club.com/images/smilies/smile.gif)
p.s. I quoted that pic because it's just friggin awesome
![Big Grin](https://www.mazda3club.com/images/smilies/biggrin.gif)
Last edited by _Kansei_; July-16th-2007 at 09:49 AM.
#488
I started to try to take my side moldings off last summer, but the adhesive remover I got was not very effective. I got frustrated and quit.
What did you guys use?
Also, did you just rip off the moldings and go back to get the leftover adhesive, or did you slowly try to take the molding and adhesive off in one pass?
Thanks.
What did you guys use?
Also, did you just rip off the moldings and go back to get the leftover adhesive, or did you slowly try to take the molding and adhesive off in one pass?
Thanks.
#489
Loosened the adhesive up with 3M adhesive cleaner, then just peeled the moldings off, then removed adhesive strips from the body using the 3M pinstripe removal wheel, which attaches to a drill. Took about an hour.
#490
tried the udp today and... i got everything off except the stupid pulley. i had the e brake on and in gear and it still spun... so i am looking for a manual impact driver now. sears has one but it isnt in stock so i am still looking. you gotta get inventive to get at all the bolts though, that's for sure
#491
You can get the pulley off with the following: large breaker bar, an old a/c belt, a pair of vise grips, 1 large wrench
Wrap the belt around the pulley and clamp it tight w/ the grips (the belt should be completely around the pulley). Stretch the free loop over the tow point on the frame (this is why it has to be the a/c belt; the alternator belt will be too short) and secure it by putting a wrench through the tow point. Then have at the pulley bolt w/ the breaker bar. You might have to reposition the grips after you torque it with the bar a few times.
I did this a few days ago and it worked like a charm. It also works fine for reinstalling the pulley.
Wrap the belt around the pulley and clamp it tight w/ the grips (the belt should be completely around the pulley). Stretch the free loop over the tow point on the frame (this is why it has to be the a/c belt; the alternator belt will be too short) and secure it by putting a wrench through the tow point. Then have at the pulley bolt w/ the breaker bar. You might have to reposition the grips after you torque it with the bar a few times.
I did this a few days ago and it worked like a charm. It also works fine for reinstalling the pulley.
#492
wrap it around the teeth part on the pulley? i ordered the impact driver and it says it is in stock. so if i can get it off w/ that, i will use this method to put it back on to be sure it doesnt spin so i can torque it to 120. i havent even looked for the tow point, where is it. does the belt and all just keep it from turning? i thought on the m/t the pulley wouldnt turn if it was in gear and e brake on. i guess i could have someone press the brake as hard as possible as well to keep it from turning for the reinstall. thanks silver, i'll be sure to try this on my next day off
![Smilie](https://www.mazda3club.com/images/smilies/smile.gif)
#493
Tech/How-To/Northeast Mod
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Rochester, New York
Posts: 2,517
![_Kansei_ is on a distinguished road](https://www.mazda3club.com/images/reputation/reputation_pos.gif)
You can get the pulley off with the following: large breaker bar, an old a/c belt, a pair of vise grips, 1 large wrench
Wrap the belt around the pulley and clamp it tight w/ the grips (the belt should be completely around the pulley). Stretch the free loop over the tow point on the frame (this is why it has to be the a/c belt; the alternator belt will be too short) and secure it by putting a wrench through the tow point. Then have at the pulley bolt w/ the breaker bar. You might have to reposition the grips after you torque it with the bar a few times.
I did this a few days ago and it worked like a charm. It also works fine for reinstalling the pulley.
Wrap the belt around the pulley and clamp it tight w/ the grips (the belt should be completely around the pulley). Stretch the free loop over the tow point on the frame (this is why it has to be the a/c belt; the alternator belt will be too short) and secure it by putting a wrench through the tow point. Then have at the pulley bolt w/ the breaker bar. You might have to reposition the grips after you torque it with the bar a few times.
I did this a few days ago and it worked like a charm. It also works fine for reinstalling the pulley.
Doing it without that trick and without an impact will get you nowhere.. because the force needed to get it off WILL spin the crank no matter what.. hence needing an impact wrench because it's not just a powered ratchet, it's different physics (you'll see when you get the impact driver.. you'll be using a hammering force)
#494
yea i know it's pretty cool. each hammer hit has the capability of making 200 lb/ft. should be interesting. i'll have to use that method to get it back on though. the belt goes around the teeth on pulley so it grips right? too bad the impact driver doesnt go the other way too
too bad i dont have a hammer! haha. flea market here i come. $3 hammer! or i could just use my dad's...
![Frown](https://www.mazda3club.com/images/smilies/frown.gif)