Mazda3: Oil Change Modification

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Old March-23rd-2005 | 09:45 PM
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Mazda3: Oil Change Modification

I just performed my first oil change on my new 2005 Mazda SP23 (at 300 miles). Before I removed the oil filter, I noticed that there was an access hole for it that looked like they tried to place it to provide access to the filter, but failed (as it is offset by several inches). I immediately cut a section of the plastic guard with a pair of tin snips and my Leatherman's saw to make the hole larger, and now can access the oil filter without having to take the plastic panel off the bottom of the car. It is now the easiest oil change I have ever performed on a vehicle.

-Dax Clark
Old March-29th-2005 | 07:59 PM
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Dax,

I have the same offset access hole in my 2004 Mazda 3s 5-door. That's a good idea to just cut a larger section out. Taking the splash gaurd off takes while. The oil change is really easy to do since the filter is right at the bottom of the engine. How much did they charge for a filter? Mine was about $13.00 I can't find it at any autoparts store, so I have to go to the dealer. I've also been running synthetic Mobil 1 since 8000 miles. You changed it REALLY early. How many miles will you wait now? I'm going to drive about 6000 between changes.

-Michael
Old March-29th-2005 | 08:04 PM
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That is a really good idea. Should make oil changes much more pleasant.
Old March-29th-2005 | 08:12 PM
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nice improvisation

some dealers and assembelers just screw around and getting it done as fast as they can.

good job
Old March-30th-2005 | 11:42 AM
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I changed it at 500 miles, and will change it again at 1,500 miles. At that point, I'll put in synthetic. The first run with synthetic will be relatively short (2000 miles?), as I figure that there will still be some metal shavings left in there from the old oil. When I did change it at 500, it was full of metal shavings. I really wish I had bought the car with zero miles and been able to change it at 20 miles as Power News Magazine recommends
http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

The filter and o-rings (they come together) have cost me just a tad over $7.00 (I think $7.15?) This was the same price at two different dealerships. One in San Diego, and one in Santa Monica.

-Dax
Old April-18th-2005 | 11:00 PM
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Changing the oil that early might be a bad idea. It can keep the bearings, rings, etc. from seating properly. A new engine needs some friction to polish off microscopic burrs in the bearings and crosshatched cylinder walls. Failure to completely seat the rings will allow more combustion blowby. Synthetic is pretty slick stuff so I'd reccomend breaking it in thoroughly before switching.
This is all just my humble opinion, so feel free to torch me if you dissagree. But I have built a few engines and never had an oil-burner or an early low pressure problem.
Old September-14th-2005 | 02:10 PM
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I cut the under tray and used some dzus fasterners to make a removable plate in the tray right under the oil filter. So now instead of removing 10 bolts and messing with the entire under engine tray I just have the four 1/4 turn (Dzus) fastners to turn and presto! Much faster and easier. I don't even need to jack up the car since I use a suction system (Pela Oil Extractor) to remove the oil from the pan via the dipstick tube. And yes, I've done it by removing the plug and I actually get more oil out by using my Pela Oil Extractor than by removing the plug. No jacking up of the car. No mess.
Old September-14th-2005 | 02:53 PM
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thats nuts.
Old September-14th-2005 | 03:01 PM
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That could be taken a couple of different ways.
Old September-14th-2005 | 05:31 PM
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only one way though if you're not in middleschool.
Old September-14th-2005 | 06:24 PM
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