This tutorial should hopefully help you install rear struts and springs on a Protege5 as well as troubleshoot problems with the install. The install time may vary from 2-3 hours to 12 hours if all your bolts are seized up. So be prepared for the worst case scenario if you live in a harsh climate where rust is known to dominate your world.


Tools you will need:

-PB Blaster (lots & lots of PB..)
-Big *** breaker bar (½” drive) or hollow steel pipe
-Sockets & Wrenches in 12, 14, 17, & 19mm
-Pliers
-Jack stands (very important!!)
-Spring Compressor
-Optional but really useful, compressor with impact gun, air wrench, air drill (I didn't have these so you'll be alright if you don't have them)


Step 1:
I suggest that you do this first step the night before you plan doing all the work, so you can give the PB Blaster time to soak into the bolts.
Start by jacking up the car and putting it on jack stands. I only had two, so I did the front first then the rear. Take off the wheels and set them aside somewhere. Get out your trusty PB and spray the hell out of every bolt you see.


Step 2:
The following morning/afternoon you should be ready to attempt removing everything so get all your tools ready. First of all you will need to remove the ABS sensor and set it aside so it doesn't get damaged (they're not cheap to replace). I wasn't able to fully remove the rear ABS sensors, but you still want to at least unbolt it from the strut using a 12mm socket (yes I KNOW .. the pic is FILTHY!!)


Step 3:
Next up you should break loose the endlink. You only need to remove the top part, so don't hassle yourself with the bottom. Also, my endlinks are made by AWR so your stock ones are likely to be a lot different AND much much much harder to remove. You will need a 14mm socket & wrench, lots of patience, and I suppose praying before this part may help as well depending on your relationship with the man upstairs.


Step 4:
After you remove the top part of the endlink, you may move onto the two 17mm main strut bolts. You'll need a 17mm wrench on one side, 17mm socket on the other and either a really big *** breaker bar or a hollow steel pole to use a lever. Place the wrench on the left side so it's touching the brake rotor, and use as much leverage as you can on the other side to break these bolts loose. Just take it easy and they'll give in sooner or later, you don't wanna put TOO much pressure at once and break them in half.
*NOTE*
You only want to break these loose at this point, do NOT remove them all the way until you do the top of the strut first.

 

Step 5:
Now that you've removed the top endlink, unclipped the brake & ABS lines, and broken loose the main strut bolts, you need to go clean up your hands and pop the hatch. In order to gain access to the top of the strut you will need to remove some of the plastic pieces, brackets, and rear seat belts. Start by gently pulling up on the front of the top panel and working your way to the back of the car. You only need to remove this piece, but removing the sides will make your job a LOT easier (I chose not to cuz I was lazy..) Instructions can be found at http://protege5.ugly.net/09-17.PDF on page 15


Step 6:
With the top panel off you will now have access to the seat belt and brackets which hold it in place. Undo the 17mm bolt holding the seat belt, then take out the seat belt and all the little spongy stuff. Place the seat belt and the plastic panel on the seat and fold it down to give you more room for the next step.


Step 7:
Now you will need a deep 14mm socket for the next part, otherwise there is no way you can do these next two steps without removing additional plastic panels. Squeeze the wrench in somehow and undo the two 14mm nuts to take off the metal bracket covering the top of the strut.



Step 8:
Once the metal bracket is out, you will now have access to the top strut bolts. Remove the rubber cap covering the middle, and undo the 17mm nut in the center. Do NOT remove it all the way, but simply break it loose, because if you try doing this part with the strut assembly completely removed it will be fun at all. Just break it loose and leave it alone until later. Then use your deep 14mm socket to remove the three 14mm nuts holding the top of the strut.

 

The following steps are the same as the front and you can find detailed pictures and instructions at this How-To: Front Strut and Spring Install

Step 9:
Once you have removed the three 14mm nuts on the top of the strut, go ahead and take out the two 17mm bolts holding the strut at the bottom as well. You will now be able to remove the whole strut assembly and take it out of it's place. Be careful not to pull on the ABS sensor, and watch for the brake lines. It's a little tricky getting that whole thing outta there, but take it easy and you'll get it (picture below is of front strut but everything should look almost the same).


Step 10:
Get out your spring compressor, and place them on each side of the spring. It's very important that you compress the spring before attempting to remove the top strut mount as you could potentially hurt yourself quite badly if you don't. I did about 10 turns on each side three times or so, and that gave me enough compression to safely remove everything.


Step 11:
With the spring now compressed you will need to once again use a 17mm socket to remove the center nut on top of the strut. Isn't it much easier to just easily remove it now? Also remove the upper strut mount, dust boot & bump stop, spring, and lower strut mount. You should be looking at something like this.. (with the exception of the upper strut mount having only three bolts)


Step 12:
Put all the pieces of the strut assembly back together and feel free to upgrade your struts and/or springs. You may also (optional) use new strut mounts as well, but my old ones were in pretty good shape so I only replaced the strut with a newer one.
Now for the rear springs you may freely remove the spring compressors off the spring as the springs do not need to be compressed in order to be reinstalled. Put on the lower spring seat, spring, dust boot & bump stop, upper spring seat and then tighten the center nut. The center nut is not near as easy as the front, but with the right tools everything is possible. Feel free to shoot me a PM if you are having problems with this part.

 

Step 13:
Now that the strut assembly is back together, put it back in and make sure the top strut bolts are facing the right direction. Secure the top by hand tightening the three 14mm nuts, and then secure the bottom two 17mm bolts. Reinstall the endlink, ABS & brake lines, and make sure to use the proper torque specs on all bolts.

Step 14:
Then lastly, there is an optional step which you can do a number of different ways but I prefer it this way. Push up on the strut assembly by using a jack so that the strut gets pushed as far up as possible. This way you are able to secure the top 14mm nuts properly, or you can just do it when you get the car back on the ground .. either way achieves the same result.



And now you're done. Make sure everything is tightened properly and you don't have any extra/missing pieces. Take the car for a spin around the block to make sure there aren't any funny noises or vibrations and enjoy your new struts/springs

 

I got a pair of rear springs,struts,top mounts. What would i need to buy to complete it? So far I'm thinking of :

Dust Cover
Upper mount (Piece that's holds the upper spring seat and goes under the top mounts)
Spring seat bottom

This is what i'm thinking of so far. Theres been this par that has been troubling me. Would i need a the stopper back for the rears? i don't know what it is but due to a illustration i've seen it says they are on the rear strut on a Protege 5. Thanks for your time for any help. It says i couldn't Pm you.

Michael