OK guys..let me know how you think this will work out...I can get a Turbo and intercooler plus all the piping off a MX-6 GT for $100....I think then all I would need is a Turbo Manifold,Vortech FMU,Check Valves,a BOV,and a down pipe...I've researched prices on a custom manifold,and I estimate total cost for the system at about $750.....what do you guys think?? Am I leaving anything out...and does this sound like a pretty good setup??? based on biknman's turbo setup I'm pretty sure this will work,although I'm positive I'll need a new clutch to handle the hp,since he went from 87 to 147 whp!!!...If I can get it done,I'm guessing I'll be pretty f-ing quick with how light this car is..give me some feedback!!!!!

 

bump.....

 

found a company that will do a log style custom manifold for $389...and actually my Dad has been a welder for 25 years so I can get him to make it for me for a LOT less if i bug him about it...found a good BOV already welded to a piece of 2 1/2" pipe...found the Vortech 12:1 FMU for $90...and Midas said they'll make the down pipe for $90...you do the math

 

read my original post...I already know about the clutch,but I dont consider that part of the turbo system..I already said I was getting the intercooler and piping with the turbo..$100 total..guages are a good idea,but timing controller,and fuel pump i doubt i'll need,I only plan on running 6-7 pounds of boost...biknman ran his with almost the exact same setup i am planning on doing and he didnt need that...anybody else input that actually reads the post got any input???

 

When Jesse hands out advice I suggest listening personally. At any rate, clutch etc aside, can you run an SAFC on that car? SAFC and bigger injectors make for a much nicer running car, but it'll take some dyno time to tune it in. I'm not a big fan of rising regulators as they stress the injectors ALOT. You definately need some gauges though, EGT and boost at a minimum. Otherwise your tuning blind and your motor will become a pile of red hot magma as Dr. Evil would say. Also you need to find a good spot to tap the oil feed from and get all the lines for that and water <i believe the PGT turbo is water cooled as well>.

 

I WAS listening...thats why I said the guages would be a good idea...more than likely a fuel-air guage and a boost guage will be run...however he mentioned I would ALSO need an intercooler,piping,and a clutch...I ALREADY said I had the intercooler and full piping and I know I'll need a clutch...I dont think I was asking about what I already know...pretty sure I asked if I left anything out...like the Oil lines...and yes that turbo is also water cooled...hey what about this for the water lines...since I was gonna bypass the water lines on the throttle body,why not use those to feed the turbo??? does that sound like a good idea???..

 

air/fuel gauges arent anywhere near acurate enough to safely tune the motor, you NEED an exhaust gas temp to safely tune it. Also, most people take the water from the main radiator hoses, the t/b is a good distance away to try and use its water lines.

 

Hmm...... $389 for a log manifold to fit a dinky turbo or $450 for a tubular equal length manifold that will fit a nice T3.....

 

ok help me out,I've never done this before...how do you use the EGT guage to tune,and what exactly will I be adjusting except boost levels,since the FMU is self adjusting based on boost,and the ecu will be just fine on its own before the turbo spools..also yes the they are 2 different motors,however the turbocharger and intercooler will be and the throttle body is in the same general area as my engine...the pipes are all rubber and flexible enough to run them in the same locations(with slight modifications to the pipe at the intercooler itself,which is cool because I'll probably mount the maf some where in there)..I already know,as I fit them all up,they will work with a little trimming

 

FMU's increase fuel at a linear rate, while mass of air goes up exponentially as boost pressure increases.

 

The EGT is used to show how hot your exhaust is coming out of the head. IF it gets too hot you add fuel until it levels out. IF its too cold you lean it out till you get where you want. I never run the BP-26 motor over 1600F, 1550 is where I'll tune the high RPM and 1500 will be the max up to about 5000rpm. For your motor I wouldn't go above 1500F to keep things safe.

It is not a means of tuning for knock, only for cylinder temperatures. You'll need a wideband o2 to get the mixtures correct and timing will need to be adjusted if you hear knock. Your 12:1 RRFPR may be too much for the injectors to handle or too much for the cars necessities.

Your intercooler should be away from heat, its supposed to cool air not soak it up. Rubber hoses retain heat as well. A backyard kit is just that, scrap parts, but you have to do some of it professionally or you'll end up with a backyard car.

 

Well the hoses Im referring to are the stock intercooler piping from the MX-6 GT..and the placement of the intercooler will be the same as the MX-6 also,so I dont think it will soak up too much heat in the front air scoop....Yes I will be doing most of the work myself,but based on another persons already proven setup on a car using the same peices,as far as fuel managementanyway. Just a different turbo and intercooler...he was using a Garrett T25 off an eclipse and a starion intercooler,and I will use the stock intercooler and VJ-11 Turbo off the mx-6...but his setup is working well,so I think mine will too...I just dont think it's necessary to spend $3000 to get a manifold,downpipe,intercooler,and piping if you dont have to...I know the VJ-11 is a good reliable turbo,and the intercooler will be there to help prevent detonation and make my setup a little more reliable, since the general consensus is that if you are boosting 6lbs or less the intercooler isnt even necessary...but turboge you have the tubular equal length manifold for a ZL-DE for $450??? can you make it to fit a VJ-ll turbo???

 

Its waiting on 3 buyers and a car. The manifold is setup for a T3 and is not available in a ihi flange.