What have you done to your 3rd Gen today?
August-1st-2007, 09:56 AM
#616
Banned
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: Central New York
Posts: 1,241
the protege5 / ES rear links are the same, and are SHORTER than the mazdaspeed rear links - the mazdaspeed links are the ones you want with the mazdaspeed bar
August-1st-2007, 10:00 AM
#617
Tech/How-To/Northeast Mod
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Rochester, New York
Posts: 2,517
I know the sedan endlinks I have (the msp is a sedan after all) were not the same size.. don't remember much more specifically though
edit: I just told ken to send me the endlinks for a Protege5 with MSP sway bar
speaking of endlinks I should probably just get new front ones (my third set) even though they are fine right now (just can't remove them)
edit: I just told ken to send me the endlinks for a Protege5 with MSP sway bar
speaking of endlinks I should probably just get new front ones (my third set) even though they are fine right now (just can't remove them)
Last edited by _Kansei_; August-1st-2007 at 10:05 AM.
August-1st-2007, 11:07 AM
#620
Tech/How-To/Northeast Mod
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Rochester, New York
Posts: 2,517
August-1st-2007, 11:26 AM
#621
Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Rockland, Maryville
Posts: 837
My ****'s going on Monday. Liquid Wrenched all my endlinks this morning, and will continue doing so every morning until Monday, hoping they'll come off ok. They look ok.
PS you can use the front rubber swaybar bushings from an LX on rear RB bar on the stock mounts for clunk-free operation.
PS you can use the front rubber swaybar bushings from an LX on rear RB bar on the stock mounts for clunk-free operation.
August-1st-2007, 11:44 AM
#622
Scooty Puff Sr.: The Doombringer
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Lawrenceville, Ga
Posts: 642
My ****'s going on Monday. Liquid Wrenched all my endlinks this morning, and will continue doing so every morning until Monday, hoping they'll come off ok. They look ok.
PS you can use the front rubber swaybar bushings from an LX on rear RB bar on the stock mounts for clunk-free operation.
PS you can use the front rubber swaybar bushings from an LX on rear RB bar on the stock mounts for clunk-free operation.
August-1st-2007, 12:02 PM
#624
Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Rockland, Maryville
Posts: 837
Hmm, my parts catalog says
99-00: B26R-34-156
01-03 w/out rear disk brakes: BL2J-34-156
I don't know which is 20mm--probably a question for Jason at onlinemazdaparts.com
Might also need the front swaybar mounting bracket B25D-34-155, also a question for Jason.
Of course you'll lose a little tightness back there, but since the front bushings are rubber it should match.
99-00: B26R-34-156
01-03 w/out rear disk brakes: BL2J-34-156
I don't know which is 20mm--probably a question for Jason at onlinemazdaparts.com
Might also need the front swaybar mounting bracket B25D-34-155, also a question for Jason.
Of course you'll lose a little tightness back there, but since the front bushings are rubber it should match.
August-1st-2007, 12:59 PM
#627
Tech/How-To/Northeast Mod
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Rochester, New York
Posts: 2,517
lol nice. It'll still clunk when it binds up and wears down the rubber though, no?
I just dropped my manifold/turbo/piece of downpipe and the rest of the downpipe off to get welded. The dude started welding it right then and there.. he just had me hold on to one pipe and close my eyes lol. I love that welding shop (same one that welded my oil pan). After he did 2 little preliminary welds I told him I wasn't in any emergency and could just come pick it up tomorrow (last time I rode all the way there on bike with an oil pan so it was more urgent lol). Hopefully it doesn't cost a ton but it needed to be done. Sometime early next week (when I've re-zoomed my car) I'm going to leave work early to get there and have him weld on a bracket so I can bolt the corksport j-pipe where the factory j-pipe bolts to the block (well the crankcase support piece). no more cracking from you!
95 degree heat + humidity + driving in the ghetto where there's people walking in the streets so traffic moves at 15mph + no a/c = ftl :P and I was wearing business casual (2 shirts, pants, etc.. ) way uncomfortable
I just dropped my manifold/turbo/piece of downpipe and the rest of the downpipe off to get welded. The dude started welding it right then and there.. he just had me hold on to one pipe and close my eyes lol. I love that welding shop (same one that welded my oil pan). After he did 2 little preliminary welds I told him I wasn't in any emergency and could just come pick it up tomorrow (last time I rode all the way there on bike with an oil pan so it was more urgent lol). Hopefully it doesn't cost a ton but it needed to be done. Sometime early next week (when I've re-zoomed my car) I'm going to leave work early to get there and have him weld on a bracket so I can bolt the corksport j-pipe where the factory j-pipe bolts to the block (well the crankcase support piece). no more cracking from you!
95 degree heat + humidity + driving in the ghetto where there's people walking in the streets so traffic moves at 15mph + no a/c = ftl :P and I was wearing business casual (2 shirts, pants, etc.. ) way uncomfortable
August-1st-2007, 02:15 PM
#628
Scooty Puff Sr.: The Doombringer
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Lawrenceville, Ga
Posts: 642
So are you keeping the car now?! Good lord you change your mind more than my ex girlfriend.........
Ooh I want the chicken. No the steak. Wait, pasta looks good. Maybe the fajitas. DAMN IT JUST EAT SOMETHING! lol
Ooh I want the chicken. No the steak. Wait, pasta looks good. Maybe the fajitas. DAMN IT JUST EAT SOMETHING! lol
August-1st-2007, 02:17 PM
#629
Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Rockland, Maryville
Posts: 837
August-1st-2007, 02:21 PM
#630
Tech/How-To/Northeast Mod
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Rochester, New York
Posts: 2,517
