Exterior/Interior/Audio Discussion for Exterior/Interior Modifications. Sound systems, body kits, etc.

Anyone has their stock speakers lying around?

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Old June-10th-2002 | 01:34 AM
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Anyone has their stock speakers lying around?

I need to know the size of the connector. I'm trying to buy some female spade connector to hook up my new speaker to the factory harness but I need to know the correct size.

Last edited by firefly; June-10th-2002 at 02:23 AM.
Old June-10th-2002 | 10:44 PM
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Cut and Solder.
Old June-11th-2002 | 12:54 AM
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Originally posted by bigwoofer
Cut and Solder.
yes that is the correct way of doing things i too will do that when i replace my speakers.. once my slow *** insurance company pays me
Old June-11th-2002 | 11:26 AM
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Originally posted by bigwoofer
Cut and Solder.
or get some electrical twist nuts.
tape the wires together then use a twist nut
Old June-11th-2002 | 11:40 AM
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Originally posted by Maz94Protege


or get some electrical twist nuts.
tape the wires together then use a twist nut

wtf this isnt house wiring here...lol... solder that ****.
Old June-12th-2002 | 02:07 AM
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Originally posted by islandpro



wtf this isnt house wiring here...lol... solder that ****.
those twisty nuts are GAY! solder is the only way!
Old June-12th-2002 | 10:20 AM
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If I am to cut the harness at the first place then I'll go with butt connectors. It'll be a cleaner install than soldering.

The thing is I want to keep the factory harness intact. So if any warrenty related issue occurs I'll just slap the factory speaker back in and they don't have any excuse denying my warrenty.

Trust me on this one...I'm not sure about Mazda but I came from a Honda and those dealers will blame on anything to get away from warrenty claims.
Old June-12th-2002 | 02:59 PM
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I had a laugh at the solder or crimp religion here. Current runs on surface of wires, that is why nice 4 guage wire is a couple of thousand strands of small wire!
Solder gives you one nice, big lump for surface area.
A proper crimp will have a bit of overlap in the strands in the middle of the connector to keep surface area to the max. The more surface area, the more electron flow.
Don't get me wrong, solder clearly has it's place in the world, In the "sound" car at home I have done masive amounts of soldering, but in judging details count.
For day in and day out, a crimp will do fine. The only detail I make time to do it that I use heat shrink over the crimps to help fight car enviormental factors (Snow, Rain, dirt ).
For show solder- otherwise crimp away!
Old June-13th-2002 | 02:14 PM
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Originally posted by Dave Cameron
I had a laugh at the solder or crimp religion here. Current runs on surface of wires, that is why nice 4 guage wire is a couple of thousand strands of small wire!
Solder gives you one nice, big lump for surface area.
A proper crimp will have a bit of overlap in the strands in the middle of the connector to keep surface area to the max. The more surface area, the more electron flow.
Don't get me wrong, solder clearly has it's place in the world, In the "sound" car at home I have done masive amounts of soldering, but in judging details count.
For day in and day out, a crimp will do fine. The only detail I make time to do it that I use heat shrink over the crimps to help fight car enviormental factors (Snow, Rain, dirt ).
For show solder- otherwise crimp away!
You are right current runs on the surface of the wire. But, I don’t agree. Solder with terminate each and every one of the wires. Where if you crimp them you could have some of the wires not terminated. Giving you not as good connection. Plus oxidation will set in with in thirty days. I know you said to use some heat shrink of it. Which will work. But just a wire nut or a crimped connection will lose some of its conductivity. Where solder is a sealed connection. Anything worth doing is worth doing right.

Last edited by islandpro; June-13th-2002 at 02:17 PM.
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