Okay, I have 4 gauge wires running to the distribution block and a 1.5 farad stiffening cap, and 8 gauge wires running to both amps which are less than 16 inches away. My lights are dimming slightly when cranked up. I don't know what gives. I know the amps draw some current, but that is why I have the big 1.5 farad stiffening cap. I am thinking of getting a better battery. I know Optima makes awesome batteries, but not sure about paying the hefty price, so I was thinking of looking at Die Hard Batteries from Sears or some where. Does any one know what kind of battery size, cold cranking amperage, etc. that the Protege's come with? I am thinking that this may do the trick.

FYI: In my '91 Eclipse, I didn't have power windows and had a smaller alternator and the lights didn't dim. However, I had to replace the battery within a year of having the same **** installed in that car as my new one.

Mister T

 

check Exide batteries, they are Optima any more. A larger battery will probably help. You might want to search the topic of batteries and a search on alternators, there are several good threads on the subject.
You can fit a optima.
Don't forget the Protege alternator (like all stock alternators) is designed to produce it's best output at about 2000- 3000 rpm. The longer the car is run though, the hotter the alternator and the ICs get, and the less efficient the output will be. Also lights on and dimm? I would imagine so! The alternator has a specific number of amps is can crank, in out instance somewhere around 65 off the top of my head. Count the amps you are using before the stereo is added. the entire lighting system, heat/ac blowers, and the engines use itself (not much really) and you will find there is very little left over amperage to run the stereo. The battery then gets to act as a pool of surplus energy to meet demand. IF you pull on the pool hard enough and don't have it getting filled rapidly enough (2500 RPM and no other drains) your lights will bounce to the music.
So is this bad? Not really if you use regulated power amps and you don't drain Mr. Battery to death. Just make sure you spend sometime with little or no load on the battery while driving so that it does get a chance to recharge.
A regular higher cold crank amp battery will you just fine. Spirals are fun and cool to look at, but some of the best SPL and Burb cars I have seen use conventional Exides and do just fine. Deep Cycle is a niche battery- if you intend to drain the batter to total or near total discharge and then charge up and do it all over again, a deep cycle makes sense. As a standard car stereo/starter battery it really is not necessicary. I have seen a lot of folks with them that have been sold on the mystic end of car audio but did not need them.
They can also be a pain in the butt to charge properly to maximize the life of them. I know, I have killed a couple, and still have some for use, but not as daily starter batteries. I have invested in compter controlled deep cycle battery chargers for mine, but frankly I would never recommend them in daily user systems.