Anybody have 6 1/2's in the doors? I have custom made kick panels for my 5 1/4" seperates and will be placing the 6 1/2 midbass in the doors and wanted to know what to look for or not look forward to! I have my amp rack carpetted and ready to mount in the trunk. I will probably use one of my SoundStream SPL 12's in a small enclosure to save a little trunk space. Plus when I had both of them in a '91 Eclipse, it was incredibly loud. Maybe it's just me getting older and not needing all that insane bass from 2 - 12s.
But as far as the midbass in the doors, it looks as though I am going to have to make a trim ring out of some thin piece of wood, but first drill a little in to the metal of the door (from the looks of things). Just wondering if any one else had place that size driver in their front door in a 2001 on up sedan or P5.

Thanks!

Mister T

 

Hihoslva has done this with a component set for sure.

Dale.

 

I have 2 6 1/2 in the back doors, i had to do a wood donut to fit them in the OEM speakers emplacement.

 

I have carefully dissected a set of door panels in my shop and am working on speaker placement right now. The doors will indeed some type of adaptors, if nothing else to secure the sides of the hole. Make sure to weatherproof the sin out of the rings.
I am toying with the concept of the 6.5 in the doors, and the other two drivers in kickpanels. I also have a spare set of panels for the kicks amd am looking for a flowing set of kickpanels, no distinct front and rear edges, more like swells in the exsisting panels.
I think this can be done, but it does repersent substantial modifications to the doors and cabin, not always a plus for resale.

 

Yeah, I was thinking of getting a thin piece of wood to accomodate the 6x8 hole and trim a little off the top with a Dremel device. I used the Dremel with replacing the exhaust system on my previous full sized Jimmy. I figured the metal is about the same as far as thickness is concerned. I just wonder if the panel will go over it without any small bulge in it.

Mister T

 

what kind of car? I put 6.5 speakers into my 1st gen in the front doors, however it is a 3-hole placement for the speaker, so be selective when selecting speakers.

 

6.5's will fit - no problem.

You will need to make or buy an adapter however.

As I see it, there are advantages and disadvantages to both buying and making.

In all probability, the adapter you would buy will be made of plastic, which ain't so great for isolating the speaker from the door and getting the best sound. But it is an easy way to go, and should require minimum mods to the car, if any. The adapter may need to be trimmed, but that's no big deal. Depending on your speaker, you might have to trim a small portion of the door panel metal - maybe.

By making your own, you can build them from MDF, and create a better isolator. You also will not have to trim any door metal, as the speaker will sit further from the panel and there will be no interference - I actually had RF 6.75's in there with no problems. But, you DO have to make them, which not everyone wants to do. And you must waterproof them somehow, or they will fall apart form moisture in a few months.

Also, if making your own, you will need to trim the plastic ring that extends from the inside of the plastic door panel. If you get the doors off, you'll see what I mean. It interferes with any speaker mounted on an adapter more than 1/8" thick. Quick work with the dremel, though - all four of my doors have them zipped off.

Either way, have no fear in putting 6.5s in the front doors. With a little easy work, they fit and sound just fine.

~HH

 

I appreciate the help. It's nice to know what you are getting yourself in to before going in. Crutchfield sells acoustic baffles that are supposed to make speakers sound better and keep moisture out. Do you know if they work? Thanks again my friend!

Mister T

 

Those XTC foam baffles aren't a bad buy - in fact, I'm using them!

They do a good job, and actually seem to help the bass response of the speakers, by putting them in a small "enclosure".

The real moisture issue is the MDF - the foam baffles will not keep moisture away from the MDF adapters, should you make them. They really need to be waterproofed themselves.

I just made new ones, and used some oil-based paint I had laying around to seal them up. I put on a ton of coats. Hopefully, they won't turn to mush like my last set.

~HH

 

i have 6 1/2''s in my door on my 2ng gen

 

looks like this is getting some good answers!
The plastic inserts are only fair as a sound insolator, but they can have deadening material such as dynamat like stuff (do any of use really use dynamat anymore? ) onto them and they work just fine.
I have done MDF and it has good results, but as pointed out get it wet and it is a log of soggy cardboard.
XTC baffles are an interesting concept, and I keep some around for mosture purposes also, but there real use is as pointed out a basic sound enclosure. Soudwaves absord to nuetral very quick and then have a touch of bouce back, so in these dinky foam numbers keep noise from going backwards into the metal of a car and transmitting all over the place in a unwanted fashion.
I think we all talked about this recently again, but Mazda doesn't make these doors to be water tight at all! The designers draw the line at the inner panels of the door itself, not the metal skin of the car. Check out those cute little water drains in the bottom of the door lip!
One of the few reasons I liked retention of a stock size speaker in the front of a protege is you can recycle the little black sheilds Mazda puts on the stock speakers to keep the rain off. Anymore most of the speakers we all use will not get hurt per se by the water, at least the cone anyway, because they are now made of some varation of fancy plastic. The spyders are the hard part! A spyder is the litte acordian like moving connector between the cone in the rear and the magnet's frame. The best ones are still made of varations of cloth, and give them a soaking in the smallest amount of water and they are ruined forever!
I met a guy at the Mazda dealership today (Got they RX-7 back the other day and the turbos still needed a touch of timing) who owns a nice 3rd generation Protege P5 that he had installed a decent enough system in, but the poor dog has been wiped out by the weather! Passenger front speaker dead, drivers rear speaker dead, amp in the rear of the hatch got a nice pile of snow flopped onto it, and it appears dead, and a skipping headunit too boot! He is came over this afternoon, and we pulled it all out, all the speakers have water damage, the amp has water damage on the board, and the headunit appears to have been pounded to death because of on back strap.
We are working on a system for him, I guess I will be add a post on it!

 

I put 6.5s in the front doors using the scosche adapters and I was able to stick the black shields from the stock speaker onto the adapter. Without the black shields you would probably be able to get more mounting depth. But they fit great on the speakers I ended up getting.

 

That's interesting about how Mazda uses a shield on the back of the stock speakers from all the rain and the drains, what tha f--k?! What were they thinking? These are great pointers. The 6 1/2's I have are SoundStream Reference series midbass, and I would hate to ruin those! I got them via dealer accomodation from working at a shop back in '95 or '96. I wouldn't have been able to afford anything SoundStream except through dealer accomodation, you get 60% off of retail price. Kenwood's was even better, but by the time they put one together, I had already purchased every thing for my system. You could get a kick *** system for a mere $400!! It was the venders way of enticing you to buy their stuff because they figured you would show it off to your friends and they would want the same thing.
I'll look out for the water moccasins <spelling?> when removing the door panels!

Thanks everyone!

Mister T

 

I got the solution!! Pour Rain-X all over the back of the speakers and panel. NOT

 

I got the XTC acoustic baffles in on Friday, some Thompson's waterseal as well as polyurethane. I plan on doing it this weekend. Also, have to do a little cosmetics to my kickpanels to accomodate the smaller tweeters to fit the holes that were cut for the original owner's tweets. Lastly, I have to mount the amprack, tie in the wires, and then hook up a relay for the remote wires and whammo, I'll be in business.

Mister T