Should I Dynamat my P5?
#1
Should I Dynamat my P5? System Recs?
Hey guys,
I just got my P5 a little over a week ago and am starting to piece together what I want for my sound system. I have used dynamat before in my previous vehicle which was a 1996 Nissan Pickup, and I have gotta say it helped in there. My question for you all is, would it be worth it to dynamat all four doors in my P5?
I found a place online where I can get the bulk dynamat extreme bulk pack for $109 (see http://shop.store.yahoo.com/mobile-e.../noname71.html ) This is enough to do all four doors and even double layer or put some someplace else in the car. I can do the install of it myself so installation costs aren't a factor.
Just looking for an estimation of will I get a decent sound improvement with Components up front and upgraded 2 or 3 ways in the rear doors running on off an alpine v12 amp. Thanks for opinions.
I just got my P5 a little over a week ago and am starting to piece together what I want for my sound system. I have used dynamat before in my previous vehicle which was a 1996 Nissan Pickup, and I have gotta say it helped in there. My question for you all is, would it be worth it to dynamat all four doors in my P5?
I found a place online where I can get the bulk dynamat extreme bulk pack for $109 (see http://shop.store.yahoo.com/mobile-e.../noname71.html ) This is enough to do all four doors and even double layer or put some someplace else in the car. I can do the install of it myself so installation costs aren't a factor.
Just looking for an estimation of will I get a decent sound improvement with Components up front and upgraded 2 or 3 ways in the rear doors running on off an alpine v12 amp. Thanks for opinions.
Last edited by jrodhotrod; September-25th-2002 at 08:28 PM.
#8
Okay, So I gather that Dynamating (or similar) has real benefits, and it's not all hype. My next question for you all is. When you did your dynamat, did you just do the side of the door that the interior trim attaches to, or did you do the other parts of the door as well? (the area that is the outside edge, back of the inside edge) Tangible benefits for a non-competition sound system to justify the extra expense? Also should I seriously consider doing the roof and floor in my Pro5? How difficult is it to get everything out on this car without a moon roof? how long would it take me by myself to do, doable in a Saturday?
I take my music very seriously and what it sound as good as possible within my means. For your information the system that I am looking at right now is without model numbers
upper end XM/MP3 Alpine head unit Either CDA-7894 or CDA-7995 (if i can get the cost down on 7995 I really like the silver in the Pro 5 dash and I wouldn't have to run that seperate power lead that the Alpine 7894 requires since there is no amp in the 7995 head unit)
Alpine R Series 6.5" Components front doors (SPR-176A) Also considering JL Audio XR 570-CSi (price would be about $90 over the cost of the Alpine R series components from my dealer, without install costs on either of them)
Alpine 6.5" 2 ways in the rear doors (SPS-1729S)
Alpine VR series Amp for 4 door speakers (MRV-F340)
Rockford Fosgate sub-Amp
Maxxbling Custom 12" enclosure
Seriously considering the edesign (or something like that, I saw it mentioned here) sub or my Auto Dealer was going to set me up with a Rockford Fosgate HE series.
Further questions include, if I get the sound deadining my dealer would install it on all 4 doors at the same time as the rest of this install for an extra $50 in labor. Worth it?
With this set-up would I need to worry about a Capacitor for the sub in this vehicle (my gut says no, but I am not 100%)?
Is the stock speaker wiring going to adversly affect my sound? In my previous vehicle, a '96 Nissan pickup, I dragged monster speaker cable from the amp to the doors, but that was a much easier install. Basically with this power level will I be okay if I just use the factory wiring?
Thanks for all the help you guys, definetly going to check out some of the dynamat alternatives. If you have opinions on anything let me know
I take my music very seriously and what it sound as good as possible within my means. For your information the system that I am looking at right now is without model numbers
upper end XM/MP3 Alpine head unit Either CDA-7894 or CDA-7995 (if i can get the cost down on 7995 I really like the silver in the Pro 5 dash and I wouldn't have to run that seperate power lead that the Alpine 7894 requires since there is no amp in the 7995 head unit)
Alpine R Series 6.5" Components front doors (SPR-176A) Also considering JL Audio XR 570-CSi (price would be about $90 over the cost of the Alpine R series components from my dealer, without install costs on either of them)
Alpine 6.5" 2 ways in the rear doors (SPS-1729S)
Alpine VR series Amp for 4 door speakers (MRV-F340)
Rockford Fosgate sub-Amp
Maxxbling Custom 12" enclosure
Seriously considering the edesign (or something like that, I saw it mentioned here) sub or my Auto Dealer was going to set me up with a Rockford Fosgate HE series.
