ECU Reset
#1
ECU Reset
Hey guys, New Poster,
I have an 06 Mazda 3i, 2.0 Liter, manual Tranny, no ABS, no AC, or power options.
Yesterday I changed out the spark plugs for some of the bosch PLatinum irridium +4 Fusion plugs. I disconnected and completely removed the battery, but didn't pump the brakes or turn on the lights. i used a Torque wrench to precisely tighten the plugs to manufacturer specs. After I got everything back together I took the car out for a drive and it was running absolutely horrible, it was backfiring, the engine was dropping off at shift points it felt like it was going to stall a couple of times, I thought maybe the car just needed to be driven to allow the ECU to properly reset, it did seemingly get better as the day went on, but i went under the hood several times to check the plug wire connections, to make sure there wasn't a loose connection. Now I drove it for a total of about an hour and a half yesterday after the change. I got in the car this morning and drove it around today, it felt better, it has stopped the backfiring and the feeling like it was going to stall, however the engine still seems to drop off when I shift from first to second.
Getting to the point, Usually how long does it take for the computer to completely reprogram itself? should I keep waiting for the car to clear itself up or should I start considering that I did something wrong and have the car looked at or switch the stock plugs back in . . .
Another consideration, when I was reinstalling the battery, I dropped a nut to the left and it got stuck underneath that electronics cluster and i used a rather strong magnet to pick the nut up, is there any chance that the magnet screwed with any of the electronics in that box . . .
I have an 06 Mazda 3i, 2.0 Liter, manual Tranny, no ABS, no AC, or power options.
Yesterday I changed out the spark plugs for some of the bosch PLatinum irridium +4 Fusion plugs. I disconnected and completely removed the battery, but didn't pump the brakes or turn on the lights. i used a Torque wrench to precisely tighten the plugs to manufacturer specs. After I got everything back together I took the car out for a drive and it was running absolutely horrible, it was backfiring, the engine was dropping off at shift points it felt like it was going to stall a couple of times, I thought maybe the car just needed to be driven to allow the ECU to properly reset, it did seemingly get better as the day went on, but i went under the hood several times to check the plug wire connections, to make sure there wasn't a loose connection. Now I drove it for a total of about an hour and a half yesterday after the change. I got in the car this morning and drove it around today, it felt better, it has stopped the backfiring and the feeling like it was going to stall, however the engine still seems to drop off when I shift from first to second.
Getting to the point, Usually how long does it take for the computer to completely reprogram itself? should I keep waiting for the car to clear itself up or should I start considering that I did something wrong and have the car looked at or switch the stock plugs back in . . .
Another consideration, when I was reinstalling the battery, I dropped a nut to the left and it got stuck underneath that electronics cluster and i used a rather strong magnet to pick the nut up, is there any chance that the magnet screwed with any of the electronics in that box . . .
#3
NGK copper here.. they might not last as long as iridiums, but I change my spark plugs far too often to need that longevity. I change them every other oil change (or sooner) so the copper lasts. I had iridiums but they didn't last me as long as they are said to because they just got a ton of carbon deposits on them.
#4
+2 for NGK. Don't ask questions, just swap them out .. cuz no one really has a definite answer behind it. As Roddimus said the IX Iridiums would be a good choice (about $30 for all 4), or even the Platinums would be fine.
#6
NGKs plug wires are pretty awesome, but you have a Mazda3 so no plug wires (unless just the 2.3 is like that)
#9
with a turbo car I'd suggest the coppers anyway. There's a few reasons why.
Like you stated earlier changing the plugs more frequently in a turbo car is ideal. It's a great way to inspect each individual cylinder to see how it's combustion looks.
Secondly, Copper plugs dissipate heat faster removing excess heat from the combustion chamber that can cause pre-detonation in some situations.
I only suggest the IX's in NA vehicles and suggest replacing them at least once a year. I do mine more than that but once a year shouldn't break anyone's bank.
Like you stated earlier changing the plugs more frequently in a turbo car is ideal. It's a great way to inspect each individual cylinder to see how it's combustion looks.
Secondly, Copper plugs dissipate heat faster removing excess heat from the combustion chamber that can cause pre-detonation in some situations.
I only suggest the IX's in NA vehicles and suggest replacing them at least once a year. I do mine more than that but once a year shouldn't break anyone's bank.
#10
spark plug connections . . .
Yeah some people drop like 45 dollars on some wild bullshit Bosche --I spend $7.55 for all four copper NGKs (why bother with long lasting, our cars are so painless for changing plugs).
NGKs plug wires are pretty awesome, but you have a Mazda3 so no plug wires (unless just the 2.3 is like that)
NGKs plug wires are pretty awesome, but you have a Mazda3 so no plug wires (unless just the 2.3 is like that)
You bring up another good point, the 2.0 liter doesn't have the typical plug wires either, I was wondering, can you replace the factory style cables, with some solid old fashioned clean looking plug wires . . .
or do the little factory wires go directly into the computer . . .
#11
You bring up another good point, the 2.0 liter doesn't have the typical plug wires either, I was wondering, can you replace the factory style cables, with some solid old fashioned clean looking plug wires . . .
or do the little factory wires go directly into the computer . . .
or do the little factory wires go directly into the computer . . .
#12
I just hate the look of those loose little wires though, lol, they could've atleast wraped them together in what would've appeared to be a typical spark plug wire, and then seperated them in the coil . . .
#15
no, if you've even looked at the way these engines are set up, you know there is no way to mix up these wires unless you like completely tear down the motor, that and I changed one plug at a time, refastening the boot after each plug was replaced, meaning I didn't just unplug all four wires and change the plugs, I put the wire right back on when I finished each cylinder.
but anyways, the car is running fine now, I think its just that my last two cars didn't have any ECU So I wasn't used to the car taking that long to re-adjust after the reset. I'm trying to find out where I could get some NGK plugs around here, will I have to order them and have them shipped or are there any retail stores in the Boston area that sell them?
o and when I went to the NGK website, the only plugs they had for my car were the irridiums, they didn't show any coppers like you guys were talking about. Is that just because I have the 2.0 instead of the 2.3?
Because the NGK irridiums were listed at like $12 which is no cheaper than the BOSCH, but I'm still going to switch them since everyone here recomends the NGK. and one other thing is that the stock plugs I pulled out weren't NGk, but they were FoMoCo (I'm guessing Ford Motor Company) part number ILTR5A 13G. Does the 2.3 come with these same plugs? or does the 2.3 come with NGK's?
but anyways, the car is running fine now, I think its just that my last two cars didn't have any ECU So I wasn't used to the car taking that long to re-adjust after the reset. I'm trying to find out where I could get some NGK plugs around here, will I have to order them and have them shipped or are there any retail stores in the Boston area that sell them?
o and when I went to the NGK website, the only plugs they had for my car were the irridiums, they didn't show any coppers like you guys were talking about. Is that just because I have the 2.0 instead of the 2.3?
Because the NGK irridiums were listed at like $12 which is no cheaper than the BOSCH, but I'm still going to switch them since everyone here recomends the NGK. and one other thing is that the stock plugs I pulled out weren't NGk, but they were FoMoCo (I'm guessing Ford Motor Company) part number ILTR5A 13G. Does the 2.3 come with these same plugs? or does the 2.3 come with NGK's?
Last edited by shep61487; August-14th-2007 at 10:50 AM.