I know there is Dynomate out there that you can use to get rid of the rattling...but as we all know that stuff ain't cheap!!!! So I was wondering if there was something tthat was less expsensive that would just as good of job!!!!!

 

many times rattling is 2 panels smacking each other around at thins dynamat can't fix. Its best to get some foam weather stripping and isolate the panels.

 

i've done that and it helped a bit but i've still got some rattles further in (i think around the door lock/handle mechanism). i was thinking of actually stuffing a bunch of foam around that area to stop it.

the rattles i've got don't seem like ones that dynamat would stop. the weather stripping worked quite well though.

 

Another issue i had was that the factory clip didn't fit tight on the securing peice of plastic so they would rattle a little. I hot glued those little bastards on. For the door locks I haven't noticed anything so I haven't crossed that bridge yet.

 

yeah, i foam taped around those too. seems to have killed them.

for every rattle i kill though, i hear two more it seems.

 

Foam! I'm disapoined in you.

I figured you'd just dump resin on anything that rattled.

 

just a side note but you should add the sub and size to your sig with the 148 db

 

Whne I RTA my MP3 the only spike was at 6.3K from the glass but that doesn't exactly help you out. I think 55 was the only slight raise in bass but that could have been subs.

Do you have the autosound test disk with every fq from 10 to 90?

 

The autosound disk are great for tuning and you can get all 6 for $60.

You need to make nice with that guy. Seems you always need something from him.

 

even if it doesn't help your current problem, you definitely should sound deaden your car...it can raise ur spl by 3db, it will make the sound quality much better, and it'll reduce road noise

but dynamat is wayyyyy overpriced

stuff that is the exact same as/better than dynamat extreme but for 1/3 the price or less:

b-quiet extreme: www.b-quiet.com ... easiest stuff ever worked with...very very sticky, so no heat gun/blow torch needed usually...if in 30 degree weather, may wish to use a hair dryer or heat gun for 5 seconds to increase stickiness (will need at least that for any deadener in very cold weather)...exactly like dynamat extreme

edead v2: www.edesignaudio.com .... while ur there, check out some of the best sql subs in the world ... the 60mm edead is what u want, and it's cheap...very good stuff

raamat: from other guys' link above .... very good stuff as well, and very cheap

cascade: not sure where to get...

peel n seal: from Lowe's roofing department... not quite as good as the rest of the stuff mentioned, but cheaper....sound deadener is basically just roofing material...dynamat didn't really "invent" sound deadener..they just sold and marketed roofing material as sound deadener successfully

do ur door panels, including the interior of them (reach in through holes to get to 2nd panel (outer most).... do ur trunk lid...do ur trunk sides behind the carpet...50-60 sq feet should be more than enough for ur car...

then u can worry about brake lights, license plates, mirrors, etc rattling

 

DAMN BLUE, you just can't get off of that Dynamat Bashing, can you. I am very happy with mine, and I got it off of Ebay for $75 for the trunk kit, but they give you a lot more than you need for the trunk, as long as you know what you are doing. I am gonna get into dynamatting the doors now that I am out of school, so we will see how that works out. Any updates on the fiberglass rear deck BLUE? Oh, and by the way, i broke the fasteners on the left side of the deck the other day, just like you said. Oh well, another thing to work on!

 

u should be happy with ur dynamat, as sound deadener is great

however, for that 75 u paid for ur trunk, i was able to get enough b-quiet extreme to sound deaden two cars

and these alternatives are the same material...it's not like dynamat is better...

and b-quiet extreme goes on much much easier and sticks better


dynamat is ok, but for the price, there is no reason to ever use dynamat, unless u can get 60+sq ft of the extreme for under $100

 

I have used 2 packs of dynamat extream at this point and can tell you that it doesn't seem to have done a damn thing. The doors are flimsy to the point they need to be structuraly reinforced. The rear deck rattles mostly with things dyanamat can't stop.

Dynamat is only a brand name they don't make those products at all they just get their named silked screened on them. YOu could find generic version to match it if you look hard enough.

All dynamt and compeating products do is add mass to lower resonance frequencies or restrict movemnet. For road noise a materali named Jute is more effective by far. Its a weird purple or green looking colection of various peice of wool and what not. Its used in most cars by the factory.

The proteges doors are so flimsy a simple peice of dynamat won't do for me so I will be welding in reinforcement for the midbass drivers. THe rear deck is pretty bad too.

 

i don't have any problems in my doors

i used lots of b-quiet extreme...i reached in the holes and did those internal panels (actually closest to outside) really well as well

and i put sound deadener on the wood adapter that i mounted my 6.5" on and behind the speaker

shut the doors and u can tell it's been deadened...

u don't need to reinforce the structure, u just need to apply the deadener in the right way...

 

For most people the doors will be fine wiht deadening but I am running 2 sets of 6 1/2s in each door that will be dedicated midbass drivers. So I need the door unyeilding.