Finally got the car to the Dyno Friday and the little 1.6L with a turbo put out 147.8 whp and 158.7lbs of torque at 6lbs of boost air temp was in the high 90s with 100% humidity at about 100feet above sea level. With just CAI and high flow exhaust was 87hp. Try tuning it to 8lbs of boost but the clutch couldn't take it so I need to get a heavier pressure plate for the clutch before running more boost. FYI with a universal adjustable fuel pressure regulator running about 42 psi I Dyno’d at 133whp then we installed the Vortec 12:1 FMU I got the 147.8whp. The track sucked because of the slipping clutch; first run was no good, second I got a 16.08 after babying it until third gear and then the slipping and burning started at full boost around 4500rpms.

SO if your turboing your Protégé get the check valves right, get an Vortec FMU, and upgrade the clutch pressure plate or the boost you produce will be of no use!

Here it is dyno chart with before and after installing the Vortec FMU. It was a about 98 degress out with 100%+ humdity at about 100 feet above sea level.

 

DUH!!!!!!!

Im glad i have a switch for my 75 ponies, lol, I probably wont need a new clutch as soon as you did.

 

cool deal biknman!!! how much did the Vortec unit cost you and how did you hook it up?? is this a replacement for your ecu or does it just run your injectors?? I plan on turboing mine with the unit that Braden @ Barely Legal Transplants is making,but he says i need my own fuel management,so I'm trying to figure out what i'll use...also just for ***** and giggles what does this translate to hp @ the crank??? btw check with SR motorsports,they have your heavy duty clutch!

 

p.s....just to thumb my nose @ all the 2.0L out there that ride us 1.6'ers...biknman your stock internals will handle that boost way better than a 2.0L will...so yours(properly tuned) will last longer than one of these guys with a BEGI or Tripoint Kit...and for the guys who aren't ribbing us 1.6ers,no offense

 

DOWN WITH THE 1.6!!!!!

lol, sorry, i didnt realize how negative my last post sounded, good job on the turbo and all

147 to the wheel? me, you, tomorrow, I-10, oh wait, nm, ill be waiting on forged rods for a lil bit, doh :/

 

macdaddyslomo

The Vortec FMU $140 is a FPR (fuel pressure regulator) that uses boost /vacuum to adjust the amount of fuel pressure, it raises the fuel pressure level about 12 psi for every pound of boost. To install it you just place inline with the fuel return line from the fuel rail after the stock fuel pressure regulator and T into a vacuum line some where. It's kind of like holding the excess fuel from going back to the fuel tank by increasing the amount of pressure it akes to get past it to the fuel tank. But note if the MAP sensor see the boost the ECU will cut the fuel all together not sure if it does this by cutting power to the injectors or the fuel pump. Here the Vortec site with better info: http://www.vortechsuperchargers.com/...ries/fuel.html


I figure the stock injectors, fuel pump etc is good for up to 11lbs of boost at which the other drive train parts would start to fail do to the increased power they are not designed to handle.

My next staged upgrades are 700cfm puller fan to pull air though the IC, water injection system to cool intake air temps and to spray the IC down and a J&S safe guard system to protect my engine. I've got a buddy that road races and AutoXs like me and has the same setup to include the water injection and he gained a 100hp just from the water injection and it makes boosting the motor a lot safer under the conditions I'm butting the car though on the road course. More info on water injection here: http://www.aquamist.co.uk

FYI Also a big resection in our 1.6L is the intake manifold I believe if you are turboed. Built into our intake manifolds is a bunch of fuel economy crap called variable tumble control system or something like that. What it is a is a system on check valves, sensors, and solenoids that at either low or high rpms open or close flappers via and actuator that cause more or less air volume in the combustion camber or the intake manifold its self. Bunch of useless crap restricting air low if you ask me. So my next big upgrade this winter is a custom log style intake manifold with short runners and a bored out the throttle body. See a good article on it here: http://www.sdsefi.com/techinta.htm. The guys road racing the Protégés in the SCWC have also come to this conclusion and soon will be offering an intake manifold for 2.0s for around like $1500 via AWR or Tripoint built by Sunbelt Motors.

 

one other thing,how did you set up your check valves to fool the MAP sensor??? I dont want fuel cut out at boost...thx for your help...figured while im saving money for my gear I can get the kinks worked out by talking to someone who's already been the guinea pig

 

Check Valves tow before the MAP selinod and one in between the MAP selinod and the MAP sensor.

Check out the lastest photos of my setup

 

forgive my stupidity, but what did you use to make the check valves and point them out in the picture for me please. thanx alot biknman..youve been the most helpful so far in my quest to go turbo!! again thx a lot!!

 

would getting a complete ECU replacement allow you to get rid of check valves entirely? i know that thxbrett (or at least the company he used to work for) is making custom ECU's for Pro's.

 

I would say yes since the check valves are needed to fool the stock ecu...you can program the Haltech or whatever you are running to accept the MAP reading boost I would assume...either that or I think you might be able to eliminate the MAP all together and use an aftermarket MAF with the Haltech...somebody get Braden(turboge)..he'll know...actually our 1.6L guinea pig biknman will probably know too....

 

Well presented engine bay! Looks like some serious stuff. I am so freakin jealous!

 

The stock sensor is not set up to see pressure much above atmospheric. If you go to a stand alone, you will need to remove the stock MAP and replace it with either a 2 BAR or a 3 BAR MAP sensor. Usually these are part of a stand alone system and you simply need to specify which one you want. 2 BAR up to 14 psi boost, 3 BAR from 14-28 psi.

 

1 bar = 1 atm = 14.7psi
2 bar = 2 atm = 29.4psi
3 bar = 3 atm = 44.1psi

isnt this right???

you are talking about boost over normal pressure of 1 bar though right?

 

By using the Haltech what you are doing is taking readings from different sensors (MAP, Intake Temp, Coolant Temp, Throttle Position) and running the exact amount of fuel and timing necessary to create optimum power and driveability from any vehicle. By letting the haltech take over these controls you will be eliminating the use of a MAF or VAF (AFM) on the car and running from a MAP based load. If you opt to not run boost you can also run from a TPS based load which is generally not needed and I do not recommend it.

You can leave the stock ECU in to run cruise control and any other things that are dependent on the stock ecu and just remove the CEL bulb from the cluster.

I think with the 1.6 Turbo setup that he is running a stand-alone will be able to pick up lost horsepower and torque and put his totals up near 170whp and matching torque with his current boost levels. Get out of the humidity and lower the temps and you're looking at one stable motor.