DISCLAIMER: The brake system is the most important system in the vehicle. If, for any reason you do not feel confident and/or do not feel you have the proper tools, then PLEASE have the work done by a qualified mechanic. I do not accept responsibility for any work you do (whether you're following this guide or not). WORK AT YOUR OWN RISK!

Alright, so let's get started. Shall we?!

Introduction

NOTE: Because these boards only allow up to 10000 characters, this DIY guide has been chopped into segments.

In this second installment of the DIY series, I shall cover the front brake system. More specifically, this guide will show the proper removal and installation of: Front Disc caliper, Front brake pad, Front rotor. This guide should be straightforward enough to follow without the supplement of a service manual such as Haynes. However, I highly recommend that you should still have one present.

The Mazda Protege front brake system design (in my opinion) is fairly straightforward....on paper. In reality though, the system is heavily flawed...especially for DIY mechanics such as us. The hardest part you'll come across throughout this job are the 2 sliding pins that hold the brake pads in place. You'll know what I mean once you go through this guide.

The rest however, is fairly simple and straightforward. The caliper mounting bolts were fairly easy to remove (for mine anyway). And rotor removal is also simple.

Since this is my first time with a Mazda, it took me quite some time to finish the job. I also had to take some still photos for you guys which lengthened the whole process. But, for the most part, I was studying the system as a whole, taking my time (I like to be relaxed, but that's just me), and cross-referencing with my Haynes Manual to ensure I am doing the right thing. Therefore, it took me 8 hours to do the front (left and right) including bleeding the brakes (if anyone knows a good masseuse in Montreal, please let me know ).

If you're wondering about my mechanical experience...well I'm a computer techie by trade. Working on cars is a hobby of mine. As for brake systems, I've done rotor and pad removal/installation on a '90 Acura Integra (front and rear). And 4-wheel brake bleeding on a '90 Eagle Talon AWD TSI. So, I had a good idea of what to expect and what to look for before I started the job.

One last thing. This guide will not show you how to bleed the brakes. Since my DIY bleeder kit failed on me, I fudged my whole bleeding process (a good excuse to get Speed Bleeders ). Therefore, I will not discuss brake bleeding in length. In fact, if I do come up with a good process in bleeding the brakes, it is best if it is written in a separate guide. As a general rule, bleed the brakes only if you are replacing the caliper or anything to do with the removal of the brake line banjo bolt. Of course, other things like replacing the master cylinder, brake lines, or bad fluid requires brake bleeding as well.

Requirements/Tools

You should have some basic hand tools present already if you don't have one. Some socket sets (SAE and Metric), different size ratchets, box-end and open-end wrenches (SAE and Metric), Screwdriver sets, Hex sets (SAE and Metric), ratchet extensions, etc, etc.

Apart from these, this is basically what I used for this whole procedure:

12mm socket
14mm socket
1/2" Johnny Bar
3/8" Ratchet drive
Axle Stand
Wheel Jack
Wheel Lug Nut wrench (w/ 21mm socket end)
Long-Nose pliers
Vice-Grips
High Temperature Grease
Anti-Seize Compound
Disc-Brake quiet compound (high temp. grease can be used as a substitute)
Liquid Wrench
Pin/Tap (not sure the exact terminology, but you'll see what I mean)
Disc brake cleaner
Shop towels
Work light (unless you're working in daylight)
C-clamp
Hammer
Table vice (optional)

If you're replacing components, make sure you have:

- Caliper Assembly (if replacing the caliper)
- Brake pads (if replacing the pads)
- Rotor (if replacing the rotor)

NOTE: If you're buying a rebuilt caliper, please make sure all the components are there (stupid Crappy Tire!!). There must be two (2) copper washers for the brake hose banjo bolt. And two (2) bolt sleeves of different lengths (mine came uninstalled for some odd reason). And also the caliper itself Test and make sure the bleeder screw is easily removable and not stuck.

