Hi all! I'm a long-time lurker who's decided to come out from the shadows because I recently purchased a brand-new 2002.5 Protege ES. The only thing I dislike about the car is the sound system (like many of you here), so I'm going to upgrade soon.

I'm also a car audio newbie who's been inspired by the success stories on this forum to install his own system. To that end, I need a little input on what I'm planning. Keep in mind I'm going for an improvement in SQ over stock, not trying to win competitions.

Here's the components I'm thinking about using. I want to keep my stock HU for security reasons.

Front speakers: JBL GTO625 6 1/2
Rear speakers: JBL GTO935 6X9
Subwoofer: Infinity BassLink
Amplifier: JBL P80.4 or Alpine MRP-F200

I've heard great things about the P80.4, but it doesn't have a preamp out to feed the BassLink. Since I'm using speaker-level inputs for the 4-channel amp anyway, would it be feasible to splice off of the wires and to send the signal to the BassLink (which also has speaker-level inputs)? Would this cause any degradation in SQ or other problem?

Or should I just chuck the idea of using the P80.4 and go with the Alpine (which has a preamp out) and run a short RCA to the BassLink?

Thanks for your help!

 

RainyPro....hello and Welcome to our happy little corner of the net, and to our Club. There are TWO BIG fridge'S in the corner with anything you can think of in them...help yourself...of course only take what you can LEGALLY have.

make yourself at home on one of the big fluffy couches, kick your shoes off, put your feet up on one of the tables, yes we are allowed to do that, mom don't care....and take it easy.

oh...btw....every once in a while a food fight breaks out...so you may not want to wear nice clothes here.

Welcome!!

As for your selection of Audio equipment.....for starters....I personally would pass on the sub you chose....I don't care for the bandlink set up..... I have a preference for JL Audio....they have what they call their POWER WEDGE....its a sealed box with the sub of your choice in it....

I have done the very upgrade you have done, kept my stock head unit and did all the door speakers (I have a P-5) and added a sub....

I used the Alpine V-Power amp....but I got the 320....which is the 5 CHANNEL model....and ran the sub off of it as well. I used a JL Audio 10W0 in their power wedge configuration.....I love it....and it can still thump pretty hard if you care for it too.

 

a) i'd go with different components...what is ur price range?
b) i'd ditch the rear speakers...rear speakers are redundant, as music is in stereo (2 channel, not 4, 6, or 12 like car makers want u to think)...spend the money to get twice as good of a front comp set
c) definitely a different subwoofer...if on budget, look into adire shiva (mine hit 140 db at the dash on 300 watts in a sentra in a sealed box) or elemental designs...
d) i like jbl amps for subs (jbl 600.1 running my shiva) but not for speakers...go with us acoustics...get a 50x4 us acoustics (about $185 at crutchfield with warranty, or cheaper elsewhere online w/out warranty) and bridge that to power ur front set...use a jbl 600.1 for ur subs....if u want 1 amp only, then get a 100x4 amp and bridge rear 2 channels for sub (will give close to 300 watts then) and then use the front 2 channels for ur front speakers...definitely don't go with alpine amps, either


let me know ur budget and i'll help u buy a very very nice sq system that hits 140+db as well...

 

Thanks for the replies; maybe it would help if I clarified my major priorities:

1) Spend less than $700 total.
2) Ease of installation. That is, keep cutting and drilling of holes in my new car to a minimum.
3) Preserve as much cargo space as possible.

While I'm somewhat picky about how it sounds, I know I'm not too hard to please. Hell, I ran a crappy Jensen sub (I know, I know, I was a broke & naive college student) in my last car.

That's why I considered a component system up front but settled on coaxes with aimable tweeters: I know I'll be happy with the lesser of the two options, and it's easier to drop in.

Sir Nuke: What is it exactly you don't like about the BassLink? Just curious, since it seemed like it would fit my needs pretty well. I'd definitely consider the JL Audio option, though, if it doesn't take up too much space.

 

The basslink has little "thump" to it. Don't get me wrong, it adds nice warmth, and really does a great job of balancing the system and adding bass, but it just doesn't hit hard at all. Not the setup to choose if you want to feel the kick drum beat in your back. But - it IS a nice choice for modest bass, for a good price - and it's tough to beat the small size of it without building a custom fiberglass enclosure.

It depends what you really want from your system.

One piece of advice I can give, is buy the MOST you can right away - spend all you can afford. Because if you wind up unhappy, it'll cost you three times that to change it all - and I should know! Research your choices very well - re-doing a system gets expensive!

For the interconnects, consider using line-level converters. These units will change your speaker leads into RCA cables, so you can then split them for two amps. I'm not 100% sure about the ramifications of splitting the speaker wire to run two amps, but you should be safe if splitting RCAs after the converters.

I'm gonna post that question for you over at CarSound forum - we'll see what those who know more on the subject have to say about it.

~HH

 

Hmmm... much food for thought.

