So if you need to use the Allen to pull the piston back on the rear brakes, do you then have to adjust it with the new pads? or do you just pull it back all the way and let it adjust itself?

 

My old Miata used similar screw retractors on the rear brakes, and you were supposed to tighten it until you could feel the rear brakes start to drag, then back it off 1/4 to 1/3 turn.

 

PLEASE tell me that you guys DO know to flush your brake fluid out at least with every pad change? Reason is that, brake fluid is poly glycol (off hand im not 100% positive) and it ABSORBS moisture that occurs always and there is nothing you can do about it. Even if there is never any air in the system, itll still get moisture in it and water causes the fluid to perform worse and worse over time.

Hence, why there is a wet and dry boiling point listed for brake fluids. Besides, once you boil your fluid (all it takes is slamming on the brakes a few times) and you really need to replace it as it becomes even more succeptible to water absorption and temp. fluctation and poor pressures in the system. Brake fluid is definetely not a hydraulic fluid you wanna keep forever. Just an FYI guys. have a good nite!

 

DOT 5.0 is Silicone based I believe, but everything else is what you mentioned and what our cars have.

It is true that brake fluid will absorb water over time, but I don't think it has to be done every pad change. Most brake jobs from dealers and Shops don't change the fluid every pad change. It should not remian in the car for the life of it, meaning it should be eventually changed but under normal driving conditions it will out last the pads and rotors at least I thought...

 

it is hydroscopic. Like walight posted it absorbs water. Depending on how you drive you should do it either before the recommended interval or sooner. If you autox or track the car then definitely sooner. even if you never opened the system up water gets in. If it gets bad then your brake pedal gets mushy and goes to the floor.