choosing amp wiring kits
November-17th-2002, 08:36 PM
#1
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Posts: 94
choosing amp wiring kits
I was wondering if you need different types of wiring for different amps. I understand that you need certain gauge of speaker wire for your required wattage, but what about power cable for the amp? Are they all the same? Or do I need special gauge power wires for different amps?
Thanks
Thanks
November-17th-2002, 11:07 PM
#2
formerly chastan
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: California, USA
Posts: 2,350
I don't think you need to worry about the speaker wires, unless you have a really powerful system. But yes, there is a big deal about the amp power cable. I think 8 gauge wire is probably the most common for average systems, but I'm by no means an expert. Post what you think you want to do, maybe somebody can give you tips on what you'll need.
P.S. Is that the Rx-8 in your sig?
http://www.realultimatepower.net
P.S. Is that the Rx-8 in your sig?
http://www.realultimatepower.net
November-17th-2002, 11:52 PM
#3
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Ok im gonna finalize my amp selection then i'll post the specs on it. Thanks!
p.s. yes it is, i wanna kill for that car!!!
just look at this beast!
Also the rx-8's engine doesn't have pistons. It uses a 'rotary engine' which to me looks like a triangular piston-based concept except it rotates 360 around the crank shaft. Amazing stuff.
p.s. yes it is, i wanna kill for that car!!!
just look at this beast!
Also the rx-8's engine doesn't have pistons. It uses a 'rotary engine' which to me looks like a triangular piston-based concept except it rotates 360 around the crank shaft. Amazing stuff.
Last edited by mykg4orce; November-17th-2002 at 11:56 PM.
November-17th-2002, 11:59 PM
#5
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November-18th-2002, 02:44 PM
#6
Protege Owner
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: New Hampshire
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Yes the power wire kit will differ depending on your power needs.
Under 300 watts RMS a 8 guage kit is fine, 300-750 rms a 4 guage kit will do. After that you'll need 2 to 1/0 cable. Not to may kits actualy do this. These are all proper values you can run smaller wire but it will sacrifice power.
Speaker wire als needs to increase with power. Subs ususlay get 12 guage and door speakers get 18-16 for moderate power, stock is 20-22. I ran 14 to the doors though incase I end up realy pushing the midbasses hard.
Under 300 watts RMS a 8 guage kit is fine, 300-750 rms a 4 guage kit will do. After that you'll need 2 to 1/0 cable. Not to may kits actualy do this. These are all proper values you can run smaller wire but it will sacrifice power.
Speaker wire als needs to increase with power. Subs ususlay get 12 guage and door speakers get 18-16 for moderate power, stock is 20-22. I ran 14 to the doors though incase I end up realy pushing the midbasses hard.
November-18th-2002, 07:09 PM
#8
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Originally posted by 1st MP3 in NH
Yes the power wire kit will differ depending on your power needs.
Under 300 watts RMS a 8 guage kit is fine, 300-750 rms a 4 guage kit will do. After that you'll need 2 to 1/0 cable. Not to may kits actualy do this. These are all proper values you can run smaller wire but it will sacrifice power.
Speaker wire als needs to increase with power. Subs ususlay get 12 guage and door speakers get 18-16 for moderate power, stock is 20-22. I ran 14 to the doors though incase I end up realy pushing the midbasses hard.
Yes the power wire kit will differ depending on your power needs.
Under 300 watts RMS a 8 guage kit is fine, 300-750 rms a 4 guage kit will do. After that you'll need 2 to 1/0 cable. Not to may kits actualy do this. These are all proper values you can run smaller wire but it will sacrifice power.
Speaker wire als needs to increase with power. Subs ususlay get 12 guage and door speakers get 18-16 for moderate power, stock is 20-22. I ran 14 to the doors though incase I end up realy pushing the midbasses hard.
Rx-8
-this car is sick or what? i mean holy crap. Imagine a whole lot of those on the streets. So i can shove off the civics! hahaha!!! Does Honda even have a sports car? I mean Honda hasn't managed to win any races, poor engine development? I dunno/
November-18th-2002, 07:53 PM
#9
Protege Owner
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Oklahoma City OK- where it is flat
Posts: 487
Now you all need to read a little closer about the car before the RX-8, the RX-7 third generation. I have had one since new in 94 that is my baby (along with the protege which is being sold in December after my Mazdaspeed Protege arrives. It is the civic killer of all times, and is the sleeper of the supercar market along with the NSX. You can pick up a RX-7 on EBay these days for under 20K, and with another 6K or so, have a car nothing can touch! IN the RX-8 I am sure the suspension may look high but will be rock solid.
Check around on the internet about Guage for length charts. 8 or a 4 guage will be just fine. Speaker wire does not need to be increased dramatically. I have done judging of mobile audio, and I can tell you there is no sonic difference in the wire. That would be both the naked ear and with a RTA. It can be a point of pride for a owner though, so if you are willing to do the work (protege door molex is a challange to fit a larger wire) by all means do it!
I use Kimber Cable in the audio car, hooked up to three Mac amps, but that was also just for judging purposes.
Most high leve install does not have much place in a normal daily driver, and most high end install has problems in a daily driver.
