I've got a '03 P5 with all factory stereo. Someone gave me a sub box and a decent amp. What kind of outputs does the modular AM/FM/CD head unit have, if any?

The newest P5's now come from the factory with an under-floor subwoofer, and the Mazda site says it includes the necessary wiring harness. Has anyone seen one of those harnesses yet or know what it looks like?

Any input is appreciated.

 

The Protege stock radio does not have RCA output, but you can buy an adaptor that will hook up to your speaker wires and run your amp. I don't remember the company that makes them, but when I worked for a local hi fi shop, I noticed that there are instructions on the back on how to wire the adaptor to a factory system. Although a new head unit would be more ideal, it would work.

Michael

 

MisterT:

Can you PLEASE stop giving out your OPINIONS as though they are TRUTHS.

Can you PLEASE stop telling people that they need to ditch the stock HU?

That is your OPINION.

An EXCELLENT sounding system can be had using the stock stereo as a source. Occasionally it is more difficult to reduce noise in a system like this, but it is nowhere near impossible, and not always the case. In fact, many members of this board HAVE added amplifiers/speakers/subs to the stock system with fine results.

And if the amplifier has high-level inputs (as MANY of them do), there is no need for an "adapter" to get this to work.

I've read a number of threads where you gave this blanket advice to ditch the stock deck, though that's the only "good" way to make a system. Well, it's not.

You also told a guy whose rear speakers stopped working that he "fried the voice coils". All he did was accidentally turn them off at the deck. Again - blanket statements that aren't necessarily true and push the guy into worst-case scenarios without testing or exploring any other options.

You sound like you *still* work for that hi-fi store, and are pushing to sell equipment.

If you KNOW, fine. If you are SPECULATING or stating OPINION, make it known.

~HH

 

HH,
Wow you sound really pissed. This site is only to help people which I am only trying to do. Don't get on the offensive! If my opinion means nothing to you then fine, take it as a grain of salt. Just trying to help my fellow Protege fanatic.
As far as the other guy with the fried speakers is concerned, I suggested usting a voltage meter to determine if the voice coils were fried but when a speaker is working fine and stops working all of a sudden, 9 times out of 10 that is what is wrong. I am not mad at you, but am wondering why you are mad at me from the sound of your response. Replacing the factory head unit in my car DID make a difference in my car, but whether or not some one is going to do it is simply up to them. If I was trying to "sell" something, I would say "go to www.buystereosfromme.com." And that's not the truth.

Lastly, no offense taken, just trying to help some one.

Mister T

 

Dude - I'm not pissed - but it gets frustrating when I see opinions given as fact, and reccomendations made that sound like it's the "only way".

Telling a guy that if he "cares about SQ" that he has to ditch the stock HU is just plain wrong. And it's not giving the guy all the options. There is plenty of truth to what you are saying - that an aftermarket HU with RCA outputs will make for a better sounding system. Chances are, this is true. But the problem is in the way you say it - as though it's the ONLY way to have a system that sounds great. It's not. And it's more expensive. And it's more installation work. And not everyone wants to get rid of the factory deck, both for looks, ease of use, and functionality. For many people, keeping the stock HU is the best option.

And the thing with the speakers - again, you may have been right on. But instead of even considering the fact that he did something else, you replied with "your coils are fried". Not "maybe", not "did you check everything else first". From the sound of the guy's post, he doesn't know much about this stuff. Telling him to go test the speaker with a meter is probably the same as telling him to go read Russian - he won't know what to do.

Sometimes - simpler is better - K.I.S.S.

All I was trying to say is that it's not really fair to state what you THINK as the way it IS.

I know you're trying to help - and that's appreciated by everyone. Just try to separate opinions from fact - that's all. I'm not a moderator around here, nor do I claim to know everything about everything. But if I asked something here, I'd hate to get people TELLING me what to do, based on opinions only. I think you would too.

Aight - I don't want have this drag out into a major issue. It's not THAT important.

<hihoslva requests a handshake from MisterT>

Are we cool?

~HH

 

The company that makes an adapter is called PAC. You should be able to get the adaptor anywhere that sells car stereo. Crutchfield and SoundDomain should carry them too. Hope this helps.

Michael

 

Other LOCs can be obtained from audiolink or David Navone. I used the audiolink ones (I posted a link before, try a search on audiolink).

 

Argh, why is life so hard? I talk to a friend of a friend and he told me to stay away from hooking it up to the factory speakers, as it will sound like ****. So I said screw it for now and took back the amp kit I had bought. Then I check back here and I hear that it will work just fine. I wish I hadn't taken back that amp kit now because I've already spent the money I got from it.

A different friend of mine said he will give me one of those adapters and install the whole thing for $20 (plus amp kit). Damnit all to hell!!

I hate me.

 

I asked the same question a month ago and nobody had a clue what I was talking about. Kenwood Sub You may have better luck going to the dealer and asking.

FWIW, I plan on using a line out converter (LOC) to convert the speaker out to an RCA out. I have heard through a number of Protege Owner Club members have had great success using their existing deck.

~4 rubBeR

 

To access the rear speakers in the P5 do you have to take off the whole door panel or does the bottom half just pop out? It feels and looks like it would, but you never can be too sure.

 

Well, if its anything like the front door speakers, then you have to remove the entire interior pannel. Its not too difficult. I used this info to remove the front door pannel.Front speaker install You may find it useful...

~4 rubBeR

 

updated: 4/21/03 10:00 EST
Sorry, none there for the taking easily. I am still guessing that since they have a subwoofer option on the newest P5s that there is some way to get the signal out of the HU (but they might be using a high level output to do it).

at the moment search is down so I can not locate the other thread on the self powered sub in the trunk, but here is what I know about it (from reading the board and asking around)...

1. 2003.5 P5 models can come with it as an option, which means wiring is likely there for it on 2003.5 P5s... not sure about previous models or the "regular" Pros

2. at the moment you can not order it as a "spare" part, I contacted MazdaStuff and they gave me a price (sorry can not recall it at the moment) but availability was not yet posted to the dealers

3. it sits above the spare tire, but in order to have the clearance for it the "floor" of the strunk space in the P5 has a spacer that is required (so you would also need to get that to retrofit it)

4. this is totally off the top of my head, but I think I recall someone pointing out that it was made by Pioneer (but I will need to find that original thread to make sure)

hope that helps some...
-JJB

 

you need to remove the whole door panel

 

I had all speakers listed in my sig powered my two amps off the factory HU in my 2001 ES2.0 before I got my alpine. The system sounded almost better than when powering the speakers now w/just the alpine HU. When playiung the music loud, the amps did not have the % distortion error that the small amp in the alpine HU can cause when you play your music loud. Not to say that my system sounds bad now, in fact it sounds great and so did the system powered w/two amps and stock HU in my ES2.0. Just my $.02

 

HH,
correct me if i'm wrong, but the sole purpose in NOT using rca in-line converters is that it is an active electronic piece and steps it down to a non-powered audio feed, hence, can cause signal noise, and minor distortion? maybe i haven't proven any point at all? lol while i won't go back on what i've said about factory head units in the past, line converters are ideal for leased vehicles.
peace