my DOHC motor is in excellent shape (only 96,000 miles for a '91) and I have a few extra bux so I though I'd look into slapping a turbo..........
now my question is...........what are ALL the things that I need to do that........turbo itself, manifold, injectors, exhaust piping, etc...
would I have to reprogram the ecu ???
any information will be really helpfull as I will try to slowly get all the parts that are needed for this project...........
I hope that it will not cost too much............can do most of the work myself so I am not worried about paying for labor.....

also........would adding a turbo reduce the life of the motor ???
will it affect emissions ?


this has probably been asked before, but I did a search and found not that much info on it.......if I have missed it, please point me to the right direction....

thanks guys!

 

-----Turbo'ing Your BP Engine----- by Jess Dillow

Turbo parts added to my 1995 Escort GT:
--VJ-20 Turbo from a GTX imported from Japan http://www.corksport.com/ = $300
--Exhaust Manifold -from a GTX = $176 from Cork Sport
--Jacobs "Boost Master" timing controller -from Jacobs Electronics. = $245
--Fuel Management Unit (FMU) -from Cartech. = $200 #20005 rising rate fuel pressure regulator
--Starion/Conquest TSI intercooler = $120
--Mandrel Bends -from JC Whitney. I used a 5 -90 degree bends and 2 -45 degree bends in my setup
YMMV
--Bosch BOV = $55
--Walbro 255 ltr./hr. fuel pump -from VE Petersen Company 1-800-537-6212 = $130
--Gauges: from Summit Racing. = about $300
Boost
Exhaust Gas Temperature (EGT)
A/F ratio
Fuel Pressure
Oil Pressure
Water Temperature
--"Grainger" Valve to control boost. http://pages.cthome.net/gus/mike.html = $2
--Apexi S-AFC ($327) and GTX 330 cc injectors (about $150) can now safely run 10 psi
--4-wire TPS sensor to allow the S-AFC to work properly
Can also use: Pre 95 talon BOV (the all metal one) about 45.00 (used) 2" copper bends used for
water pipe with radiator hose in various bends to connect the piping.

The install was fairly easy after all the parts where gathered. I installed the intercooler,
FMU, gauges, and timing controller before the turbo arrived. The oil supply line was the hardest
part. I wanted to install the oil pressure gauge inline to make sure the turbo had oil pressure.
At the time I couldn't find adapters to fit the engine and turbo so I ordered M10 x 1.5 metric
fittings and AN6 fittings and had them welded. The fittings allowed me to use stainless steel
hose and an inline adapter for the oil pressure sending unit. Fittings can be bought from
Turbonetics. They are M10 x 1.5 to AN3 size for about $10-15 a piece.
Before installing the turbo, I figured out where I wanted to run the intake piping and mounted
the intercooler behind the bumper. I used two turbo "hump" hoses to allow flex in the piping.
Connecting the turbo to the intercooler was tricky because it required the pipe to be welded
to a 1 3/4" flange. I carefully mocked up the flange and pipe before marking it and having it
welded at an exhaust shop. My intake piping is very similar to the 1.8 GTX.
The BOV plumbs back into the intake just before the turbo using some copper plumbing fittings
and a PVC grommet glued into part of an OEM intake boot.
The coolant supply line was taken from the engine block after ordering an OEM fitting from a
1988-89 GTX at the Mazda dealer. The coolant return was plumbed back into the heater core return
hose using 1/2" copper water line repair pipe. I also used this copper pipe to install the water
temp sensor into the heater core inlet hose for ease of wiring and an accurate temperature
reading. This 1/2" copper pipe fits perfectly into the heater core line without restricting
water flow to/from the heater core. Originally, the pipe was designed to slip over a standard
1/2" water supply line to fix a burst. It can be located at most any home improvement store.
The turbo and manifold bolted to the engine without to much trouble. I had to unbolt the metal
water return pipe bracket where it bolts to the transmission to allow the manifold to slip onto
the studs. This all becomes clear when removing the OEM manifold. Plumbing the intake from the
VAF to the compressor inlet was most difficult due to lack of space. The top radiator bracket
holes were slotted to move the radiator 1/2" forward. Plan on keeping the OEM plastic fan shroud
and fan. Without it, the turbo bakes the passenger's side of the radiator and the engine runs
hot.
Without the S-AFC and larger injectors, boost was limited to 5-6 psi. I am currently running 9
psi. Plan on paying for a 2.5" exhaust, good tires, and a better clutch after the install.
The VJ-20 turbo spools very quickly. Bill Carothers ran the quarter mile in 14.9 seconds at 93
mph running 5 psi boost. He owns a 1994 EGT with over 100,000 miles on it. His 60 ft. times were
near 2.4 seconds due to traction problems on OEM tires. I am anxious to test mine running
9-10 psi. I am hoping for low 14's on street tires.

----Jess 1995 EGT turbo

 

Thanks a lot for the helpful info Darryl.......

the total came out to much more than I expected.....over $2,000

I might start buying things one by one so I don't spend all that cash at once.............time will tell...........

 

That is the cheaper route to go, using the stock gtx turbo. You may need to rebuild the turbo as well after that for approx $275.

I have a T3, manifold, oil lines, 3" A/C Clearing downpipe, 3" cold air intake, for $1500. With an optional pipe to run non-intercooled or with the option for a full intercooler system as well.

It all depends on your power level requirements. This turbo will produce over 300whp.

 

Also have a set of genuine GT-R 370cc injectors available with fuel rail or vishnu rail.

 

wouldn't the GTX 330 cc injectors mentioned above do the job ?
and if I can remember correctly, I think I read somewhere that the injectors from an RX-7 can be used ??? is that correct ?

thanks for the flow of info

 

Nice work mazdaspeedwest! Will you be tweaking the new VW turbo??? Gobs of potential there.

 

The post above is not associated with the mods on his car

 

Ahh. A cut and past job. I need...

 

here....have a as well

 

how 'bout those P&P heads Braden's offering?? :
of course if you still wanted to turbo, that means it'd be that much more....but it gives you an option and one that will provide some power now AND make a future turbo that much better!