Okay, I have my system figured out (finally) with all the help and looking around. Now I just need to know what kind of wiring to use (ex. 4 gauge, or 10 gauge, etc.)
Here's my setup:

Panasonic CQ-DF402U
Lanzer Vibe 3-way crossover
(x4) Pioneer 6.5 speakers (4 ohm, 30rms)
(x2) Rockford Fosgate 10" subwoofers (4 ohm, 100rms)
300watt amp for speakers
360watt amp for subwoofer

I already know what RCA cables I'll need to connect the HU to the crossover and then to the amps as well as speaker cables between the amps and speakers. What I need is what kind of power cables I should use as well as fuse sizes, size of a cap, etc. for the amps and crossover. All the power cables, basically, which is where I'm a newbie at. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

 

http://ccs.exl.info/frame_installation.html

 

http://www.eatel.net/~amptech/elecdisc/wire.htm

 

as far as brand, i recommend Stinger cables

 

i would buy from here
http://www.knukonceptz.com/

 

Go with 4-gauge wire, get a distributor block and get 8 gauge for ur 2 amps...

Oh and don’t forget to send a ground from ur battery to ur chassis and block.

 

and a ~60 amp fuse

 

ampage depends on how much the amps are going to pull

 

Agreed, and of course u need fuses in the distributor block too.!!

 

why??? its cheaper to fuse either the main line or the individual lines rather than get a block with fues in it

 

You would need 3 fuses in anycase. One that separates you main line from the battery. Then every time you split the main line into another one (in this case 2) you need a fuse on each line.

Im talking about a Distributor Block that has the fuses built in. That makes a super easy install. And clean too.

p.s. the whole point of the Block is to make your main line easily accesable by smaller guage wire. Just how the hell do you suggest we tie 2 4-guage wires together?? You, indeed need a distributor block.

 

i didn't say you didn't need a block, you just don't need a block with fuses for $$$ sake. the only reason you would need 3 is if you had a second battery. you could run only one fuse for the main line. or you could get a breaker for however many amps you need (they run about 30 bucks and can hold alot. and just attach the power rings to the breaker and you wouldn't need a block. they usually start around 80 or 90 amps.

i agree that the fused blocks are a cleaner install but its more expensive that way. esp the street wires block that has the power and ground tied together but it runs around 100 bucks.

 

Hey, all.. Sorry for not thanking you all sooner for posting replies, I've been busy with a few things and haven't had time to work on my sound system. So, Thanks!
I did have one question... or two:
First off, MyKG4orce, you said

...4-gauge wire, get a distributor block and get 8 gauge for ur 2 amps...

does that mean use the 4-ga cables to connect the battery to the dist. block and then 2 8-ga cables to the amps? Also, do I want to just run a ground from each amp (obviously 8-ga each) or do I want to run a ground from somewhere else?
Just to add on more confusing stuff, anything special about hooking up the power for my head unit? Is it just a power line and ground like the amps? Same thing for a crossover I'm hooking.. I'm just wondering if I can put all four (HU, x-over, and 2 amps) into one distributor block... Thanks again!

 

The whole thing can be confusing, not to worry.
4-guage wire is from a purely technical point of view a touch heavy, but thanks to our friend Mr. Resisitence a good pick.
Yes!- you want to run the 4-guage from the battery to the distribution block. Make sure to put a master fuse on the line, within 12 inches of the battery if you can.
The distribution block, well- extra fuses are flashy, and nice, but not an absolute in a fundamental two amp install. Use 8-guage to the amps depending- some amps have wiring clamps that will fit a 4-gauge, others only 8-guage, while ohters have a cheesy little wire you will be splicig into on way or another. Larger is nicer, at least to look at. Try to find wire that has as many strands as you can, like thousands of strands. There are actually only a dozen or so companies that manufacture this stuff in the world, and then resell to all sorts of folks who then lay claim to major unique differences....
Grounding- use at least 8 guage for the ground, and keep it as short as possible! Many folks seem to like using the bolts that hold the seatbelts in to make the ground plane, it seems to work well. Manufacturers sell grounding distribution blocks also, if you want to continue on a snazzy looking set up, but the cost is not really required.
You are touching on a topic of car audio- star topology- that is should all power come from one location, and all ground go to one location. I used to be very big on this type of install myself as a point of pride, however some science and common sense took over!
If one runs a big power wire to the rear, and then sends power back to the front, you have doubled the length of the run, and doubled the cost, but most importantly doubled the resistence of the wire run! No, run the headunit off a seperate positve line.
Same for grounds. In automotive the whole car is a ground, and the most powerful ground plane avaliable, so why mess with a good thing? In earnest, you can tie all grounds together somewhere but you might introduce ground induced feedback, and there is the little issue of resistence again!
Depending upon where to set the crossoever, you bet you can tie it into the distribution block to nice looks, and an easier install. You are setting up an infastructure when you install the wiring and blocks that gives flexability and room to grow. I think of it as akin to the first house on the block, someone has to run out a utility structure like gas, electric, water, sewage. It is a pain in the butt for the first house, but a breeze for anyone else moving in later!
For the size of the amps the extra fuses are not vital, but nice. I have often fused no less than three times going to amps by including the fusing that comes with the amp. There is a lot to be said for getting fuseing close to the amps themselves.
Sorry to run on, and good luck! Let us now what you decide on, and how the install goes...

 

Thanks a ton, Dave! Your post was VERY helpful, and don't worry about running on... all the information is always great. With all that information, I think I have figured out a plan for wiring everything, but I want to run it across you all to make sure it looks good. I'm creating a box for the back for my subs and for a place to mount my two amps plus the cross-over. The headunit will, of course, be up front in the console. With that in mind, here is what I have planned:

Head unit will connect itself directly to the battery (and grounded to the car.)
Will run a 4-ga power cable from the battery to the back of the car where it will connect to the distribution block. That then will seperate to two 8-ga cables to each amp. I'd like also to run a power cable to the cross-over from that distribution block. Each unit itself will then be grounded to the car. I plan on putting a fuse near the battery on the 4-ga cable and then a couple in the distribution block also.

My next (and hopefully last) will be this: the fuses, what sizes should they be? (the master one and the two in the distrubution block). Also, the dist. block I'm getting is a 1x4-gauge in and 4x8-gauge out (and holds 2 fuses.) Will I be able to hook my cross-over to this, and if so what gauge cable should I use, you think? And, is there anything else I'm missing? Thanks again, VERY MUCH!!