I've recently been having problems starting my mazda. Sometimes it starts and idles really low for a second then shuts off and then will start fine. Other times it takes 5 to 10 seconds for it to turn over and runs fine. Then other times it starts perfectly fine. I brought it to a local garage and they changed the spark plugs and thats not the problem. I brought it again today and they cleaned the throttle body, and said they cant find anything mechanically wrong with it! It seems to be getting worse and taking longer and longer to start and mainly seems to happen when the engine is cold. Has anyone experienced a similiar problem or have any idea what could possibly be wrong?

Thanks
Mike

 

Check engine light on? It probably should be on, I would have the car checked for diagnostic codes. Knowing what codes you hav should provide a clue about what to check for locating the problem.

Clifton

 

There's no check engine light and there's no codes showing up. It keeps gettin worse now it won't start the first time and second time it turns over right away!

 

Just to revive this thread. I'm also experiencing this lately, specially in the early mornings when the temperature is around 15-18 degrees celsius here in Doha (winter in approaching). But if I start it in the late morning or afternoon, it starts normally. But in the early mornings, it will start then stalls, the second try usually brings it on and takes about 5mins for the engine to warm up. The battery was only a year old though I haven't brought it yet to the dealer to have it check if the problem is in my fuel pump. Mazda 3 '07 hatchback A/T. No check engine light is going on so I suppose this was caused by the cold weather, hopefully.

 

2004-2005 Mazda3 - 2.0 and 2.3L engines, both Federal and California specification

Some vehicles may experience an engine with hard starting (cranks but takes 10 seconds or longer to start). The condition is more likely after vehicle sits overnight or for an extended time. Rough idle may occur just after the engine is started.
This may be caused by fouled spark plugs if the vehicle is frequently driven in stop-and-go conditions, such as in heavy traffic. In some cases, foreign debris may get stuck in the pressure regulator valve of the fuel pump, and cause fuel holding pressure to drop below specification.
Customers having this concern should have their vehicles repaired using the following repair procedure.

1. Check fuel hold pressure after turning the engine OFF for 5 minutes or longer. Refer to Workshop Manual (section 01-14 FUEL LINE PRESSURE INSPECTION). Specification is 36.2 psi or more.
If below specification, check fuel line for clogging. If fuel line is clear, replace fuel pump according to Workshop Manual (section 01-14 FUEL PUMP UNIT REMOVAL/INSTALLATION).
If fuel hold pressure is okay, check spark plugs for fouling.
If fouled, replace spark plugs with modified plugs.
If not fouled, perform normal diagnostics according to Workshop Manual (section 01-03 NO.4 HARD TO START/LONG CRANK/ERRATIC START/ERRATIC CRANK).
2. Verify repair.

hope it helps

 

I've done some testing for my early morning start ups. What I do now is insert the key and put it up to "ON" only, I usually wait for about a minute before cranking it up and never experienced the hard/rough start since then.

One thing I've noticed is that regardless of what time of the day I start my car, I notice that the temperature indicator hand is way below the "C" line. Is this normal or there is really something wrong with my car?

 

it depends on the temp outside, but after having the engine running for few hours it retains some of the heat, I doubt that in winter will stay above the "c"line, problem should be if it doesn't goes but after few mins of engine running

 

Knowell, perhaps it is taking a while for your fuel pressure to build. Putting the ignition to "on" probably turns on the electric fuel pump. By waiting, you are allowing the pressure to build enough to get the car started.

And this is one of the causes the MedievalKnight mentioned in Post #5 - low fuel pressure.

 

I'll have the fuel pump checked during my next regular maintenance. and also, thanks for pointing out the probable faulty spark plugs. This is my first car so I'm still kinda OC when it comes to these matters as I basically have no knowledge of car maintenance specially involving anything under the hood.

I appreciate the prompt replies and for pointing out probable causes.

 

Had the same problem with my 2005 mazda 3, i had it diagnosed and i was told that the fuel regulator is broken. Its not providing enough pressure to have the engine start specially in the morning. The mechanic also checked the fuel pump and it working perfectly fine plus i had the fuel filter also replaced.

Can anyone here please help me where i can get the fuel regulator? Because i was told it only available with the fuel pump assembly if i get it from the casa which is too expensive and over my budget.

Does anyone know where i can buy and how much it would cost with or with out the fuel pump/fuel gauge/fuel pressure regulator.

 

Im checking out the Herko pumps on Ebay. Just ordered one for my 2004 i with CA emissions. only thing is, can't tell if is right pump for CA emissions. vague note about "has 2 fuel connections to ensure correct fit", will find out. was "only" $84 compared to $500 plus elsewhere.
Having same intermittent symptoms: Crank and crank and crank. I think it helps to turn key on, pause, turn off, turn on, pause, a few times to ensure fuel pressure, but my wife, who drives the car the most, doesn't think it helps. Changed the purge valve with no improvement, new plugs, no improvement. Also can act starved for fuel in high power situations which makes me think fuel pump too. Car sat for a while with old gas when it was wrecked. might have dirty fuel injectors. tried adding cleaner in tank with questionable effect. I plan to post how the Herko works out.

 

Did you check the injectors for clogged screens? I had that problem with one cylinder misfiring and losing power on a 96 honda accord. fortunately I could pull the fuel rail off fairly easily and I used compressed air on the screens which i could pull them off without damage and reinsert them after blowing them off with the compressed air. The results were like night and day after I cleaned the injectors screens like that. If you have high mileage then the pump may be going bad too.

 

I am having the same issue with my 2005 Mazda 3 2.3L sedan! It has 135K miles, but the darn car needs to crank, crank, pause, crank and then turns on. To help get the car started, slightly pressing the gas pedal helped turn the car on. Friend of mine had the same issue with his Mazda 3 hatchback 2.3L. He replaced the fuel pump and that fixed the issue. Man, $380 ($365+tax) is what I'm looking at for the fuel pump WITH the CA emissions thing (eBay, part#: Airtex e8589m) . Hope that by me replacing the fuel pump, the issues end since it's my wife that drives the car as well. I'll reply back to say whether it resolved the issue or not.... *fingers are hella-crossed*

 

Do as flash75 tells you.