Alignment for autocrossing
#1
Alignment for autocrossing
My friend has a Celica which he usually takes to the autox every month w/ me and some friends...he got some camber bolts and an alignment better suited for autocrossing his car.
I'm not too educated about alignments but what can I do to my Protege as far as an alignment goes?
I don't want anything too drastic that would wear my tires down real fast, since I also use this car as my daily driver.
I'm not too educated about alignments but what can I do to my Protege as far as an alignment goes?
I don't want anything too drastic that would wear my tires down real fast, since I also use this car as my daily driver.
#2
start with zero toe in the rear.
I like to run 1/4" toe out up front for Autocross only- I adjust it at the track.
Adjusting the toe (from zero) is kind of a fine tuning adjustment that should probably be done after you adjust shocks, swaybars, and ride height (if possible). On a Stock class car, this is more important since you usually can't adjust too much other stuff. For STS it is not as important as getting the rest of your suspension setup. Be sure to test your suspension with zero toe front and back. Keep in mind, ride height adjustments also change the camber and toe, so you have to check those things throughout the tuning process.
I like to run 1/4" toe out up front for Autocross only- I adjust it at the track.
Adjusting the toe (from zero) is kind of a fine tuning adjustment that should probably be done after you adjust shocks, swaybars, and ride height (if possible). On a Stock class car, this is more important since you usually can't adjust too much other stuff. For STS it is not as important as getting the rest of your suspension setup. Be sure to test your suspension with zero toe front and back. Keep in mind, ride height adjustments also change the camber and toe, so you have to check those things throughout the tuning process.
#4
I use the "coke can method" - I've posted it before so you can do a search. It's not laser accurate, but you'll get close to what you want.
I go to the site with zero toe (either measured from a Professionally set Alignment or a coke can alignment in the garage. Then on the front driver's side wheel, I adjust the toe out. (You only need to do one side). You do this by loosening the stop nut on (I guess it is) the steering rack rod. Then turn the hex-shaped rod usually 1.5 or 2 turns to set the toe out. Tighten the stop nut, and you are all set. Throw the race tires on. Do a coke can measurement to be sure you went the right direction. Then go race.
Then after the race, just do the same but rotate the hex rod back the other direction 1.5-2 turns. Do a coke can measurement before you load up the car to go home to make sure your alignment is OK for the ride home. I like to check it when I get back home in the garage since it is a much flatter surface than most Autocross pit spaces.
I know it is a bit of work to do, so you may not want to do it at every race, especially if you are running late.
I go to the site with zero toe (either measured from a Professionally set Alignment or a coke can alignment in the garage. Then on the front driver's side wheel, I adjust the toe out. (You only need to do one side). You do this by loosening the stop nut on (I guess it is) the steering rack rod. Then turn the hex-shaped rod usually 1.5 or 2 turns to set the toe out. Tighten the stop nut, and you are all set. Throw the race tires on. Do a coke can measurement to be sure you went the right direction. Then go race.
Then after the race, just do the same but rotate the hex rod back the other direction 1.5-2 turns. Do a coke can measurement before you load up the car to go home to make sure your alignment is OK for the ride home. I like to check it when I get back home in the garage since it is a much flatter surface than most Autocross pit spaces.
I know it is a bit of work to do, so you may not want to do it at every race, especially if you are running late.
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