I am about to order this engine from a wrecked car injapan he is sending me the entire car to convert to a 5 speed.. 1820 dollars..
this engine redlines at 7000 and has 163hp at 6800 rpms...
i think the compression ratio is 10:1:0 if i remember right..
i plan on puttin headders and cold air intake. wich will bring it to to about 180 to 190 hp..


will a turbo dramatically effect this engines performance.. stock this engine is as fast if not faster than the speed protege.


bythe way i have a 2000 protege lx with Shogun body kit and enkie rims. a few othe minor upgrades..

www.cardomain.com/id/shogunprotege

 

I believe that the compression is too high on the FSZE pistons to allow for enough boost to make it worth while. Unless there is something done to the engine I highly doubt that it makes that kind of power either. I believe the ZE makes in and around 160hp crank and thus would make considerably less whp. Guess in the 130-135 whp range. A nice jump as long as the ECU is still intact. I/H/E should help you a bit but not to the almost 180-190hp range. If you were to add a turbo I would suggest swapping the pistons for DE or better yet some JE pistons with a 8.5:1 to hold some nice boost levels.

 

agreed, also $1800 for the whole car shipped from japan? sounds fishy to me. Ususally someone would pay that just for the engine and then have to front up about $200 shipping. A whole car should cost no less than a grand to hip overseas.

 

Hey if you can get the car for that cheap by all means get it and you should be able to sell some parts that you wont use to make up the difference and get all your stuff for free

 

Ok lets clear something up...the FS-ZE powered Familia or Sport20 is not as fast or faster than a MSP...the MSP is currently the fastest production BJ chassis mazda...you can turbo the FS-ZE but it will require very serious fuel control...however Headers and a CAI will NOT bump it up 20hp....youll be lucky to get 10 total...are you getting the J-spec ECU also?? better hope the Tranny is good too because the FS-ZE will not mount to your F series gearbox...if you wanted to stay NA you could deck the head, port and polish and do a 5 angle, add CAI, Headers,and a Cat back and you'd be faster than a stock MSP...but a MSP driver would still have a prettier and better handling car and all he'd have to do is up the boost

 

Why wouldn't it bolt up to the tranny? Its the same engine with a few different parts. I agree though adding a turbo with eth HC from the ZE is just not worth it

 

read carefully....he has an LX which has a 1.6L using the F Series tranny....the FS-ZE which is similar to the FS-DE that uses the G series tranny and they are not interchangeable

 

yeah i plane on oversizing my pistons before i turbo it.. and i was wrong about the compression ratio it is 10.5.1

i found this site that has everything u want to know about a protege engine trany and basically the car you cshould check it out...
these are the specs from the turbo and and fsze engine




These are the some of the differences
turbo fsze
6500 redline at 170hp 7000 redline at 163hp
160 lbs/ft @ 3500rpm 131 lbs/ft @ 5000rpm
compression ratrio
9.9:1 10.5:1


looks like yall were right look at the recommend thigns to do when installing the engine
I am getting a FS-ZE engine for my 3rd generation Protegé, are there any tune up
parts that I can get before installing the engine?
There's not much you can really do, but you can get Mazdaspeed pistons and
an exhaust cam which are meant to go with the FS-ZE. A heavy duty Mazdaspeed
thermostat is also available (see general info page). You may also want to bolt on the
MazdaSpeed chromoly flywheel before installing the engine also.

First thing pistons then thremastat

lol well it will be a major upgrade from the stock 2.0 l and i will dust most of the civics and proteges that are in my town

here all the specs on all of the 2.0l versions
2.0 liter engine:
Type: FS-DE
Displacement: 1991cc
Cylinders: 4
Valvetrain: DOHC 16 valve
Horsepower: 130 @ 6000rpm
Torque: 135 lbs/ft @ 4000rpm
Bore & Stroke: 83 x 92mm
Compression Ratio: 9.1:1
Induction Type: Natural
Redline: 6500rpm
Alternator output: 12V, 80A
Ignition type: distributor-less coil pack
Fuel system: Multipoint EFI
Manual Transmission type: G15M-R

2.0 liter engine:
Type: FS-ZE
Displacement: 1991cc
Cylinders: 4
Valvetrain: DOHC 16 valve
Horsepower: 168 @ 6800rpm (163 @ 6800rpm for MY2002.5-2003)
Torque: 131 lbs/ft @ 5000rpm (128 lbs/ft @ 5000rpm for MY2002.5-2003)
Bore & Stroke: 83 x 92mm
Compression Ratio: 10.5:1
Induction Type: Natural
Redline: 7000rpm
Alternator output: 12V, 80A
Ignition type: distributor-less coil pack
Fuel system: Multipoint EFI
Manual Transmission type: unknown


2.0 liter Turbo engine:
Type: FS-DET
Displacement: 1991cc
Cylinders: 4
Valvetrain: DOHC 16 valve
Horsepower: 170 @ 6000rpm
Torque: 160 lbs/ft @ 3500rpm
Bore & Stroke: 83 x 92mm
Compression Ratio: 9.1:1
Induction Type: Turbo
Redline: 6500rpm
Alternator output: 12V, 80A
Ignition type: distributor-less coil pack
Fuel system: Multipoint EFI
Manual Transmission type: G15M-R (w/LSD)


the site has cleared up alot of the misconseptions about these engines..

 

just looked up prices on mazda speed pistons and they are 10.1:7

the fsze pistons are 10.5:1

whats the difference

 

.4:1? higher

 

hahaha, I wish I could warn enough about the dangers of high compression and high boost. I've got a garage full of Pinto pistons and rods that wished I had done my homework first!

 

High compression and turbo can be done...its not the same as some old POS pinto...newer engines have better tolerances and can deliver fuel more efficiently....you can definitely run turbo on an FS-ZE with AWESOME results...it just takes careful planning on the fuel maps.....low compression on a turbo isnt BETTER, its just EASIER!!!!

 

MUCH easier.

 

Very much easier. Plus boost levels will be considerably lower and tunning will have to be far more accurate. As before teh turbo you are already running the risk of detonation with a bit of bad gas or just lower octane.

 

You are right, it can be done.

But who wants to run 3-4 psi on a car that already has 10.5:1 compression?

It's not worth it in MHO. You spend to much to get mild results at best. And you won't make nearly as much power with less compression and more boost.