DISCLAIMER: The brake system is the most important system in the vehicle. If, for any reason you do not feel confident and/or do not feel you have the proper tools, then PLEASE have the work done by a qualified mechanic. I do not accept responsibility for any work you do (whether you're following this guide or not). WORK AT YOUR OWN RISK!

Notes from the Author

NOTE: Because these boards only allow up to 10000 characters, this DIY guide has been chopped into segments.

Finally, I have the time to sit down and write this up. I had the done the work 2 weeks ago and couldn't find the time to gather the info together...until now. In this installment, I will cover the Rear Disc Brake system of the Mazda Protege. This guide WILL NOT show you how to convert from drum-to-disc. I personally do not know what is involved with that procedure.

Compared to the front brake system of the Protege, the rear system is actually easy, but tedious. There are extra steps to follow (especially when removing the rotor), but difficulty is moderate. You will encounter a lot of resistance with the caliper mounting bolts...at least I did. The manual adjustment screw that can be used to manually adjust the piston is a great feature (compared to the Acura Integra that I worked on). However, caution should be taken when working with the screw since it can easily slide out.

If I were to do this again, it would probably take me an hour for each caliper. The first time though took me a good 6 (again I like taking my time).

Tools

The Do-It-Yourselfer should be armed with the basic hand tools: Ratchet sets, Wrenches, Screwdrivers, Hex drivers, etc.

The tools that I used for this procedure are:

- 4mm Hex wrench
- 8,10,12,14mm socket and wrenches
- 3/8" ratchet
- 1/2" Johnny Bar
- Car Jack
- Axle Stands
- Wheel lug nut wrench (w/ 21mm socket end)
- Vice Grips
- Screwdriver
- Can of Liquid Wrench
- Permatex Anti-Seize Compound
- Disc Brake quiet compound
- High Temp. Grease
- Disc brake cleaner
- Shop Towels
- Work light

When Replacing Components

- It is recommended that you buy shim kits when replacing the brake pads.
- Disc rotors should be wiped off with Disc brake cleaner before installation.
- The caliper SHOULD come with a rebuilt caliper mount bracket. Check before buying!!!
- A rebuilt caliper ALWAYS comes with 2 copper washers for the brake line banjo bolt.

Encountering Seized Components

Suspension and Brake systems are heavily exposed to mother nature. Therefore, you will encounter a heavily stuck bolt or two. Some things to use to counter this problem are:

- Leverage: When working with stuck bolts, always apply as much leverage as you can. This means using a longer ratchet (like a Johnny Bar) rather than your measly 3/8" drive. And also apply as much of your weight as you can.
- Liquid Wrench: Whether it is lightly stuck or heavily stuck, you should still use some kind of penetrating oil.
- Torch: Heat loosens the bolt. This tool is normally used for heavily stuck bolts. Please take extra care when handling this device (especially around the brake lines).
- Hammer: Sometimes a dose of Liquid Wrench and tapping the bolt with a Hammer loosens it enough for you to remove it.
- Candle Wax: I've heard of this before, but have never tried it. When properly heated and then applied to the bolt, it penetrates the bolt better than Liquid Wrench. This can be used as an alternative to Torch for Heavily stuck bolts.

You may encounter a problem with stripping a bolt. This happened to me with the rear bleeder screw. It now needs a new caliper. You should carry an assortment of bolts with you if possible. I didn't, but I got lucky.

Intro

Task: Rear Brake Caliper, Rear Brake Pad, Rear Brake Rotor Replacement, Removal, & Installation.
Difficulty: Moderate to Hard (depending if the bolts cooperate).
Cars Applicable: 95-98 Protege SE (US models), 95-98 Protege LX, SE (Canadian Models). MAY also apply to 99-later Proteges.
Car used in this guide: 1996 Protege LX (Canadian). Pictures show the driver side rear.

If the pics do not show, click here for the album:

http://www.imagestation.com/album/?id=4291698187

 

STEP 1

NOTE: It is RECOMMENDED that you disable the parking brake. To give you extra security, put the car in stall mode (1st or 3rd gear). When I take the wheel off the rear, I normally place the wheel in front of the front wheel to act like a chalk block.

Ensure the parking brake is disabled, and the car is stalled. Loosen the wheel lug nuts (21mm) and raise the vehicle and support it using axle stands. Remove the wheel lug nuts, then remove the wheel.

