Brake Bleeding Problem

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Old March-4th-2003 | 03:23 PM
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Brake Bleeding Problem

I'm having trouble getting air out of my brake system after rebuilding a rear caliper. The caliper was off the car for over an hour, so, the line and caliper drained quite a bit. Here are some issues:

1. The bleeder valve seems blocked, so, fluid only leaks out around its base...is this a problem? Should it be replaced?

2. Does the system share all four corners or is it broken up into diagonal circuits...ie, can I skip bleeding the opposite circuit? If not, which corners are matched up. I had the left rear caliper off.

3. Can I bleed effectively without using the hose/bottle technique? (I do have a helper to push the pedal)
Old March-4th-2003 | 05:41 PM
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1. Your best bet would be to unclog the bleeder or get a new one. You can't connect a hose to a blocked bleeder.

2. The brake system should be split into diagonal circuits. So, the left rear will be on the same circuit as the right front. However, it is always best to bleed the entire brake system. The new brake fluid will keep moisture out of the lines.

3. You could bleed effectively, however you will not know when to stop. By using a hose and bottle, you can see the air bubbles. Plus, brake fluid is corrosive and is bad for the environment. Keep those fluids contained!
Old March-4th-2003 | 11:51 PM
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You can also pick up a complete Bleeder/Vacuum kit at a lot of tool stores (Sears etc...) This way you don't need someone to step on the brake pedal...though I have heard of some problems with these not completely bleeding all the air out. Most likely just human error but not positive...
Old March-5th-2003 | 02:10 AM
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If you have an older mazda <97 you can check get some
speed bleeders which makes bleeding the brakes an easy
1 person job. They don't list any mazdas newer than 97.

you can find them at -> www.speedbleeder.com

I have them on my jeep and they work great. I just asked
them if they'd make one for my 2002 p5 because this thread
reminded me.
Old March-5th-2003 | 09:41 AM
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Originally posted by Installshield
You can also pick up a complete Bleeder/Vacuum kit at a lot of tool stores (Sears etc...) This way you don't need someone to step on the brake pedal...though I have heard of some problems with these not completely bleeding all the air out. Most likely just human error but not positive...
FWIW I hate vacuum pumps. They tend to pull air through the threads of the bleeder screws, making it impossible to judge when the brake system is truly free of air because the little bubbles will *never stop*. Forget the idea and get a friend to operate the brake pedal. I've heard many good things about Russell Speed Bleeders, but I have no personal experience with them; however, I've mail ordered a set that should arrive later this week, so I'll know soon.

Oh yeah, to address the original question....

1) Yes, it's a problem, and yes, it should be replaced.

2) Yes, it's broken into diagonal circuits, but completely draining a portion of the brake system, such as when you remove a caliper, will often drain it all the way up to the master cylinder. Don't jack around and be lazy, bleed the whole system.

Good luck!
Old March-5th-2003 | 10:58 AM
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Thanks Folks!

Thanks for all the good advice! I will rebleed all 4 corners this weekend.
(it's amazing what one will rationalize at 10 below zero lying on your back on ice here in norhtern Vermont. Certainly any short cuts are easy pickings ;-)

Jim
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