What have you done to your 3rd Gen today?
#632
#633
Tech/How-To/Northeast Mod
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Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Rochester, New York
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I picked up my downpipe before work today (yay shop that opens at 7:30). He managed to get it fully welded with the downpipe still mounted to the turbo, but wants me to get the downpipe off the turbo so he can add a big chunk of stainless steel right near the flange on the inside of the first bend for added strength. He said the corksport steel was quite thin in that area and definitely wasn't made to last. I think instead of that I'm just going to go ahead with his original plan of bracing the lower part of the downpipe to the engine where the stock j-pipe bolts on. Then the s-pipe won't need diesel strength. $30.00 well spent (I was expecting it to cost a lot more!.. it's recognized by people on a local car enthusiast forum as being the best welding shop in the city!)
I could be turboed again as soon as.. well really since I just had it all apart on Sunday it should only take a couple hours at most. I won't have to find random bolts to plug my coolant lines with or anything!
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#636
Tech/How-To/Northeast Mod
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strengthening the downpipe further would .. not really work, because I'd have to take the downpipe off the turbo, drop it off at 7:30am tomorrow, pick it up during my lunch break.. and then I have a date friday night so I can't turbo my car that night lol she wouldn't be pleased
Plus I have the AWR 95 duro front and rear motor mounts and their side inserts.. so my engine surely won't move any more. The crack in the corksport downpipe was right on the weld, so it isn't that the pipe itself was inherently too weak, just crap welds. It cracked on its own (had SLS front and side mounts at the time), then the crack was worsened when my sls side mount shattered. I had the AWR **** on when it finally just fell off, but it was just dangling before so it isn't the fault of the AWR mounts. with it braced on the block you could have a downpipe made out of paper and as long as said paper could withstand 1600F temps, you'd be golden.. no rips :P
Last edited by _Kansei_; August-2nd-2007 at 10:24 AM.
#638
Because bracing it to the block is done with the turbo/downpipe installed on the car.. i.e. I can turbo my car tonight after work.
strengthening the downpipe further would .. not really work, because I'd have to take the downpipe off the turbo, drop it off at 7:30am tomorrow, pick it up during my lunch break.. and then I have a date friday night so I can't turbo my car that night lol she wouldn't be pleased
Plus I have the AWR 95 duro front and rear motor mounts and their side inserts.. so my engine surely won't move any more. The crack in the corksport downpipe was right on the weld, so it isn't that the pipe itself was inherently too weak, just crap welds. It cracked on its own (had SLS front and side mounts at the time), then the crack was worsened when my sls side mount shattered. I had the AWR **** on when it finally just fell off, but it was just dangling before so it isn't the fault of the AWR mounts. with it braced on the block you could have a downpipe made out of paper and as long as said paper could withstand 1600F temps, you'd be golden.. no rips :P
strengthening the downpipe further would .. not really work, because I'd have to take the downpipe off the turbo, drop it off at 7:30am tomorrow, pick it up during my lunch break.. and then I have a date friday night so I can't turbo my car that night lol she wouldn't be pleased
Plus I have the AWR 95 duro front and rear motor mounts and their side inserts.. so my engine surely won't move any more. The crack in the corksport downpipe was right on the weld, so it isn't that the pipe itself was inherently too weak, just crap welds. It cracked on its own (had SLS front and side mounts at the time), then the crack was worsened when my sls side mount shattered. I had the AWR **** on when it finally just fell off, but it was just dangling before so it isn't the fault of the AWR mounts. with it braced on the block you could have a downpipe made out of paper and as long as said paper could withstand 1600F temps, you'd be golden.. no rips :P
#639
Tech/How-To/Northeast Mod
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There won't be any forced on it though.. it'll be braced underneath the block (like stock), forcing any motion of the engine to be absorbed not by the downpipe but by the flex piece on my midpipe.
And yes, I'm doing it this way because it'll let me get the car turboed today instead of Saturday.. I can't stand the noise of being N/A, it's so loud I feel like some sort of ricey civic but with a very tasteful catback :P
corksport will replace for free if you have any aftermarket mounts (and send them pictures of all your mounts so they can examine the pictures to make sure a mount wasn't slightly worn out), so I don't believe at all that it'll break again with new and improved non-shitty welds PLUS a big brace to the engine block that wasn't there before, PLUS brand new every single AWR mount ever made, the stiffest models available.
And if it cracks again.. 2 hours and it's back off the car and in the trunk and back to the welder.. oh well, not a big deal, doesn't cost me anything more or less, etc.
#641
Tech/How-To/Northeast Mod
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