Took a look at Sir Nuke's JL Audio Powerwedge, and it isn't THAT much bigger than the BassLink, so between those particular options, space isn't too much of an issue. Heard good things about it elsewhere- that it delivers tight, clean bass while still hitting pretty hard. I think I lean more towards the balanced sound side of the equation, but it would be good to have some "thump" in reserve in case I want it.

If I went with a 5-channel, it would also simplify things a bit by letting me worry about wiring only one amp (and not messing with distribution blocks, etc).

Sir Nuke, are you using the CS110R-W0? Where'd you get it and how much did it run you?

Thanks for the insight and help, folks.

 

u don't need a 5-channel amp

get a 4 channel amp

channel 1: front left
channel 2: front right
channel 3/4 bridged: sub (4x power of 1 channel)

 

A 5 channel is better since it has a mono channel already optimized for subs, the bridging channels to x4 the power only works on some models and the alpine and JL aren't one of them.

COnsidering I am the one that helped Nuke decide on the equipment he used, Just suggest some similar stuff, you can imagine my opinion.

A 5 channel is the easiest way to improve the performance of the system. If I were to use it I would run the 4 channels bridged to 2 channels and power the hell out of the front speakers. I would replace the fronts with a good 6.5" component and either leave the rears alone or replace them with the same series of speaker but a 6.5" coaxle. I Like the sub Nuke used alot but I might go for a different option. The Basslink licks ballz!

Lets do some math!
Alpine 5 channel amp, $250
Amplifier wires, $50
Sub in box, $170
Speakers BA or JL, $300 for either 2 sets of coaxles or 1 set of components.

 

RainyPro, as luck would have it...my local car audio shop happens to be both an Alpine and a JL Audio distributor...thus I got all my stuff from them....it probably cost me a total of $20 more getting it local....but that saved me a 150 mile drive...and all the time and gas money to make a trip to the big city....

as for Price...the CS110R-WO cost me $165. when you consider the price of a good quality box...and add in the cost of the sub...its a wash....and who better to build the box for THEIR sub...than JL themselves.

This sub, with only the 125 watts going to it from my 5 channel Alpine amp hits plenty hard....and at the same time can and does fill in that nice mellow base....BUT...there are specific tunes I have that the bass coming from that sub litterly vibrates you to the very bone......and I love it.

the total I spent on MY system is right at your limit you mentioned....the $700....I think my total was $680. that was without any install...I did all the work myself.

 

You sound like a Sound Q guy who just wants a better, more balanced sound. Here's my thought. You're working with a small budget ($700) so get the amplified Bass Link. The "Thump" you might hear is because somebody used hi level (speaker level) inputs and no remote lead. Use low level (rca) and a remote lead and "thump" goes away. Next, a small 4 channel amp (personal recommendation, Memphis Power Reference 4400, $269.99) and some good coaxial 6.5's. I recommend using all 4 speaker's because, like you said, you're after sound quality, not competition. Use the crossover points on the amp to adjust the speaker's. Hi-pass for the fronts and full range for rear's for some mid-bass response. Speaker recommendations: Fronts-Memphis Power Reference PR62s. Rears-Kove KXS 6.5 Compaxial. The Kove's are great for the midbass and the Memphis are crystal clear for the high end.

 

TooLo - his issue is that he'll be using the stock deck - no RCAs. And a good set of converters can set the budget back another $50-$70. I think the "thump" we keep speaking of is "thumping" bass, not a "turn-on" thump from a sub.

Okay - RainyPro - according to some sources I've checked, you will do FINE by patching the speaker wires to both a 4 channel amp and the basslink, should you go that route. Just run all four sets of wires to the four channel, and then take one pair (probably just the front or rear, I'd suggest the rear) and connect to the basslink. All you'd have to do is hook up the input wires to the 4-channel, then attatch an extra set of wires to both rear input terminals (they will still catch the signal from the stock deck) and run them to the basslink. This would be the same as actually splitting the wires, but makes a more solid and neat connection.

The basslink has a current-sensing turn on circuit, so if the stereo or car is off, and no juice is flowing through the stock speaker wires, the basslink will shut off. You might want to consider looking for a 4-channel that'll do the same thing, oitherwise you'll need to find a 12v switched source for the remote wire (cig lighter is a common and easy choice - it's off when the car is off = amp's off when the car is off, too).

But - I must say I think a 5 channel amp and better sub than the basslink would be nicer for you. Nuke did his homework before buying or installing any components, and it sounds like he got a great system for right around your budget. You might just want to follow his lead.

And I hope you plan on installing stuff yourself! Install can take a few hudred right out of your budget, and that sucks - especially when the work really is so easy to DIY.

~HH

 

Oh, I'm definitely planning to do my own install. I've had the "professionals" do it before, and haven't been impressed. The only person I trust to tear apart the interior of my 4-week-old car is ME.

Besides, I'll learn so much more doing it myself!

I've pretty much been talked out of the BassLink... my bro has the very sub I was looking at (JL 10W0-4), and it sounds damn good even without a tuned box (ala Powerwedge).

Been looking for a place to check out some of the more obscure brands like Memphis, Kove, etc, but it's hard finding dealers in the area.

Getting close to making the leap! Thanks again for all your input. Great community around here.