Ok I bought a mint condition bazooka RS10hp with the control on ebay for 200 american. (there is no distributor in canada so those things are crazy expensive in canada).

So I have a couple of ideas for installation I would like to bounce off the audio freaks on the board.

idea #1 for sub location.
I have a really big elasticized (stretchy) cargo net that I use on my motorcycle. So I figure I can basically bungy the sub to the bottom of the deck (fiberglass cover for the trunk) in the back of my P5. This way the sub is isolated from bouncing over the rough roads and I keep all my floor space in the rear hatch. I can keep the woofer 3-4 inches from the side of the car as it specifies in the manual. Anyone see a problem with doing this sound wise?

idea #1 for the remote. This thing comes with a remote that is about 2x3 inches. On the stock HU there is a big plastic cover between the vol and tone ****. It looks like the perfect size to fit the remote into. How hard is it to remove the plastic cover cover and is there anything actually behind the cover? Hopefully you know what I am talking about.

Thanks for any feedback.
Stocker.

 

bastard.....mine costed me $600 new anyways here is where they put mine

sorry for the pic is so big........

 

Hi Stocker,

I bought an EL10hp on ebay about three months ago. There was a "buy it now" on the auction for $125. Brand new, original box, with warranty card. Works great so far.

It didn't come with a remote and I posted to this forum asking if anyone had made their own. Nobody responded so I took apart the amplifier and figured out what size potentiometer I would need and how it had to be wired to the 1/8" jack. For $5 in Radio Shack parts I made my own remote that works perfect. Better than spending $20 for the one from Bazooka.

Anyhow, I've been meaning to more permanently mount the remote (it is just setting by the e-brake right now). I'm guessing that Blue LEDz (posted above) has never taken that blank plate out of the HU. It is very easy to remove, just use a small flat tip screwdriver to pry it out. It is compression fit. There is nothing behind it bc this is where a factory tape player or MD player would reside. Take the plate off and you'll see what I mean.

My plan is to drill a hole in this piece for the shaft of the potentiometer to come through, secure the potetiometer to the back of the plate, and attach a **** to the front of the plate.

You have the remote that is already packaged in a box. You can take the ***** off the front and remove the two potentiometers from inside. Then reinstall them in the blank.

The "fins" on the back of this plate may make it difficult to locate the ****(s), but I'll cut or melt those away. (Grab a bolt with a pair of vice-grips, heat it up with a propane torch, and melt away unwanted plastic. This also works for making a hole, though drilling will leave a cleaner hole.)

I figure I may be able to get another blank plate (from dealer or someone else that has replaced their factory HU) if I wish to remove the remote at a later date.

As far as hanging the sub from the hatch cover... I don't think that would work. The sub is pretty heavy and I think you'd have a hard time securing it to the bottom of the cover with a cargo net.

-Aaron

 

Hey Blue

Aaron had it right. On the P5 there is a 4x3 inch plate between the vol and tone ****. THe rest of the radio is above these *****. I just needed to know how easily it came out. I doubt I will mount the ***** in the plate. I will probably just pull the plate and set the remote in the space. I will check the fit when I get the item.

Aaron, dude thanks for the info that is exactly what I was looking for. I just didn't want to start prying at stuff and breaking it.

I will try to hang the bazooka, but if it doesn't work I will put it in like nightowls.

Hey Nightowl how do you like your 10RS? Does it pound decently? Mine hasn't arrived yet. Also did you run a separate power cable to the battery?
Stocker

 

There is absolutely NOTHING behind that little plate - you could easily fit your remote in there. The plate blocks off the space where the cassette or MiniDisc module would go - without the module, the space behind the plate is wide open.

To get it out, use the tip of a very small screwdriver to pry at it - or you might even be able to push hard on one side, popping the opposite side out enough to grab it with a finger. It's easy, and requires no deck removal.

I would see if you can disassemble the remote, and mount the ****(s) to the plate. That would definitely be the best fit, and the nicest-looking, IMO. The plate has "ribbing" in the back of it to stiffen it, which could be in the way, but with a sharp knife, a Dremel tool, or even a really good pair of scissors, you could probably cut enough of the "ribs" away to leave a nice clear opening for mounting *****.

BTW - I have a remote **** for my Fosgate amps below the e-brake. It was an easy install - and the Fosgate remote comes out of it's housing for just this purpose - one screw, and the casing comes off, so all I had to do was drill a hole, slip the **** and little attached circuit board underneath and through, put the supplied nut on the **** stalk, and that's it. You should be able to do the same thing with your remote in that little plate, I would think.

~HH

 

The little damned space is there so you can add the overpriced modular cassette deck from mazda if you choose. Or use is as a stash for drugs. Or mount the ****. I mounted my remote bass **** in the center console and ran the wiring down though it. Easy and fast method. The pain of using the headunit would be how to dremill out all the backing to the false panel and still have it hold up at all, and how to route wiring so as to be able to pull ou the head unit and reinstall without pinching the cable.
Nothing impossible, but details.

 

Just to clarify a little - the "ribbing" in that little panel really serves no purpose. Yes, it stiffens the plate, but removing some of it will not affect the stability nor the durability of the plate itself. The morons who installed my alarm used it for the LED - but they did such a shitty job, I made the dealership replace the little panel, yank out the LED and give it to me to install myself. These guys actually thought that on a brand new car, I would accept an off-center mounted, crappy little LED light, with the hole drilled too big so the light housing was wrapped in 5 layers of electrical tape to hold it in place, and it was still loose. ******* "professionals" - jeez. BTW - I mounted a more flush-looking LED (from Radio Shack) in the gauge bezel. Much more visible, and at least I know how to pick the correct size drill bit.

Oh, and radio removal is not necessary if you wanted to thread a wire up to a **** mounted in that little panel. A wire could easily be reached from the side of the console - removing the glove box is the best access - and threaded up underneath the deck that way - or even threaded down from behind the plate area. No sweat, and no pinched wire. Mounting any type of accessory, be it a bass control ****, amp on/off switch, alarm LED, smoke screen switch, oil slick switch, turbo boost button like Knight Rider ........should be very easy to do in that location, without radio removal.

~HH

 

It might be possible, but would require some decent electrical knowledge if the amp does not have the feature already.

I know some amp brands have the remote adjustment - other's don't. The truth is, it's becoming a little less useful, now that many decks with subwoofer preouts have a level adjustment for them right in the deck itself.

The Fosgate remote does not control gain (which would basically be controlling volume - though you should (ideally) set your gains once and leave them alone) - it is like an equalizer. The **** boosts the bass centered at 45Hz by up to 18 dB (i think it's 18dB, anyway).

The deck controls are like controlling the sub volume, and are not a "boost" in a specific frequency range.

Some amps even have remote gain adjustment also.

The choices are ENDLESS!!

And the **** comes in handy - I use it frequently to tailor the sound a bit (or get a little "bump" when the right station happens to be on the radio ). I probably will use it less once I get my box to a better volume (meaning: more bass!) - and when I eventually upgrade to a deck that has better sound-shaping options.

~HH

 

Well, I don't know if I'd call it useless. For a sub, it's perfect. But you definitely don't want to boost the 45Hz range on smaller speakers. That's really at the low end of the frequency range for most speakers (even most subs), and will not be the right thing to do to a poor little 6.5".

 

Just incase anyone is still following this thread. The remote that comes with the RS10 bazooka is almost the exact width of the tracks that the ash tray runs on. If you pull out the ash tray, file 1mm off one side of the mounting bracket, it slides right in no problems. Looks like it was made to order.
Stocker.

 

kool to know, I will file the info away! Thanks Stocker!