Groundkit in
#1
Groundkit in
Well, today after having a hectic day at work I come home and find a surprise at my door (no naked woman, sorry guys). I got my wires from Knuconceptz and my battery terminals. I went with blue because I am going to do the engine dressing in blue and perhaps chrome. Only problem is, is that it is probably right at or over 100 degrees outside if you factor the humidity! I may have to put it off for the weekend so I can do it early morning. Hey Blue, if this doesn't work, I know where you live bud!! Ha ha, kidding of course. Thanks for pointing them out to me I am hoping that this will do the trick since the alternator is hard to get too. Then I can play some tunes with out my headlights slightly dimming. If you guys are in Charleston, SC and see a car with dimming lights and a loud system (Protege of course), then you probaby see me Hopefully this will put an end to the dim.
MiStErT
P.S. I know, wrong forum.
MiStErT
P.S. I know, wrong forum.
#3
Originally posted by R2Di2Dc2Do
cool, keep us post on the install, and DONT FORGET PICS!! lol
cool, keep us post on the install, and DONT FORGET PICS!! lol
MiStErT
#5
It depends on the power your using <how much> and the class amps you are using. Some one with the same amount of power that I have may not have the problems that I have. My amps are Class A which are <or at least were> the best sounding amps, but the most inefficient amps as well. They are designed to double in power every time you add speakers to it for competition. It's almost like cheating. My amps are rated at 25 watts x 2 on the Class A3.0 which actually is putting out around 75 per channel (RMS) at 14.3 volts and the Class A6.0 is rated at 50 watts x 2 channels, which is bridged putting out 600 watts (RMS). If I competed, I would be in the 150 watt class even though I am getting roughly 900 watts RMS.
Back to the dimming, because they are class A, they tend to draw more current from the electrical system. I beefy alternator would do the trick, but is also expensive. I have been advised to use a ground kit and perhaps upgrade wires to the alternator if dimming persists. Let's just hope you don't have the same problem (it is a pain in the ***)! With todays amps, I would probably go with a Class AB for the highs and a Class D for the lows. Much more efficient and probably little loss in SQ. I only got the SoundStreams because I worked at a shop that sold them. The company wants people that sell their products to have their **** so they can show people and word gets out. I was getting the stuff at 60% below retail. Kenwood had an even better deal (you could buy a competition system for around a few hundred bucks). Only Alpine didn't participate <at least back then>. There are incentives working at a stereo shop, but at the same time, you end up seeing new stuff come out every year and you blow all your income on stereo equipment! Before you know it, you are like the guy on the movie Old School <the owner of the stereo shop>, owning every gadget both home and car audio/video.
MiStErT
Back to the dimming, because they are class A, they tend to draw more current from the electrical system. I beefy alternator would do the trick, but is also expensive. I have been advised to use a ground kit and perhaps upgrade wires to the alternator if dimming persists. Let's just hope you don't have the same problem (it is a pain in the ***)! With todays amps, I would probably go with a Class AB for the highs and a Class D for the lows. Much more efficient and probably little loss in SQ. I only got the SoundStreams because I worked at a shop that sold them. The company wants people that sell their products to have their **** so they can show people and word gets out. I was getting the stuff at 60% below retail. Kenwood had an even better deal (you could buy a competition system for around a few hundred bucks). Only Alpine didn't participate <at least back then>. There are incentives working at a stereo shop, but at the same time, you end up seeing new stuff come out every year and you blow all your income on stereo equipment! Before you know it, you are like the guy on the movie Old School <the owner of the stereo shop>, owning every gadget both home and car audio/video.
MiStErT
#7
I went to the how to area and am having a hell of a time crimping this thing down. First off, the wire is thicker than the terminal even though they are 4 gauge, I have it crimped down, but the wire inside still can move a little. I am worried about vibrations of the engine rattling the wire loose. I forgot how much of a pain in the *** it is to crimp 4 gauge wire to a terminal. So much fun when doing so with the amp. That was about 3 or 4. I have to do this 16 times (one for each end)?! Seems like it would be best to crimp as best as you can, then soilder the S.O.B. to the terminal. Any suggestions?
MiStErT
MiStErT
#8
Or do like I did...and use a bfh and pound the terminal into submission. Actually I did use a regular hammer and hammer the crimp closed. It is not the prettiest but the rubber cover will cover it up anyway and they are tight!
#9
I used the "How To" method on www.msprotege.com and did 7 all together and my right palm hurts like hell!!! I want to finish the job, but I figured I got half done (one was bad, so 6 total), and now I have to do 5 or 6 more. There is an art to it, once you get 3 or 4 done, but by that time, your hand is killing you. I used the hammer method when doing the rings for grounding the cap and on the power wires from battery to cap now that I think back. They are pretty snug. I don't think they will shake loose. I'll use wire ties close to the connections to take any strain from the ring terminals. I got the their terminals which will hopefully fit the thin battery posts. I may get a bigger battery a little down the road. Rider, did you do your power wire to the alternator yet? I know you are so looking forward to that!
MiStErT
MiStErT
#11
How many horses with just the mods that you have? I know this isn't the forum, but I am thinking of getting an AEM short intake and perhaps replace the spark plug wires some time before year 2100!
MiStErT
MiStErT
#12
though trying to combat a problem with a/c, i am attempting this install today, possibly with an optima redtop battery, we'll have to see. should definately help my dash lights from dimming HALF WAY when driving with the a/c on anyway, good luck bud. i'm aiming for a homebrew groundwire kit figuring on 4 or 8 gauge... 5 wire design, with battery terminal.. money permitting. wish me luck as well
peace
peace
#13
I just hope you don't use the standard crimpers. Now that my hand has recovered, I can finish the job this afternoon and put it in Friday. I am just doing my own, no kit, but just a do it yourself pain in the asser.
MiStErT
MiStErT
#14
Originally posted by blue LEDz
a little tip for crimping terminals on 4 guage or bigger wire is to use a vise grip. it worked wonders for the 1/0 i did crimp down one side a little, then crimp the other over it, and then go back to the first side and then back to the top side, etc, till they are totally snug
a little tip for crimping terminals on 4 guage or bigger wire is to use a vise grip. it worked wonders for the 1/0 i did crimp down one side a little, then crimp the other over it, and then go back to the first side and then back to the top side, etc, till they are totally snug
MiStErT
#15
Originally posted by blue LEDz
a little tip for crimping terminals on 4 guage or bigger wire is to use a vise grip. it worked wonders for the 1/0 i did crimp down one side a little, then crimp the other over it, and then go back to the first side and then back to the top side, etc, till they are totally snug
a little tip for crimping terminals on 4 guage or bigger wire is to use a vise grip. it worked wonders for the 1/0 i did crimp down one side a little, then crimp the other over it, and then go back to the first side and then back to the top side, etc, till they are totally snug
MiStErT