B-QUIET "Brown bread" ? (Dynamat alternative)
#16
Originally posted by Dave Cameron
Let us know what way you go!
Let us know what way you go!
I will order the "brown bread" tomorrow. I will also order some of that thick stuff (Hliner). I plan on putting it under the hood. Have you used that before? Do you have any idea how effective it is? All I want is to take away some of that engine noise inside the car.
Hliner is 1/2" thick thermo/acoustic foam with a reinforced aluminum skin. It reduces engine noise in the interior of the vehicle and also reflects the majority of the heat from the engine. This protects the paint on the hood and keeps it looking new.
Hliner should be cut to shape and then applied to the underside of the hood. It is self adhesive to make installation quick and easy.
Each sheet measures 54" x 36" for a total of 13.5 sq. ft. and weighs 3lbs.
Hliner should be cut to shape and then applied to the underside of the hood. It is self adhesive to make installation quick and easy.
Each sheet measures 54" x 36" for a total of 13.5 sq. ft. and weighs 3lbs.
Last edited by Intruder; June-16th-2003 at 01:39 AM.
#18
I have not used that specific product but I have used hoodliner. I would imagine the stuff should work just fine. Because of it's exposed location, and the extreme temps it deals with, the stuff should be considered as a finite lifetime product- I.E. it will eventually need to be replaced.
To kill engine noise, work the firewall between the engine compartment and the cabin heavy with deadening, the transmission and/or exhaust lane down the middle of the car, and the area of the muffler and exhaust. The hood will help, but the other areas will help far more. The drag is getting at the firewall requires a pretty in depth interior removal, but nothing worth doing is quick and easy!!
To kill engine noise, work the firewall between the engine compartment and the cabin heavy with deadening, the transmission and/or exhaust lane down the middle of the car, and the area of the muffler and exhaust. The hood will help, but the other areas will help far more. The drag is getting at the firewall requires a pretty in depth interior removal, but nothing worth doing is quick and easy!!
#19
I kind of figured that out... about the longevity of the Hliner, but I have a question regarding the firewall... On which side should I apply the material? On the inside or on the engine side?
#20
The deadening should be applied to the interior of the car, not under the hood. Most interesting deadening I have seen was in a upper end Japanese car- the car manufacturer loaded a high silica sand into a cavity in the middle of the firewall. Not a bad idea for killing the engine noise, and if would be a good fire barrier, if it only did not weigh an arm and a leg!! I found out about it when a friend of mine drilled a hole though in to run wire, and then spent a day cleaning up the sand!
So inside the car is the best, one wants to "couple" the deadening to the metal that will be vibrating, normally the interior perimeter. Unless you are insane byond reason like I apparently am these days.
Good luck and tell us how it all goes-
So inside the car is the best, one wants to "couple" the deadening to the metal that will be vibrating, normally the interior perimeter. Unless you are insane byond reason like I apparently am these days.
Good luck and tell us how it all goes-
#21
Okay, I'm still learning.
I ordered some "brown bread" already. I'm just waiting for UPS to deliver it. I will probably take the car apart some time next week. I plan on taking lots of pics along the way and sending them to the B-QUIET guys later on. Maybe they will post them on their website and people will see our Protege there.
Once I install the brown bread I will consider buying some Hliner for the hood based on the results I get.
I ordered some "brown bread" already. I'm just waiting for UPS to deliver it. I will probably take the car apart some time next week. I plan on taking lots of pics along the way and sending them to the B-QUIET guys later on. Maybe they will post them on their website and people will see our Protege there.
Once I install the brown bread I will consider buying some Hliner for the hood based on the results I get.
#22
I received the brown bread yesterday along with my new digital camera. It felt like Christmas when I was 4 yrs old. I already had the baffles from Crutchfield, so I decided to start "the noise reduction project".
I gotta tell you - covering the whole interior is not a task for one man.
I started working on the car around noon (record high temps around here ) and decided to stop for the day at around 5:30pm. So, in about 6 hours I managed to cover the rear deck, lay a single layer of brown bread on the floor, and partially cover the trunk (without rolling it really well cuz my friggin fingers got no skin left from that sticky mess!!).
I tried cleaning the doors, and managed to scrape off part of the goo that attaches the plastic to the door (water proofing?? yeah right...), but I did not manage to clean it up - at all! Acetone and rags don't help. What should I use?