The caliper mount bracket bolts will be the most difficult throughout this procedure. I used a lot of leverage and liquid wrench to loosen mine (you might encounter worse). Since, I do not have a car hoist, my workspace is limited and therefore I must create some space.

Proceed to Step 5 if you plan on replacing the brake pads only.

Using a screwdriver, insert it through the parking cable retaining clip as shown in Fig. 1. Pull it off by twisting it back and forth.

Fig. 1 - Remove retaining clip.


STEP 2

Using a 14mm socket, remove the parking brake mount bolt (see Fig. 2). This will make the parking brake cable easier to remove. Once the mount is removed, remove the parking brake cable and set it aside.

Fig. 2 - Remove Parking brake cable


STEP 3

You now have some room to insert the Johnny bar (with 14mm socket) onto the upper caliper mounting bolt (see Fig. 3). Just crack it loose for now. If you are unable to remove the bolt (ie. Strip it), at least the parking brake is the only thing removed, and can be re-installed back so you can limp to a mechanic's shop.

Fig. 3 - Cracking the upper caliper mounting bolt loose.


STEP 4

Next would be the lower caliper mounting bolt (see Fig. 4). Again, just crack it loose.

Fig. 4 - Cracking the lower caliper mounting bolt loose.


STEP 5

Fig. 5 shows the location of the manual adjustment screw is located. Using a 14mm socket, you must remove the bolt that covers the adjustment screw. I have re-installed the parking brake cable mount to help you find the bolt.

Fig. 5 - Locate the manual adjustment screw.

 

STEP 6

Insert a 4mm hex wrench inside the hole and you will find the adjustment screw (See Fig. 6). Turn it so that the piston retracts back and releases clamping pressure on the brake pad. If you turn the hex driver one way and find the rotor will not turn, then you have applied more force on the brake pad. Be careful when removing the 4mm hex driver as the manual adjustment screw can easily pop-out!

Then, remove the rubber boot cover as pointed by Pointer 6a (Fig. 6).

Fig. 6 - Pushing the piston back using the adjustment screw.


STEP 7

Using a 12mm socket, unbolt the lower caliper pin/lock bolt from the caliper (see Fig. 7). It's a weird design. The pin serves as a bolt as well.

Fig. 7 - Unbolt lower caliper pin.


STEP 8

If you cannot lift the caliper to reveal the brake pads, I found that removing the lower caliper pin/lock bolt entirely helps (see. Fig 8). Try not to damage the pin as you may need it later.

Fig. 8 - Remove lower caliper pin.


STEP 9

Lift the caliper up to expose the brake pad (see Fig. 9). Take note of how the M-spring (Pointer 9a) and the Guide plates (Pointer 9b) are installed.

Fig. 9 - Exposing the brake pads.


STEP 10

Remove the brake pads, taking note on how they were installed in the first place. I placed them down on the ground like this (Fig. 10) to help me remember. Proceed to Step 18 if you plan on replacing the brake pads only.

Fig. 10 - Brake pads removed.

 

STEP 11

If you plan on replacing the caliper, it is best to loosen the brake line banjo bolt while the caliper is still intact (fig. 11). Do not remove it, just loosen it so that later you will have an easier time of transferring the brake line to the new caliper.

Fig. 11 - Loosen the brake line banjo bolt (12mm socket).


STEP 12

You may now remove the upper and lower caliper mounting bolts and remove the caliper mount bracket. Because the upper caliper pin is still attached to the caliper and mount, you will be moving both as a unit. Set the caliper aside, but DO NOT let it hang using the brake line! You may now remove the rotor. You may have to wiggle it free, but generally it is not hard.

Fig. 12 - Caliper put aside. Remove rotor.


STEP 13

Whether you are reusing the old rotor or replacing it with a new one, it is always good to clean it with a disc brake cleaner. Proceed to Step 17 if you are NOT replacing the brake caliper.

Fig. 13 - Cleaning the rotor using a disc brake cleaner.


STEP 14

Pointer 14a in Fig. 14 shows the brake line hole of the new caliper and the brake line to be transferred. It is good to place some kind of absorbent material on the ground so that when you install the wheel, it will not come into contact with any brake fluid. When transferring the brake lines, brake fluid will not gush out like a waterfall. It will drip fast, and you must act fairly quickly (but surely). DO NOT forget to use the 2 new copper washers.