Encountering Seized Components

Suspension and Brake systems are heavily exposed to mother nature. Therefore, you will encounter a heavily stuck bolt or two. Some things to use to counter this problem are:

- Leverage: When working with stuck bolts, always apply as much leverage as you can. This means using a longer ratchet (like a Johnny Bar) rather than your measly 3/8" drive. And also apply as much of your weight as you can.
- Liquid Wrench: Whether it is lightly stuck or heavily stuck, you should still use some kind of penetrating oil.
- Torch: Heat loosens the bolt. This tool is normally used for heavily stuck bolts. Please take extra care when handling this device (especially around the brake lines).
- Hammer: Sometimes a dose of Liquid Wrench and tapping the bolt with a Hammer loosens it enough for you to remove it.
- Candle Wax: I've heard of this before, but have never tried it. When properly heated and then applied to the bolt, it penetrates the bolt better than Liquid Wrench. This can be used as an alternative to Torch for Heavily stuck bolts.

You may encounter a problem with stripping a bolt. This happened to me with the rear bleeder screw. It now needs a new caliper You should carry an assortment of bolts with you if possible.

This is just the beginning

Task: Front Brake Caliper, Front Brake Pad, Front Rotor Replacement, Removal, & Installation (keywords for people that use the search function )
Difficulty: Easy to Moderate (depending on how well the bolts will cooperate )
Cars Applicable: 95-98 Protege (All Trim Levels, US & Canadian versions). MAY also apply to 90-94 Proteges and 99-Present Proteges (G3 Protege calipers are different than G2 for sure).
Car used in this guide: 1996 Protege LX (Canadian version)

STEP 1

NOTE: The pictures depict my driver's side front wheel (left-front).

Apply the parking brake for the rear wheels. Put the tranny in Neutral. Loosen the wheel lug nuts (21mm). Raise the vehicle and support it using an axle stand. Remove the lug nuts. Remove the wheel. Raise the other front wheel. Turn the steering wheel so that the caliper you are working on is facing outwards towards you.

First thing I'd like to do is loosen the bolts that I know might be stuck. These are the two (2) caliper mounting bolts and two (2) sliding pins. The sliding pins will be covered later. For now the mounting bolts should be the issue. If you happen to strip it, then chances are you can limp to a mechanic shop to have them remove it. Better to find that out now than later.

Refer to Fig. 1 below. Pointer 1a in the picture points the 2 caliper mounting bolts. Just crack it loose using a Johnny bar and a 14mm socket (DO NOT REMOVE IT YET). If you plan on replacing the caliper or overhaul it, this might also be a good idea to crack loose the brake line banjo bolt using a 12mm socket(Pointer 1b). If not, then it is not necessary to touch the brake line banjo bolt. Again, just crack it loose and do not let it leak. NOTE:If you plan on replacing the brake pads only, you do not need to remove the caliper mounting bolts.

Fig. 1


STEP 2

Half of the problem is now solved. Once you have loosened the mounting bolts, you can rest assured that removing the caliper out of the way for the rotor will be easy.

On our next step, remove the M-shaped spring using a long-nose pliers as shown in Fig. 2 NOTE: If you're brakes has never been serviced before, take note as to how the M-spring is installed. If you look at mine below and compare it to the Haynes Manual, it differs. I have installed it the way you see it below since it never gave me any problems (mine has definitely been serviced before).

Fig. 2


STEP 3

Remove the W-shaped pin retaining clip as shown in Fig. 3

Fig. 3


STEP 4

Open the brake reservoir cap, and place some shop towels around the reservoir to catch any overspill. Using a C-clamp, push the caliper piston inward as shown in Fig. 4. Notice I used the brake pad for the c-clamp to grab on to. This will force fluid back to the reservoir (so keep an eye on it). Once the caliper is pushed back, you may place the reservoir cap back on.

Fig. 4


STEP 5

Ahhhhh...now comes the hard part. Taking a pin tap (or whatyamacallit) and hammer, slide the brake pad pins off the caliper...see Fig. 5. Use a vice grip if need some grip. Proceed to Step 8 IF you only plan on replacing the rotor.