I'm beat... I can't wait to resume work on it tomorrow, so I can finish and hopefully hear "the difference". I will kill myself if I can't hear any difference.
I will have pics tomorrow. I think I'm gonna send a few to the B-QUITE guys hoping that they'll post 'em on their website.
I have to finish the trunk, do the doors, and hopefully I will have enough brown bread left to do the roof or maybe even put a double layer on the floor (I'm being overly optimistic)...
So, my question is: How do I get that black goo off the doors?
I'm out...
Martin
I gotta tell you - covering the whole interior is not a task for one man.
I started working on the car around noon (record high temps around here ) and decided to stop for the day at around 5:30pm. So, in about 6 hours I managed to cover the rear deck, lay a single layer of brown bread on the floor, and partially cover the trunk (without rolling it really well cuz my friggin fingers got no skin left from that sticky mess!!).
I tried cleaning the doors, and managed to scrape off part of the goo that attaches the plastic to the door (water proofing?? yeah right...), but I did not manage to clean it up - at all! Acetone and rags don't help. What should I use?
I'm beat... I can't wait to resume work on it tomorrow, so I can finish and hopefully hear "the difference". I will kill myself if I can't hear any difference.
I will have pics tomorrow. I think I'm gonna send a few to the B-QUITE guys hoping that they'll post 'em on their website.
I have to finish the trunk, do the doors, and hopefully I will have enough brown bread left to do the roof or maybe even put a double layer on the floor (I'm being overly optimistic)...
So, my question is: How do I get that black goo off the doors?
I'm out...
Martin
Last edited by Intruder; June-27th-2003 at 12:13 AM.
#23
Well, I'm going to work on the car now...
Man, is it HOT outside...
Man, is it HOT outside...
90°F
Fair
Feels Like 89°F
UV Index: 7 High
Dew Point: 49°F
Humidity: 24%
Visibility: Unlimited
Pressure: 29.91 inches and steady
Wind: From the North at 6 mph
Fair
Feels Like 89°F
UV Index: 7 High
Dew Point: 49°F
Humidity: 24%
Visibility: Unlimited
Pressure: 29.91 inches and steady
Wind: From the North at 6 mph
#24
I didn't do crap. It's too hot...
I took some pics though.
Here:
My Alpine speakers
I think I should cover the firewall as well, but how do I remove this plastic covering? Any suggestions?
And here's a shot of the rear deck/dash/whatever.
I took some pics though.
Here:
My Alpine speakers
I think I should cover the firewall as well, but how do I remove this plastic covering? Any suggestions?
And here's a shot of the rear deck/dash/whatever.
#25
Just think how well you are getting to know the car though...
The sticky stuff will come off with goo off, acetone should help, and a plastic paint scraper will also help, the heat might be helping or hurting. Long ago I invested in heat and air with humidification control in my little shop. I frankly like it to be in the shop the opposite of what is going on outside.
It looks good so far, don't dive up. Sorry I for to tell you plastic surgical gloves and useful for this type of work! Are you going to pull the seats? If you have the energy, do that and deaden under them. The difference will be subtile, don't look for a killer difference up front. Listen for more defined mid bass and clearer high frequencies and better imageing.
I feel for you, I have finished the back doors, the front passenger door, about 50% on the drivers door. I have one good coat throughout the car from the firewall at the window level to the rear bumper, the door coloums, the trunk walls and wheel well, and the trunk lid. I expect to have at least three layers by the end of the first round.
By the way, No B.S.- take a small peice now while you have it and install it on the rear of the tags- it will cut down on the rattle.
Don't give up- it looks really great so far, and you should be proud of your hard efforts.
The sticky stuff will come off with goo off, acetone should help, and a plastic paint scraper will also help, the heat might be helping or hurting. Long ago I invested in heat and air with humidification control in my little shop. I frankly like it to be in the shop the opposite of what is going on outside.
It looks good so far, don't dive up. Sorry I for to tell you plastic surgical gloves and useful for this type of work! Are you going to pull the seats? If you have the energy, do that and deaden under them. The difference will be subtile, don't look for a killer difference up front. Listen for more defined mid bass and clearer high frequencies and better imageing.