Fig. 14 - Transfer the brake line to the new caliper.


STEP 15

Fig. 15 shows the brake line transferred to the new caliper. Notice how the 2 copper washers are installed? One is on each side of the brake line banjo fitting. Tighten the bolt so that there are no fluid leaks, but do not torque it yet. Clean the area free of brake fluid as well as your hands as soon as possible.

Fig. 15 - Transfer complete. Clean area.

 

STEP 16

The damn ****** at Crappy Tire (Canadian Tire) did not ensure that my calipers are suppose to come with rebuilt caliper mount brackets! So buyer beware! Make sure your rebuilt caliper comes ATTACHED with a caliper mount bracket! Fig. 16 shows my old caliper mount bracket separated from the old caliper. I coated the caliper pin with high temp grease (this is a must). Notice that you can insert a hex driver into the caliper pin? DON'T!! It is NOT to be removed. I did it by mistake.

Fig. 16 - Coating the upper caliper pin with high temp. grease


STEP 17

Install the disc rotor(if removed).

Install the caliper mount bracket (be sure to apply Anti-Seize on the threads of the caliper mount bracket bolts), but do not tighten the caliper mount bolts yet. Also, attached the caliper onto the caliper mount bracket via the upper caliper pin (if not attached).

Fig. 17 - Install the rotor and caliper


STEP 18

Install the guide plates. You might have to wait for the upper guide plate to be installed because it must be held up by the brake pads.

Fig. 18 - Guide plates re-installed.


STEP 19

Apply disc brake quiet compound on the back of the shim plates.

Fig. 19 - Apply disc brake quiet compound.


STEP 20

Another reference of the brake quiet compound being applied on the back of the shim plates.

Fig. 20

 

STEP 21

Install the brake pads (don't forget the upper guide plate).

Fig. 21 - Brake pad install.


STEP 22

Install the M-Spring clip (pointer 22a in fig. 22). Then lower the caliper.

Fig. 22 - Install M-Springs


STEP 23

Torque the upper and lower caliper mounting bolts (34-44 ft-lbs.). Torque the lower caliper pin/bolt (Fig. 23). Torque the brake line banjo bolt (16-21 ft-lbs.).

Fig. 23 - Torque things down.


STEP 24

Re-install the parking brake cable mount bracket and re-install the parking brake cable. Re-insert the retaining clip to lock the parking brake cable in place.

Fig. 24 - Parking brake cable re-install


STEP 25

You will have to readjust the piston using the manual adjustment screw. If you have replaced the caliper, then you must remove the manual adjustment plug screw.

Fig. 25 - Remove the adjustment plug screw.

 

STEP 26

Make sure that the parking brake cable is re-installed. When readjusting, make sure there is a slight drag on the rotor when turning it (with the parking brake disabled). When you engage the parking brake, you must be unable to move the rotor. Otherwise, you must make the necessary adjustments. It is recommended that you disengage the parking brake while adjusting the manual adjustment screw.

Fig. 26 - Re-adjustment of the piston.



STEP 27

NOTE: If you have tampered with the brake line (ie. replace the caliper). You must bleed the brakes. Be sure this procedure is not overlooked!

Give your work a once-over check. Pat yourself on the back for a good day's work! Re-install the wheel. Take the car for a spin. Stop on a hill and engage the parking brake. Make any necessary adjustments accordingly.


CONCLUSION

I really had a hard time with those caliper mounting bolts. It felt like I was about to break them (or break my tools which I did! My 14mm socket was cracked!). Be sure to coat them with Anti-Seize for easy removal next time.

The caliper cost me $217CAN each plus taxes with a $100 rebate if you turn over your old caliper.

If you have any questions/comments, post them here (I encourage you to be constructive please ) or e-mail me at the_oz@hotmail.com. Please include in the subject line "Rear Brake Overhaul" because I get a lot of junk e-mail.

FINAL NOTE: If you plan on mirroring this post on a webpage or something, please be courteous enough to give me credit, and please copy and distribute this post in its entirety without any modifications. Thanks

Regards,

Oz

 

you seem to be a very knowlegable person. Could you possibly tell me what the part number is for a 98 protege ES front brake caliper? Thanks!