Fig. 5

 

STEP 6

Well, it's not really step 6. But anyway, if you can't slide the pins off coz' it got stuck (Dama Mazda designers, they must've been high on somethin' ), when the caliper is removed from the car, you will have better access to the pins...along with better leverage. Pointer 6a in Fig. 6 shows where the pins are and me holding that pin/tap thingy (Damn, what do you call that?)! Be careful however, because you must either plug the brake line to a new caliper or with a rubber hose to stop it from leaking.

Fig. 6



STEP 7

If you happen to slide the pins out with relative ease, then you can pull the brake pads off (Pointer 7a in Fig. 7). Don't forget to slide the shims (backing plates) with the pads too. Proceed to Step 15 IF you only plan to replace the pads.

Fig. 7


STEP 8

Remove the caliper mounting bolts (upper and lower). Please note, the upper mounting bolt is longer than the lower mounting bolt. Sometimes the bolt sleeves (pointer 8a in Fig. 8) needs to be pushed away from the disc rotor in order for you to remove the caliper. Gently pull it away in a twisting motion using a pair of vice grips (DO NOT REMOVE IT). Then remove the caliper away from the rotor (you might have to jiggle it a little). NOTE: AVOID hanging the caliper by the brake line only. This will wear the brake line prematurely or could possibly cause a tear. Either suspend it using a hanger wire looped through the strut or carefully set it on top of the rotor or caliper mounting bracket.

Fig. 8



STEP 9

With the caliper removed and out of the way, you may slide off the disc rotor. You might have to wiggle a bit for it to come loose. Whether you are using the old or installing a new disc, it is best to make sure it is cleaned first with a proper Disc Brake Cleaner. Pointer 9a in Fig.9 points to two (2) guide plates that hold the inner brake pad in place. These come off easily, so care must be taken to make sure they are there upon re-installation.

NOTE: Proceed to Step 14 if you do not plan on replacing or overhauling the caliper.

Fig. 9


STEP 10

Fig. 10 shows a rebuilt caliper that I purchased from Crappy Tire (Canadian Tire). The bolt sleeves were disassembled and must be installed. Coat the sleeves with high temp. grease before installation. Be aware that both sleeves are of different lengths. The sleeve closest to the bleeder screw is always the longest (since that is on top).

Fig. 10


STEP 11

Fig. 11 shows both sleeves installed. Please note that the boots fall flush with the sleeves on both sides (other end not shown).

Fig. 11

 

STEP 12

Unfortunately, I don't have a third hand. Therefore, I couldn't take picture while I was transferring the brake line banjo bolt from the old caliper to the new one. However, Fig. 12 shows both calipers (one old, one replacement). Pointer 12a shows the banjo bolt & brake line, and where it should be installed on the new caliper. Please ensure to use 2 new copper washers (this should come with the rebuilt caliper unit).

Brake fluid will not gush out like a water hose, so don't be afraid. You should place some kind of a mat, towel, newspaper, etc. on the floor underneath the workplace so that brake fluid does not come into contact with the ground (consequently your tires when you reinstall it). Take your time, but don't waste it either (ie. If the phone is ringing, let it ring. If your woman wants to get it on with you, then....just make sure the hose is not leaking ). NOTE: DO NOT apply Anti-Seize on the banjo bolt threads!

Fig. 12


STEP 13

Fig. 13 shows the brake line transferred to the new caliper. Notice the 2 new copper washers. One between the brake line and the caliper. And the other is between the banjo bolt and brake line. Do not torque the bolt to spec. yet. Tighten it enough so that brake fluid doesn't leak. Torque it later when the caliper is installed so you have some leverage. Using a shop towel, wipe off any spilled brake fluid.

Fig. 13


STEP 14

Install the disc rotor. Apply anti-seize on the caliper mounting bolts. Install the caliper and caliper mounting bolts (held by my hand...Fig. 14). Do not torque it to spec yet.

Fig. 14


STEP 15

Apply disc brake quiet grease onto the back of the brake pad and pad plates as shown in Fig. 15.

Fig. 15


STEP 16

Install the brake pads as shown in Fig. 16. Now, you can torque the caliper mounting bolts (29-36 ft-lbs.). Second, torque the banjo bolt only if you serviced it (16-21 ft-lbs.).