I feel for you, I have finished the back doors, the front passenger door, about 50% on the drivers door. I have one good coat throughout the car from the firewall at the window level to the rear bumper, the door coloums, the trunk walls and wheel well, and the trunk lid. I expect to have at least three layers by the end of the first round.
By the way, No B.S.- take a small peice now while you have it and install it on the rear of the tags- it will cut down on the rattle.
Don't give up- it looks really great so far, and you should be proud of your hard efforts.
#26
Thanks
I had the seats off, but I had to go somewhere yesterday, so I put just the front two in place after I decided to stop. There is Brown Bread underneath them!
I have only one license plate, and I don't have a sub yet, but I'll cover it up just because you said so.
I had the seats off, but I had to go somewhere yesterday, so I put just the front two in place after I decided to stop. There is Brown Bread underneath them!
I have only one license plate, and I don't have a sub yet, but I'll cover it up just because you said so.
Last edited by Intruder; June-27th-2003 at 07:07 PM.
#27
Originally posted by Intruder
I think I should cover the firewall as well, but how do I remove this plastic covering? Any suggestions?
I think I should cover the firewall as well, but how do I remove this plastic covering? Any suggestions?
#28
Originally posted by Dave Cameron
The difference will be subtile, don't look for a killer difference up front. Listen for more defined mid bass and clearer high frequencies and better imageing.
The difference will be subtile, don't look for a killer difference up front. Listen for more defined mid bass and clearer high frequencies and better imageing.
#29
Let me see here-
By up to window level I mean I have the dash out, so I am at the firewall and going up to the windsheild. For the doors, the easiest tactic is what I think you are working on- namely removal of the plastic weather barrier, and then replace it with a curtain of brownbread (I thing this is what you were doing). That is by far the easiest route, and will give you fine results. Get it to adhere to as much of the door frame and cross members as you can and roll those areas hard, because the brownbread does indeed weight a bit, and will that weight will be being help by pretty small surface areas compared to locations where you have a lot of surface area.
One layer will make a minute difference, the more the merrier. Dependent upon how much you have I would suggest at least a second layer across the seams and the floor pan. A big note would be look for any areas that you can just tell will let sound in from the road, and go to work. For instance anywhere that parts enter into the cabin from the outside, like the transmission shifter and the brake handle area. Without a doubt a second coat is needed to start getting benefits, but over the years I have measured it, and you won't get more than about a 3Db boost from deadening.
Don't sweat it, you look to be doing a great job! I also dig deadening because it reduces road noise, and makes outside noise harder to hear inside, and your inside tunes harder to hear on the outside. I have always thought it cool to open a otherwise quiet car and hear a blasting stereo inside.
Way to go!!!
By up to window level I mean I have the dash out, so I am at the firewall and going up to the windsheild. For the doors, the easiest tactic is what I think you are working on- namely removal of the plastic weather barrier, and then replace it with a curtain of brownbread (I thing this is what you were doing). That is by far the easiest route, and will give you fine results. Get it to adhere to as much of the door frame and cross members as you can and roll those areas hard, because the brownbread does indeed weight a bit, and will that weight will be being help by pretty small surface areas compared to locations where you have a lot of surface area.
One layer will make a minute difference, the more the merrier. Dependent upon how much you have I would suggest at least a second layer across the seams and the floor pan. A big note would be look for any areas that you can just tell will let sound in from the road, and go to work. For instance anywhere that parts enter into the cabin from the outside, like the transmission shifter and the brake handle area. Without a doubt a second coat is needed to start getting benefits, but over the years I have measured it, and you won't get more than about a 3Db boost from deadening.
Don't sweat it, you look to be doing a great job! I also dig deadening because it reduces road noise, and makes outside noise harder to hear inside, and your inside tunes harder to hear on the outside. I have always thought it cool to open a otherwise quiet car and hear a blasting stereo inside.
Way to go!!!
#30
Originally posted by Dave Cameron
.. I also dig deadening because it reduces road noise, and makes outside noise harder to hear inside..
.. I also dig deadening because it reduces road noise, and makes outside noise harder to hear inside..
Thanks for all the advise! Tomorrow should be cooler and I shall resume my project. I also bought a trunk release kit and I am itching to install it. We'll see what happens...
I'll keep you posted.
Martin