What's a good price for this install?
#16
My system
Hi!
Here is what I will have to install
- One Cobalt CO-465 (AMP)
- JL Audio 10" 10W6 (Double voice coil) Ported cabinet
- One Pioneer [don't remember part number] 4x65 mosfet
- MB Quart 6 1/2 Woofer + Nakamichi Tweeters using Nakamichi passive crossover
- Kenwood KDC-7700
- Phoenix Gold EQ 16 Band with crossover
And to answer your question :
I will run a 4 gauge wire from battery (be sure to fuse with at least 50 amp fuse, I use 65 amp, because I drain 55 amps peak) the 4 gauge wire will power a 1.2 farad capacitor (Good thing to do, that will improve you system response especially bass response) and from the capacitor I'm running 8 gauge wire to each amp and I use little one (don't know the gauge) to the EQ, that doesn't use a lot of power.
Remember, when installing your Head Unit to bring the power antena down to your amp, this will be needed to switch your amp on and off. Some RCA cable have a little wire between the two big, it can be used for that purpose.
I hope this help!
But I have the same problem as you! I don't want to screw my brand new car... But the stock head unit and speaker SUCKS!
In my old Civic I was using the A/C hole, since it wasn't equiped with it. I wan't to know where to get the 4 gauge though the firewall I have A/C, Cruise, well every thing possible but manual transmission.
And my other question, where to get the "right" tool to remove the stock head unit ??? Can any one supply a picture of it ???
Thanks In Advance
MageMinds
Here is what I will have to install
- One Cobalt CO-465 (AMP)
- JL Audio 10" 10W6 (Double voice coil) Ported cabinet
- One Pioneer [don't remember part number] 4x65 mosfet
- MB Quart 6 1/2 Woofer + Nakamichi Tweeters using Nakamichi passive crossover
- Kenwood KDC-7700
- Phoenix Gold EQ 16 Band with crossover
And to answer your question :
I will run a 4 gauge wire from battery (be sure to fuse with at least 50 amp fuse, I use 65 amp, because I drain 55 amps peak) the 4 gauge wire will power a 1.2 farad capacitor (Good thing to do, that will improve you system response especially bass response) and from the capacitor I'm running 8 gauge wire to each amp and I use little one (don't know the gauge) to the EQ, that doesn't use a lot of power.
Remember, when installing your Head Unit to bring the power antena down to your amp, this will be needed to switch your amp on and off. Some RCA cable have a little wire between the two big, it can be used for that purpose.
I hope this help!
But I have the same problem as you! I don't want to screw my brand new car... But the stock head unit and speaker SUCKS!
In my old Civic I was using the A/C hole, since it wasn't equiped with it. I wan't to know where to get the 4 gauge though the firewall I have A/C, Cruise, well every thing possible but manual transmission.
And my other question, where to get the "right" tool to remove the stock head unit ??? Can any one supply a picture of it ???
Thanks In Advance
MageMinds
#17
Re: My system
Originally posted by MageMinds
Hi!
Here is what I will have to install
- One Cobalt CO-465 (AMP)
- JL Audio 10" 10W6 (Double voice coil) Ported cabinet
- One Pioneer [don't remember part number] 4x65 mosfet
- MB Quart 6 1/2 Woofer + Nakamichi Tweeters using Nakamichi passive crossover
- Kenwood KDC-7700
- Phoenix Gold EQ 16 Band with crossover
And to answer your question :
I will run a 4 gauge wire from battery (be sure to fuse with at least 50 amp fuse, I use 65 amp, because I drain 55 amps peak) the 4 gauge wire will power a 1.2 farad capacitor (Good thing to do, that will improve you system response especially bass response) and from the capacitor I'm running 8 gauge wire to each amp and I use little one (don't know the gauge) to the EQ, that doesn't use a lot of power.
Remember, when installing your Head Unit to bring the power antena down to your amp, this will be needed to switch your amp on and off. Some RCA cable have a little wire between the two big, it can be used for that purpose.
I hope this help!
But I have the same problem as you! I don't want to screw my brand new car... But the stock head unit and speaker SUCKS!
In my old Civic I was using the A/C hole, since it wasn't equiped with it. I wan't to know where to get the 4 gauge though the firewall I have A/C, Cruise, well every thing possible but manual transmission.
And my other question, where to get the "right" tool to remove the stock head unit ??? Can any one supply a picture of it ???
Thanks In Advance
MageMinds
Hi!
Here is what I will have to install
- One Cobalt CO-465 (AMP)
- JL Audio 10" 10W6 (Double voice coil) Ported cabinet
- One Pioneer [don't remember part number] 4x65 mosfet
- MB Quart 6 1/2 Woofer + Nakamichi Tweeters using Nakamichi passive crossover
- Kenwood KDC-7700
- Phoenix Gold EQ 16 Band with crossover
And to answer your question :
I will run a 4 gauge wire from battery (be sure to fuse with at least 50 amp fuse, I use 65 amp, because I drain 55 amps peak) the 4 gauge wire will power a 1.2 farad capacitor (Good thing to do, that will improve you system response especially bass response) and from the capacitor I'm running 8 gauge wire to each amp and I use little one (don't know the gauge) to the EQ, that doesn't use a lot of power.
Remember, when installing your Head Unit to bring the power antena down to your amp, this will be needed to switch your amp on and off. Some RCA cable have a little wire between the two big, it can be used for that purpose.
I hope this help!
But I have the same problem as you! I don't want to screw my brand new car... But the stock head unit and speaker SUCKS!
In my old Civic I was using the A/C hole, since it wasn't equiped with it. I wan't to know where to get the 4 gauge though the firewall I have A/C, Cruise, well every thing possible but manual transmission.
And my other question, where to get the "right" tool to remove the stock head unit ??? Can any one supply a picture of it ???
Thanks In Advance
MageMinds
If your installing in a new Protege you shold have a large gromment in the fire wall the the right of the master cylinder which you can fit anything through, I have 1/0 going through mine.
you can actualy use a cote hanger to remove the radio or buy a ford radio removal tool through crutchfield and they are carried at some auto parts stores.
#18
Is this the correct HU adapter?
http://www.sounddomain.com/sku/SCOMA1537B
Also, if you click the link, you notice that the wire harness recommended is MA03B. Do these both look like what I need for my P5?
Dre recommended the adapter MA1537 as well as the harness MA03, but this one has a "B" at the end of it. I imagine they're the exact same thing as what Dre recommended, but I'm just trying to make sure it's exactly what I need before I order it.
Thanks.
http://www.sounddomain.com/sku/SCOMA1537B
Also, if you click the link, you notice that the wire harness recommended is MA03B. Do these both look like what I need for my P5?
Dre recommended the adapter MA1537 as well as the harness MA03, but this one has a "B" at the end of it. I imagine they're the exact same thing as what Dre recommended, but I'm just trying to make sure it's exactly what I need before I order it.
Thanks.
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