If you pump it up to like 90psi, well yeah.

If you follow the instructions (pressurizing it to less than stock pressure), no

 

Here you go:

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_1...sName=Wrenches

Basically a flare nut wrench is a closed end wrench with a small section removed to allow you to slip it over the pipe. It gives the maximum grip on the nut so you don't round it off.

 

whatever you do order the flare nut wrenches before you need them so that you aren't stuck buying ones from advance auto or INSERT_CRAP_STORE_HERE.

mine friggin bend!

 

folks have done it at 10.

 

If crap broke at 10psi, it wasn't the fault of the power bleeder. There was obviously something up with the system as it were.

 

well i installed the rear pads today. took forever cuz the wheel had seized up on the rotor. good thing my landlord is a gearhead, he's got a restored & tuned up Chevelle SS in the garage. he had everything under the sun to make the job go smoother.

i tell ya, those bolts were on there good! i started around 9:30am, took me forever to do the passenger rear. when that was done, took me about 20 minutes to do the other side and was finished by 1pm. didnt need to reuse the shims, the EBC pads came with them preinstalled.

he also recommended 2 things; dont replace the brake lines and to sand the rotors a bit. he said unless the lines are cracked, they should not be replaced because bleeding would take a while (esp. without those speed bleeders) and me bein a n00b and get air in the lines it would be one big headache. the sanding of the rotors was for better bedding of the new pads. he said there was a glaze on the surface of the rotors and should be lightly sanded to a slight haze. the alternative would be to turn (resurface) them. good to know.

no noticable different during this break-in period. tomorrow i will do the fronts. he told me i can expect a different feel in the brake pedal. should i use the parking brake at all during this brake in period? ive put it in gear so far. thanks for all your help. anything you can suggest if the front wheels are seized too? i had some anti-seize compound a while back but i cant find it now. i guess i should get another tube.

 

tip: pour the hottest water you can find all over the region where the wheel contacts the rotor.

other tip: use anti-seize but be very careful not to get it on the wheel studs. use sparingly

 

It really depends on the condition of the O rings that seal that 'tank'. If those are starting to go, added pressure will be trouble.

And what's wrong with anti sieze on the wheel studs? Plenty of autocrossers (constanty changing tires) use anti sieze on the wheel studs to prevent bungling the threads. When torqued properly, they're not coming off.

 

My wheels are off every couple weeks and I've never actually had a lug nut stick I guess. If you are someone who actually does torque them the proper amount, then again after driving ~75km, etc --then you should be fine

The one time I did let the anti seize get all over (I was actually applying it between the wheel hub and rotor so that my rotors would stop getting seized on), I did check the torque after driving for a day and had to tighten some of the lug nuts again. Then that weekend I drove back to CT and had to pull over after about 6 hours of driving because more had come loose. Maybe it was the type of anti-seize I used or the amount that got all over, I dunno

 

I understand why your landlord told you what he did about the brake lines, HOWEVER, waiting until your lines are cracked is asking for trouble. Besides the reason for installing braided stainless lines is that they expand less under pressure thus giving you more braking power. It really doesn't take that long to bleed the brakes on these cars (I have installed braided lines on two Proteges).

As for anti-seize, you definitely don't want to get it on anything like pads/rotors, but otherwise I recommend using it on any threaded fastener. Makes life easier when you have to take it apart again. In my line of work you learn early on to use the stuff as much as possible. One thing to note, most torque values are given for dry fasteners. If using lubricant on the threads it takes less torque to acheive the same amount of force. There are tables for this sort of thing, I don't have access to any right now but I am sure you can Goggle it or something.

 

skipped the fronts for now...there is something i need to tend to in the meanwhile. the pads still have some life to 'em.

the lines i guess will wait for a rainy day.

i noticed the rear rotors are starting to groove a bit? before the 'glaze' was even around the rotor, now it seems like the glaze is only concentrated in one area. i wish i could take some pics but like i said, there is something more serious going on right now. thanks again everybody. i'll keep you all updated.

 

finished the fronts! sorry no pics. at this point i just wanted them done, and maybe survive the 1st ride. all the how-tos and service manuals were very helpful and kudos to the writers and the mazda community.

1 question though, it sounds as if the passenger front is rattling. i dunno if the thin metal guide plates are causing the problem...i did not grease them with brake grease as the manual said. it seemed fine when i skipped that part in the rear pads. by the looks of the new rotor, the plates might be scratching them....again sorry for lack of pics. its getting dark, im sweaty, the brakes are burning hot and im hungry.

good news is the car stops & rides fine except for that slight rattle sound. it occurs at speeds up to 35 mph (i have not driven any faster yet) even when im not braking. any clues might be helpful. or next weekend i might just pull it apart and put some of that grease on the guide plates. other than that the new rotors look awesome. off to clean up and eat something, thanks again for all the help.