Sort of...It more or less depends on where the air is. if the master cylinder is binding or has air in the right places to keep it from releasing pressure fully, it could effect all 4 brake calipers. And yes it very well could effect gas consumption.

by the way, do you have ABS? I don't know much about the Electronic Brake Force distribution system on the ABS cars, so I don't know if that would all effect the rears as much or not...

 

If there was brake drag to the point of messing up milage that much.. I would think you would have had less than 60-70% left at this point.. but I guess it would depend how long it's been happening..

All the premature brake problems I've heard about lately have me freaked out.. think I'm getting a full check up when my car goes in for her next oil change

 

hmm...this was a while ago so I didn't know how to look at this stuff myself....

I took my old 90 camry in to the dealer and said it made a lot of noise...they told me my brakes were glazed...and that they actually performed better that way....

I think they got that way after I had to slam on the brakes... (dark road...CAT! ack )

Anyways dunno if this is BS or whatever as this was before I took any interest into doing stuff myself

 

It is true that heat cycling brakes when they are new is the best thing for matching the pad and rotor surfaces. You can read different ways of doing this but in general a series of hard 60mph/100kmh stops will match them up properly. This is what I think the guy you talked to was refering to...this is also why things get confusing...

From what I have been told, rotors rarely warp but get pad material burned onto them. Some refer to this as being warped anyway, some as glazed, "sugared", coated, burned or whatever else.

As you stated some also state heat break-in cycles for new brakes as being "glazed"...

So yes you can glaze your rotors for proper operation in a good way, and you can glaze your rotors by burning pad material onto them, which is in a bad way...Technically both can be refered to as glazed though

 

Yeah, that sounds about right... there wasn't any performance decrease or problem, it just squealed like hell... this was my dad's car that I was borrowing so I didn't realize the brakes were pretty fresh, was used to the squealing sound being the wear indicator (this was the Camry that had been in the family for years and therefore had already been through several brake changes. ).

 

Your dealer probably means that your pads and rotors are probably too smooth and don't creacte enough friction to perform like new. I had this problem on my civic, I don't know what's the cause but in my case the rear drum would not adjust so the car was only breaking from the front end creating over heating on the front. Intalled rear disk changed front rotors and pads and never had the problem again. Just my opinion!

Here are some extensives posts for the tech articles forum but very usefull. (the warped breaks myth is explained in details)
have fun great article!


http://www.protegeclub.com/forum/sho...threadid=17195

 

Just an update:

I had my 2 front rotors replaced under warranty, as well as the 2 front caliper boots. I was told thats all I needed, and even then I REALLY didn't need them.

Well 2 weeks later and the brakes are worse then they were before. They now grind and vibrate when applying them.

Anyone have any idea what would cause this?

 

Did they replace the pads too? I know you said yours are 'burnt.' They should only be half the price of the rotors anyway. Maybe the pads are grinding the rotors weirdly?

 

No they said the pads were fine.

But whats weird, is the grinding/vibrating doesnt ALWAYS happen. And the pedal makes a funny clicking noise when you press on it...but only sometimes.

Ah well, I'll have to call the dealership back 2morrow.

 

Do you have an auto transmission? That "click" might be the shift lock thingy disengaging, perhaps it's just more noticable at times.