Further questions include, if I get the sound deadining my dealer would install it on all 4 doors at the same time as the rest of this install for an extra $50 in labor. Worth it?
With this set-up would I need to worry about a Capacitor for the sub in this vehicle (my gut says no, but I am not 100%)?
Is the stock speaker wiring going to adversly affect my sound? In my previous vehicle, a '96 Nissan pickup, I dragged monster speaker cable from the amp to the doors, but that was a much easier install. Basically with this power level will I be okay if I just use the factory wiring?
Thanks for all the help you guys, definetly going to check out some of the dynamat alternatives. If you have opinions on anything let me know
Last edited by jrodhotrod; September-25th-2002 at 08:56 PM.
#9
Skip the RF HE sub. Everything I hear is that they are garbage. I have a Punch HX2, and it's soon to be gone - swapped for two Infinity Kappa 100.3 dvc 10"s. The RF subs just have no sound quality. The HX2 line (Punch and Power can do some decent SPL, but they still have bad SQ. And the lower lines (Punch z, HE, etc) just basically do nothing well. Skip 'em - even if they are free.
And Blue - gotta disagree a bit. Over 50 watts per door is still just fine on stock wiring. I run 90+ with no trouble at all. Maybe 150+ would require an upgrade, but below that, there is no audible benefit at ALL to re-wiring the doors.
~HH
And Blue - gotta disagree a bit. Over 50 watts per door is still just fine on stock wiring. I run 90+ with no trouble at all. Maybe 150+ would require an upgrade, but below that, there is no audible benefit at ALL to re-wiring the doors.
~HH
#12
On the Dynamat
okay, lets say I take the plunge and decide to Dynamat (or equivalent) the whole car. It spends a lot of time outdoors during the day time when I am at work and what not, and it can get to be over 100 degrees in the summer here. Should I be concerned about how well it will stick to the roof of the car? Any chance it could come off and start putting pressure on the headliner?
Thanks again, this is a great forum and I am really enjoying my Protege5 so far.
Thanks again, this is a great forum and I am really enjoying my Protege5 so far.
#13
When installed properly, Dynamat is about as permanent an installation as you can get.
I've never used it, but I know that you are supposed to clean the area VERY well, and heating the adhesive on the Dynamat helps it to stick better. Then you are supposed to use a laminate roller to really set the stuff, and work out any and all air bubbles.
I'm sure others here can fill you in better - but this is stuff I have read. If done properly, you should not have to worry about your installation for quite a few years.
~HH
I've never used it, but I know that you are supposed to clean the area VERY well, and heating the adhesive on the Dynamat helps it to stick better. Then you are supposed to use a laminate roller to really set the stuff, and work out any and all air bubbles.
I'm sure others here can fill you in better - but this is stuff I have read. If done properly, you should not have to worry about your installation for quite a few years.
~HH
#14
Originally posted by douggie
Sky's the limit when it comes to dynamat
Check this out.
That's a freakin good install.
Sky's the limit when it comes to dynamat
Check this out.
That's a freakin good install.
The only issue I have seen is that the adhesive is not as good as the "real" stuff (Dynamat, Brown Bread, and RAAMat).
Very good stuff for floors, probably okay if installed well on doors, but I'd stick with the good stuff for doing anything "upside down" - like the headliner, trunk lid, etc.
I dig the way the guy did both sides of the interior door skin, allowing the two sticky sides to touch through openings in the metal. That ougtta hold, huh?
~HH
#15
Originally posted by hihoslva
Yeah - that Peel & Seal stuff is not a bad alternative for a low-budget sound deadening.
The only issue I have seen is that the adhesive is not as good as the "real" stuff (Dynamat, Brown Bread, and RAAMat).
Very good stuff for floors, probably okay if installed well on doors, but I'd stick with the good stuff for doing anything "upside down" - like the headliner, trunk lid, etc.
I dig the way the guy did both sides of the interior door skin, allowing the two sticky sides to touch through openings in the metal. That ougtta hold, huh?
~HH
Yeah - that Peel & Seal stuff is not a bad alternative for a low-budget sound deadening.
The only issue I have seen is that the adhesive is not as good as the "real" stuff (Dynamat, Brown Bread, and RAAMat).
Very good stuff for floors, probably okay if installed well on doors, but I'd stick with the good stuff for doing anything "upside down" - like the headliner, trunk lid, etc.
I dig the way the guy did both sides of the interior door skin, allowing the two sticky sides to touch through openings in the metal. That ougtta hold, huh?
~HH