Fig. 16


STEP 17

Install the M-shaped spring as shown by Pointer 17a in Fig. 17. Again, there might be some confusion with the way this is installed. The Haynes manual shows it the other way around. I don't think there is a problem either way...but I'm not exactly 100% sure....so beware.

Apply Anti-Seize on the lower pad pin. Install the lower pad pin. Pointer 17b shows the hole for the other retaining clip to be installed. Make sure the hole is facing outward like this for easy installation of the clip.

Fig. 17


STEP 18

Apply Anti-Seize on the top pad pin. Install the top pad pin. Again keep note of the hole as pointed by Pointer 18a in Fig. 18.

Fig. 18


STEP 19

Install the W-shaped retaining clip through the two (2) holes of the pad pins as shown in Fig. 19.

Fig. 19


STEP 20

Everything is now installed! Pat yourself on the back. Just make sure of the torque specs. of the bolts that you have touched. Give it a good once over and make sure nothing is missing.

With the car on Neutral (or Park for Auto), start the engine and press on the brake pedal. This will readjust the brake piston accordingly. Shut the engine off. Inspect your work once more. Bleed the brakes if you have tampered with the brake hose banjo bolt or if you feel that it is necessary. Jack the other front wheel if not done so already, and turn the steering wheel back to center. Install the wheel and wheel lug nuts and torque the nuts to spec. (95 and later models = 66-94 ft-lbs.).

If you need to service the other wheel, then do so starting from STEP 1 again. Once done, take the car with your window down. Listen for any abnormal noise. Check the brake pedal effort. Check the brake response & performance. Fix any abnormalities accordingly.

CONCLUSION

If the pictures do not show. The album is here http://www.imagestation.com/album/?id=4291697257

The pics in the album are titled accordingly.

The hardest will be the pad pins. I coated the pins heavily with Anti-Seize and will see if that will help me in the future. I'm curious if our G2 Proteges can use the G3 calipers since I believe they are easier to service. I really worry about the design of that pin since the only thing that holds it in place is the retainer clip. Once the clip is removed, the pin can easily slide out, and out goes the brake pads!!

The cost of my front caliper came out to approx. $98CAN each plus taxes from Crappy Tire (Canadian Tire). Once the old caliper is returned, I get a $50CAN return per caliper. So, technically, the caliper is only around $45CAN each. I highly recommend buying a rebuilt caliper instead of rebuilding it yourself with a rebuilt kit because of such a cheap price.

I do have pics of my rear brake system, and I will post a new topic for that. It will be just as long. In fact, I believe it will be longer since it has 10 more pics or so. Stay tuned for that.

If you have any questions/comments, post them here (I encourage you to be constructive please ) or e-mail me at the_oz@hotmail.com. Please include in the subject line "Front Brake Overhaul" because I get a lot of junk e-mail. I will try and submit this guide to other Protege websites possibly sometime tomorrow.

FINAL NOTE: If you plan on mirroring this post on a webpage or something, please be courteous enough to give me credit, and please copy and distribute this post in its entirety without any modifications. Thanks

Regards,

Oz

 

I don't know if you have tried them , but the KVR brake pads that corksport sells are awesome, I have a friend getting some ,so we can see how he likes them
bruce

 

Yup, I've tried the KVR carbon-fibre pads on my Acura Integra before. It was mated with Ractive Xdrilled/Slotted Rotors. Noise and dust was minimal. However, because I did not clean the rotors during installation, my rear pads were glazing the rear rotors. Other than that, I can't really say anything about performance because I also had the Xdrilled rotors installed. Stopping power with both pieces installed improved dramatically though (especially wet-weather braking).

Regards,

Oz

 

I really wish that the pictures would show.

Are the caliper bolts located on the back of the caliper?

Dont the caliper pins need to be lubed with
high temp grease? Are there any other pins that
need to be greased?

Im getting ready to do the brakes in a week
or so and would appreciate any help?

Did anyone save the pics??

thanks

obx