Check around on the internet about Guage for length charts. 8 or a 4 guage will be just fine. Speaker wire does not need to be increased dramatically. I have done judging of mobile audio, and I can tell you there is no sonic difference in the wire. That would be both the naked ear and with a RTA. It can be a point of pride for a owner though, so if you are willing to do the work (protege door molex is a challange to fit a larger wire) by all means do it!
I use Kimber Cable in the audio car, hooked up to three Mac amps, but that was also just for judging purposes.
Most high leve install does not have much place in a normal daily driver, and most high end install has problems in a daily driver.
November-18th-2002, 08:02 PM
#10
Protege Owner
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Oklahoma City OK- where it is flat
Posts: 487
Originally posted by blue LEDz
OMG, welcome back dave
OMG, welcome back dave
That and Allsion was in the fall soccer league and I have been a soccer dad.
Last excuse- she got finally got a puppy this fall and is quite a handful!
I am still piddling in the shop, just winterized the RX-7 and am preparing to return my Protege to as close to stock as I care to before the Mazdaspeed shows up.
Trust all is well with you, the installs are the easy profitable ones, and you are selling lots of periphials!!
Dave
November-19th-2002, 12:21 PM
#12
Show Layne some respect
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Long Island,NY
Posts: 2,458
mykg4orce:
Head over to www.knukonceptz.com for wire - excellent prices, excellent products. No need to spend massive amounts of money on wire - and KK's stuff is as good as any for damn good prices.
And the numbers stated above for wattage vs. wire gauge are a fine guideline. I'd say that you can run up to 1000 watts on 4 gauge, but I'm no expert - and larger is always safer, and safer is always better!
You *might* want to consider using the next gauge up from what you really need - saves time and money on future upgrades.
For example - say you put in a sub right now, and run 8 gauge wire. Then down the road, you get a great deal on a two or four channel amp for the interior speakers - you'll most likely need to then run a new, thicker power wire for the two amps. But if you put in 4 gauge to begin with, all you'd need is distribution blocks (splitters) to hook the new and old amps to the existing power and ground wires.
Oh yeah - and your ground wire should be at least the same gauge as the power wire - NOT smaller. FYI, just in case.
~HH
Head over to www.knukonceptz.com for wire - excellent prices, excellent products. No need to spend massive amounts of money on wire - and KK's stuff is as good as any for damn good prices.
And the numbers stated above for wattage vs. wire gauge are a fine guideline. I'd say that you can run up to 1000 watts on 4 gauge, but I'm no expert - and larger is always safer, and safer is always better!
You *might* want to consider using the next gauge up from what you really need - saves time and money on future upgrades.
For example - say you put in a sub right now, and run 8 gauge wire. Then down the road, you get a great deal on a two or four channel amp for the interior speakers - you'll most likely need to then run a new, thicker power wire for the two amps. But if you put in 4 gauge to begin with, all you'd need is distribution blocks (splitters) to hook the new and old amps to the existing power and ground wires.
Oh yeah - and your ground wire should be at least the same gauge as the power wire - NOT smaller. FYI, just in case.
~HH
November-19th-2002, 10:08 PM
#13
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Hey i hadn't thought of that, actually that is a very good point. I saw a distributor block at best buy and I know exactly what you mean. Thanks!!
I am abit confused about the remote wire tho. Does it get spliced into the HU wiring harness like the Line Convertor does?
I am abit confused about the remote wire tho. Does it get spliced into the HU wiring harness like the Line Convertor does?
November-19th-2002, 10:44 PM
#14
Show Layne some respect
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Long Island,NY
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Remote wire is used so that your amps turn off or on along with the HU - if you shut the car or the deck off, the amp(s) also shut off.
If you are using the stock HU, you'd want to hook this up to a switched source - something that goes on and off with the ignition. It's not supposed to be the best place, but I know the Mazdas' cig lighter is not on when the car is off, and is a convenient place to attach a remote wire. I've done this many times before with no problems - but supposedly it can cause noise and interference (I have never experienced this though). You can also use relays, and/or signal sensing relays to accomplish the same thing - I've never used either of those.
If you're using an aftermarket deck, it will either have a wire labelled "remote" or you will use the "power antenna" wire - either of those will work properly. Most often it's blue or blue with a white stripe on the deck's wiring harness.
~HH
If you are using the stock HU, you'd want to hook this up to a switched source - something that goes on and off with the ignition. It's not supposed to be the best place, but I know the Mazdas' cig lighter is not on when the car is off, and is a convenient place to attach a remote wire. I've done this many times before with no problems - but supposedly it can cause noise and interference (I have never experienced this though). You can also use relays, and/or signal sensing relays to accomplish the same thing - I've never used either of those.
If you're using an aftermarket deck, it will either have a wire labelled "remote" or you will use the "power antenna" wire - either of those will work properly. Most often it's blue or blue with a white stripe on the deck's wiring harness.
~HH
November-19th-2002, 11:50 PM
#15
Protege Owner
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: New Hampshire
Posts: 720
If you need the remote wire from a factory head unit it gets spliced into the ignition wire. Every aftermarket head unit has a remote wire. It will be blue unless there is also a seperate power antenna wire in which case it will be blue/white.