Last Dyno test of my 1.6L Turbo
#1
Last Dyno test of my 1.6L Turbo
Check it out lastest dyno results with air/fuel ratios from the addtion of a B&M oil cooler, 800CFM puller fan on intercooler, removed AC and stage 1 clutch soon water/methnol injection.
Last edited by biknman; November-26th-2002 at 09:15 PM.
#5
biknman,youre back!!!...how goes it?...I'm planning on doing my own turbo,tell me what I'm missing...VJ-11 Turbo off Mx-6 GT,Intercooler and piping off Mx-6 GT,custom exhaust manifold,HKS BOV,custom downpipe,check valves,Vortech 12:1 FMU,EGT Guage,Boost Guage...btw I checked the intercooler piping and I can get it to fit..so do i need anything else???
#6
macdaddyslomo,
You'll need a new clutch for sure get the ACT stage 1 and you need to run the oil lines for the turbo. They require taping into the oil sender unit to feed the turbo with oil and the tapping into the oil pan for the return oil line. Also I ran water lines to the turbo to cool it further. I robbed the water lines off the throttle body assembly for the turbo. Also just to be safe I switch to Mobil 1 syn oil and add an oil cooler with a remote oil filter the twice as big as the OEM one, added a another quart to the system. I ran the low-pressure air intake side of the turbo into the driver side fender well to get cold air, made out of a cut up Injen CAI so that I would have a bung for the MAF. I'd also run a fuel pressure gauge so you know if the rail is get fuel pressure at boost from your FMU. When plumming the EGT sensor get as close to the exhaust ports as you can so that you know when to shut it down before you melt the piston heads. Also a turbo timer is good idea unless you can get use to letting the car run a minute or two before you shut down so you don't boil the oil in the turbo and clog it up. Also run the PCV blow off into the exhaust or a catch can or you you'll get a nice cloud of blue smoke now and then. Also if you can move the battery to the truck it will give you a lot more room for intake piping. Last thing I can thing of is if you don't know what the waste gate is set at get a boost control device so you can control the boost levels. Hate for you to get it all hooked up slam on the gas and get like 20 pounds of boost an blew all the hard work up. The ECU will freak out until you route the check valves right and get the FMU running right but after a few days of driving it will learn what is going on. The check values are not right you'll get massive fuel cut as soon as you hit .5 pounds of boost and it will feel like the car is hitting a brick wall. Also you'll more than likely get a CEL all the time so you need a way to check the ECU for codes and what going on, I got an OBDII scanner of the net for $80. I think that's about it.
Good luck
You'll need a new clutch for sure get the ACT stage 1 and you need to run the oil lines for the turbo. They require taping into the oil sender unit to feed the turbo with oil and the tapping into the oil pan for the return oil line. Also I ran water lines to the turbo to cool it further. I robbed the water lines off the throttle body assembly for the turbo. Also just to be safe I switch to Mobil 1 syn oil and add an oil cooler with a remote oil filter the twice as big as the OEM one, added a another quart to the system. I ran the low-pressure air intake side of the turbo into the driver side fender well to get cold air, made out of a cut up Injen CAI so that I would have a bung for the MAF. I'd also run a fuel pressure gauge so you know if the rail is get fuel pressure at boost from your FMU. When plumming the EGT sensor get as close to the exhaust ports as you can so that you know when to shut it down before you melt the piston heads. Also a turbo timer is good idea unless you can get use to letting the car run a minute or two before you shut down so you don't boil the oil in the turbo and clog it up. Also run the PCV blow off into the exhaust or a catch can or you you'll get a nice cloud of blue smoke now and then. Also if you can move the battery to the truck it will give you a lot more room for intake piping. Last thing I can thing of is if you don't know what the waste gate is set at get a boost control device so you can control the boost levels. Hate for you to get it all hooked up slam on the gas and get like 20 pounds of boost an blew all the hard work up. The ECU will freak out until you route the check valves right and get the FMU running right but after a few days of driving it will learn what is going on. The check values are not right you'll get massive fuel cut as soon as you hit .5 pounds of boost and it will feel like the car is hitting a brick wall. Also you'll more than likely get a CEL all the time so you need a way to check the ECU for codes and what going on, I got an OBDII scanner of the net for $80. I think that's about it.
Good luck
#7
well the wastegate is set at 7 lbs of boost,so not too bad there....for the egt guage, when you say exhast port,do you mean on the downpipe or..?? Didnt you have the system running before the oil cooler was set up??..how many check valves are you running???...geez this is getting pretty complicated..I may just find a cheap 280zx turbo and crank up the boost...only thing I need to do that is the boost controller and the FMU...I can get the whole car for as much as what my manifold would cost...oh well,damn I'm fickle
#8
EGT probe in the header as close to the flange as you can get it. Ya I had it running before the oil cooler but I feel a lot better running hard a 8lbs of boost with the oil cooler and water injection. As for check valves two before the MAP sensor solenoid and one in between the MAP sensor and the MAP sensor solenoid. My turbo wastegate was set at 11lbs of boost I use a simple manual controller to keep it turned down to 6lbs of boost. FYI I have about $2500 into my turbo project.
#10
Yellow MP3, Well friend don't let friends drive there brand new car. Off camber corner uphill wet with super soft shoulder and a tree to close to the edge of the road mixed with a person that has never driven front wheel drive not a good combination.
#13
Thanks guys,
The Protege is going to become a trailer race car very soon. I'm selling the Wing West bumper, Derrick as dibs on it first. I plan on repairing the Mazdaspeed bumper soon. By the way the HP numbers in the above dyno are at the wheels hopefully by the spring I'll be close to 200hp. I'm working on plastic windows, LSD, water/alcohol injection system, FMIC, custom intake manifold with Halltec fuel computer and bigger injectors, and some serious weight savings. I have for sale some stuff if you guys are interested like the custom back seat covers Neoprene Black, MP3 floor mats never been in a car, Kenwood subwoofer unit out of an MP3 with built in AMP, and any interior plastic stuff if any body whats it make me an offer. The reason I'm doing all this is so that by next race season I'll have a Improved Touring Car to race locally and I got a 03' WRX for Christmas.
The Protege is going to become a trailer race car very soon. I'm selling the Wing West bumper, Derrick as dibs on it first. I plan on repairing the Mazdaspeed bumper soon. By the way the HP numbers in the above dyno are at the wheels hopefully by the spring I'll be close to 200hp. I'm working on plastic windows, LSD, water/alcohol injection system, FMIC, custom intake manifold with Halltec fuel computer and bigger injectors, and some serious weight savings. I have for sale some stuff if you guys are interested like the custom back seat covers Neoprene Black, MP3 floor mats never been in a car, Kenwood subwoofer unit out of an MP3 with built in AMP, and any interior plastic stuff if any body whats it make me an offer. The reason I'm doing all this is so that by next race season I'll have a Improved Touring Car to race locally and I got a 03' WRX for Christmas.
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