kicker is a good choice

Danny

 

My car will be gone for three days

My JL XR653-Cs are being installed kick panel style..

300/2 JL pushing them with and Eclipse 5303 Dead Face.. I have started, now you best watch out..

Pics will arrive soon!!!!

 

How did the Injen intake do in your P5? Is it worth the price or is the AEM a better value? Also, if you check on www.sounddomain.com, you can look up cars with specific brand of whatever you are looking for (amps, speakers, etc.). Hope that helps. All I have are front speakers including midbass in the doors as well as subs. I am not sure on getting any 6X9s to drop in the back for rear fill or not.

Michael

 

Kick panels are done!!..

Sounds Grrreeaaatttt!!!!

The installer actually told me it is one of the best sounding installations he's done in awhile.. The imaging is phenominal, sounds good with whatever music you decide to play too.

I would recommend kick panels to anyone on here, Q-form does NOT make a kick panel for our cars, only a universal. Which I wouldn't recommend or use. But that is my opinion.

JL Audio speakers sounds great, and the power is more than enough for them.

 

Pssssst.......got pics?

~HH

 

I will get pics soon. Still need to clean car up before I take pictures.. Hopefully this weekend, if it's nice here.. sick of the rain..

Sucky thing is, I got black carpet on the kick panels for right now, and they were built to be very durable.. So carpet and a very STRONG mesh grill was used..

They are NOT the best looking kick panels in the world, but sound GREAT, and look descent and will take on many can's of WHOOP ***!!

I'll get pics soon..

 

Funny, I just my car back from the shop and was having Kick Panels built also. Imaging and overall sound quality is great. It is like the Proteges were made for kick panels. I will post some pics of mine tomorrow as it is too dark outside now.

 

Hey Rider69,

Just a quick question.. I know you have sound deadened your whole car.. But what is the best tool to use on the panels like in the hatch area to get the plug/pins out without busting them and keeping them reusable..

There is a special tool isn't there??

If so, can I get it at a part store?

I will be deadening my whole hatch area with brown bread (2 layers in most areas) this weekend. competition season baby. I pick up my HO12W7 thursday, and get my amp today..

 

Just about any car that has the space benefits from the use of kickpanels. The issue is always how much room am I willing to give up, and then be careful about boots and wet feet!

The other nice thing about kickpanels is if done right- they can be removed and the car is about back to stock. Good for resale purposes and very few aftermarket car audio installs actually increase the value of a car on the open market.

 

totally agree with Dave on this one..

You'll all see when I get pictures this weekend that my kick panels are not going to win the trophy in shows (looks) but they sound phenominal, and they did NOTHING to stop appearance of car. Simply unscrew and remove from vehicle.

Of course, the lucky buyer would recieve lots of brown bread in the doors and factory speakers, well I don't think factory would go back in.. I had all new 12AWG pulled to ever speaker from crossovers and factory wire removed..

I know many people think I'm crazy for pulling 12AWG, but hey I'm pumping a good 150+ to each side, 22AWG wouldn't handle it. 16AWG is just cutting it, I wanted to be safe..

Dave what do you think for a rear sound stage? NONE.....

 

I'm not Dave - but I'm going to speak on the rear soundstage!

Most SQ people seem to agree that rear fill is just that - fill. In essence, it ruins the staging and imaging you work so hard to get up front and center, by pulling your ears toward the sound also emenating from the rear of the car.

In my P5, I have had an amplified front stage (and sub) only for quite some time, and have been very happy with it. I ran the rears off deck power - just for the hell of it - and the fact is, they are soooo overpowered by the fronts, I never even noticed they were there. Good stuff.

Anyway - I am now (right now, as a matter of fact!) working on my next setup. I am going to utilize the rear doors for mid-bass fill, rather than full range. I'm using a set of Peerless 6.5" midbass drivers, and I'll be powering the front and rear with a 4 channel amp. Intended crossover points are high-passed @ about 100-200 Hz for the fronts, and low-passed at 400 for the rears. I know this will give me some frequency overlap, but since I've always found the mid-bass to be the most lacking part of my system, I think the overlap will do me some good.

I have a feeling that this setup is going to work out quite nicely for me. Understand, however, that I have not really worked very hard on the staging in my car. My front components are in factory locations, and the tweeter is mounted just above the woofer in the door panel, angled up. I tend to compensate for staging by just getting pretty loud! But clean and loud, of course.

I hope to have everything installed today, including my fiberglass sub box that I've been itching (no pun intended!) to hear powered up.

I'll report back on my experiences with the midbass in the rear doors. But I think it's going to be a great way to utilize the locations, yet not yank the sound to the back.

Stay tuned!

~HH

 

That is what I'm thinking of doing as well. Just mid-bass in the rear so you don't really kill the imaging from front.

Totally agree with you there.. I'll push probably 75W to the rear mid-bass then.. It really doesn't matter when there are passengers in the rear anyways, hell with them on hearing perfect sound.. If they want it, they can do it their vehicle right?

I'm the one that has to be satisfied..

Do you think 8" Mid-bass could fit in rear door?

 

Well, anything CAN be done, but.....

It's gonna take some pretty good mods to do that. Even my 6.5" Peerless aren't a drop-in - the baskets are too big. I had to make some adapters to fit them. No biggie - but 8's will not be an easy task, IMHO.

I'd love to see it though! You will wind up cutting out some sheetmetal, and that metal is not one flat surface - it's got some stamping to it. Overall, I think it would be one helluva project.

I've got my Peerless in the car now - next step is installing the new amps, and then the sub box. Ugh - I think I left my socket set in the wife's Jeep, and I really need it. Gonna have to improvise a bit, I think.

I will report my thoughts on the 6.5" midbass as soon as I'm up and running. I dunno about 8's though. With some planning and a lot of work, I'm sure it can be done. Personally, I wouldn't go through the trouble.

~HH

 

you could always make a fiberglass box for the doors, using the same idea as your hatch, with the rings and supports, and if you don't have enough clearence, just cut the door panel and make a custom panel to fit over it.

 

That could all be done, but you know what.. I seriously don't think it would really be worth all the work. i'd put them somewhere else before I'd go through all that work.. Like um maybe a custom box on floor in front seat area.. That would be quite extravagent but hey it could be done..

I think just stick with 6x9 or 6.5" in the rear door..


Let us know how it hears..

later..