It's not hard to put 6.5's in the 5x7 hole in the front doors. I believe Scosche makes adapter plates to fit, but I made my own from 1/2" MDF. Very simple if you've got access to a drill and a jigsaw (I actually used a scroll blade on a big old Sawzall - a little bulky, but it worked fine).

I've got an RF360.2 also man - I use it to run my front separates (they're RF Fanatic Q woofers and Infinity tweeters - a bit of a hodge-podge, but it sounds great). I also have a 10" Punch HX2 sub (I'm liking your taste), running off of an RF 500s amp. It's a strong sub, but my install is not great - my box is WAY too small, and the output isn't that great.

Okay - I helped you with the front speaker thing - help me with my sub! What kind of box are you planning on using? Pre-fab or are you going to build it (or have it built)? I really need some help before I build a new box for the HX2 - I want to keep it sealed, but get more oomph from it - without buying any more equipment. With 500 watts, I'm sure my unimpressive sound is due to a poor box.

So let me know how yours turns out, or what kind.size box you plan on mounting the sub in. BTW - (just making sure) did you get the DVC 2 ohm HX2? You will need it with the 360.2 amp - it cannot run 2 ohms bridged (what you'd get with the DVC 4 ohm coils wired parallel), so the DVC 2 ohm (coils in series) gives the 4 ohms the amp needs to be safe. I ask because I had to search to find the DVC 2 ohm model.

Keep me informed on your HX2 install - I'd appreciate it.

~HH

 

Yes, the front speakers in the P5 are 5x7s. 6.5" round speakers can fit with a bit of work. Hihoslva should be able to help

If you get the SA68 speaker adapters from Scosche, it will allow you to fit 5-1/4" round speakers easily in the 5x7 hole. But will need a bit of modification with a dremel if you want to fit in a 6.5"

 

Hihosilva,
I don't have the dimensions in front of me, but I followed RF's specs for the volume size. They recommend .75 cubic feet of volume for that sub. On their website they have a calculator that works really well. You input what type of RF sub you have, the thickness of wood your using, and how much room you have to work with. Then it'll give you the dimensions your box should be. You can then change the dimensions to make the box the shape you want.

Follow this link:
http://www.rockfordfosgate.com/2002home/
then click RF Tech, then click Volume Calculator. I'd give you a direct link, but their site isn't set up in a way that allows this.

My box (sealed) and woofer sound great. I was surprised at how small the sealed box turned out to be. I actually keep the gain turned about halfway down, and same with the bass boost control. My previous car is a 72 bug, so it's small which helps the bass. You need to be sure to keep a seal, especially when mounting the speaker. I used screws, wood glue, and silicone caulk (edit note: I only used screws to mount the sub to the box, no glue or silicon was used in mounting the sub to the box). I also top mounted the sub (it was much easier that way).

If you have the correct amount of air volume, then your box probably isn't sealed correctly. That's where I'd start off with trouble shooting.

I'll get you my box's dimensions as soon as I get the chance.

About my wiring:
I did get the 2ohm model. I wired it with a 4ohm impedence. I followed RF Tech's instructions. You basically wire a positive terminal to a negative terminal on the speaker. Then wire the positive from the amp to the currently unused positive terminal on the sub. Do the same for the unused negative terminal. So you end up with a positive hooked to the positive on the amp. A negative hooked to the negative amp. And a positive on the sub hooked to a negative on the sub. It looks like you've already researched this, though.


Thanks for the advice on the front speakers. I'll probably end up putting my 6.5" seperates in back, and get some 5.25 seperates for the front, with the adapters.

 

Thanks for the info - I know my box is WAY too small for good output (sealed, about .4 cu/ft after driver displacement - VERY small). I have some space limitations, and I built the box to fit the space I have. But if I can re-do it using fiberglass and truly contour it to the side of the hatch, I can get a LOT more airspace. It is well-sealed now, but just too damn small.

Good to know that it will sound nice once I get the box up to proper specs. I have my gains almost maxxed on the 500s - and the output from the sub is wimpy! No - there's nothing wrong with the amp or sub - it's just this stupid tiny box. Seeing as how you have the gains about halfway on the 360 with the same sub, I can only imagine the vast improvement I'll get from a proper-sized enclosure.

If you's like to see my "space-limited" setup, click the link in my signature.

Thanks again for the info - you've inspired me to finally get off my *** and get to 'glassing! (well, maybe tomorrow )

~HH

 

Yeah HH,
I was really surprised at how good the sub sounds. It must be the dimensions, because like you said, your amp is similar but more powerful, and the sub is the same. Your setup looks nice and clean. I like how you mounted the amps and stuff.

I'm going to put the sub back there, but have it sort of floating around, because I need to put the seats down for my surfboard and stuff like that.

Let me know how it turns out, if you end up building a new box.

Later,
Wheels

 

Sorry about pic size, but this is the system I am planning on putting in my P5 in teh near future.

Pioneer DEH940MP HU


Kicker 700.5 5 Channel Amp (40x4+200x1@4 ohms)


Front Speakers:
MB Quart Reference Series RSC216 6.5" Components


Rear Speakers:
MB Quart DKC116 6.5" Coaxial


Subwoofer:
Kicker Solobaric L5 12" 4ohm DVC
in Sealed custom box utilizeing the Spare tire well.

 

hiho, go custom man, not pre-fab! if space is an issue, do what i did, and build a higher box, but more shallow depth wise. i got 1.55cuft for my 12" powerplant and took up a small amount of hatch space.

i think it was around 15" high, 33" long? (can't remember) and about 12" deep. these are not the exact numbers but approximate, give a or take an inch or two.

 

Custom is the only way I can or will go. What I need to do is 'glass the passenger side of the hatch, and build a box out from that.

My current box is like a "power wedge" laid on its edge - but it's VERY shallow and VERY limited on airspace - it fits well, but doesn't contour well to the panel in back of it, and I lose a TON of possible airspace.

One day I will get off my lazy butt and 'glass the damn thing. Until then I am stil trying to read all I can about techniques and tips on this type of work.

But - it's really good to know that once I get the right space, my sub will pound like I always thought it should.

Like they say: It's all in the install.

~HH