Can i NOS an 11.9.1 compression motor
#16
The engine block and head are IRON in case yall forgot, no aluminum honda bullshit here. it can take a lickin and keep on tickin!
Engine Block: Cast Iron
Cylinder Heads: Aluminum Alloy
-Jerry
#17
get some drag radials and get rid of the nittos. Get some 16" or 17" light weight wheels and put drag radials on 'em. Short of stripping the interior I agree with the underdrive pulleys and the lsd. The LSD is a big one. I don't think you should be running in the 13s though. The ITR doesn't even run that. You can't expect better than the ITR yet. You don't have as much HP or weigh as little as it. That should be your target. 200 HP and 2500 lbs. Did you drop the spare tire for the ¼ mile runs?
#18
Originally posted by jstand6
Ummm... From Mazda's website on the Protege5:
Engine Block: Cast Iron
Cylinder Heads: Aluminum Alloy
-Jerry
Ummm... From Mazda's website on the Protege5:
Engine Block: Cast Iron
Cylinder Heads: Aluminum Alloy
-Jerry
-not Jerry
at least the block will last, lol
#20
Jesse, a few months back we used to talk a lot, and how I was about to get the higher compression 10.7:1 pistons. You then suggested me to get a stand alone to squeeze even more out of. Going solely based up what we talked about, you stated that I could have pushed into 13's if I was lucky.
Now this guy is pushing an 11.9:1 CR and it's nowhere near? Maybe we both learned something more, but I always trusted your knowledge and it seems to have changed now. Care to enlighten me?
Now this guy is pushing an 11.9:1 CR and it's nowhere near? Maybe we both learned something more, but I always trusted your knowledge and it seems to have changed now. Care to enlighten me?
#21
The haltech is certainly capable of running the nitrous and high compression. What you need to look into is your fuel injectors and fuel pump.
On the PWM output screen, switch it over to NOS Switch and check out the different settings, you can have it retard timing, stage from a seperate load point, rpm on and off, coolant temp on allowance.... Its not hard to hookup.
As for your tuning issues, do you have any dyno sheets with A/F ratio's vs RPM with TQ/HP? With your setup, you should be running on 104 octane and putting down a lot more than 180whp. I think you need to get it on a real dyno with a good wideband and load level tuning. Shoot for the correct A/F ratio's throughout the powerband and play with timing after that.
If you want me to take a look at your maps, go ahead and send them to my e-mail and I will see if I can help. Also send some datalogs of WOT runs in 1-2-3, idle, and cruise.
bltspecv@socal.rr.com
On the PWM output screen, switch it over to NOS Switch and check out the different settings, you can have it retard timing, stage from a seperate load point, rpm on and off, coolant temp on allowance.... Its not hard to hookup.
As for your tuning issues, do you have any dyno sheets with A/F ratio's vs RPM with TQ/HP? With your setup, you should be running on 104 octane and putting down a lot more than 180whp. I think you need to get it on a real dyno with a good wideband and load level tuning. Shoot for the correct A/F ratio's throughout the powerband and play with timing after that.
If you want me to take a look at your maps, go ahead and send them to my e-mail and I will see if I can help. Also send some datalogs of WOT runs in 1-2-3, idle, and cruise.
bltspecv@socal.rr.com
#22
its possible to run nos on high compresion motor for not only couple times.my friend has a celica gt-s and that is also high compresion motor somewhere in 11:1 ratio.hes runing NOS wet system 50 shot and only problem with runing higher shot is a fuel system.celica has no return line so is hard to instal aftermarket fuel pump.also u got costum pistons they should be stronger than stock so that is a plus.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
zorlac7
1st gen/323/GLC Engine and Drivetrain
2
October-24th-2003 12:36 AM
Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)