Synthetic Oil, or no?
#17
Yes, I would recommend it. Since there's really no way of knowing what contaminants may have entered the engine from the time of assembly 'til it got to you and since it probably left the factory with standard motor oil, then I'd say change it that first 3,000. Better safe than sorry.
#19
Remember if you go to a Full-Synthetic Motor Oil, You cannot switch back to regular Motor oil. I personaly have always ran a Synthetic Blend. This way you can switch back if needed for any reason, and you still get the benefits of synthetic oil. If you choose to go with a full synthetic check into Royal Purple.
This is the web Site http://www.royalpurple.com/
This is the web Site http://www.royalpurple.com/
I just purchased a 2010 Mazda3 Hatchback. I noticed in the owners manual there wasn't a synthetic oil recommend, so i emailed Mazda. They said that they do not recommend synthetic oil due to they have no longevity numbers. Using a synthetic oil can void your warranty, especially if the problem relates to a engine problem.
I just bought a 2011 Mazda 3 grand touring S like 4 months ago! I have 3400 miles now and I'm about to get my first oil change.... And while signing the papers when purchasing the car the dealer told me to get the maintainence package because the car requires synthetic oil????? Is that true???? I want synthetic oil but I don't wanna get a surprise when I get there and they try to put regular oil in?? Help please!
Thanks, Greg
Thanks, Greg
Greg,
The owner's manual doesn't state anywhere that the vehicle requires synthetic oil. When I took my car in for its first oil change, which is the same year and model as yours, I had to tell them I wanted the synthetic oil otherwise they would have put the regular oil in it that came in it from the factory. They did say it showed it as an "option." Sounds like your salesperson used a poor way of getting you to buy the maintenance package. He should have just sold you on what a great value it is rather than making a false statement like that. It is a good value and I definitely recommend the maintenance package and would have purchased it myself had it been available when I purchased my car, but unfortunately they didn't come out with that package til a months later.
So, bottom line is if you bought the maintenance package then thats good, but either way just to be safe be sure to specify you want the synthetic oil when you take it in if it is in fact what you want, which I personally recommend. Also, be aware that they may still try to schedule your oil changes for every 3,000 miles when actually that's a waste, as 5,000 miles will do you just fine and still is probably overkill. The owner's manual calls for 5,000 miles in extreme environments and 7,500 in normal conditions with regular oil. Just to be safe I recommend sticking with every 5,000 miles regardless of conditions. The 3,000 mile mark is a hold over from the old days when engine tolerances weren't near as precise as today and the technology of oil production and its properties involving thermal breakdown, etc. weren't near as advanced as today. So if you want ultimate protection, 5,000 miles with synthetic oil will keep your engine lubricated and clean for decades to come.
The owner's manual doesn't state anywhere that the vehicle requires synthetic oil. When I took my car in for its first oil change, which is the same year and model as yours, I had to tell them I wanted the synthetic oil otherwise they would have put the regular oil in it that came in it from the factory. They did say it showed it as an "option." Sounds like your salesperson used a poor way of getting you to buy the maintenance package. He should have just sold you on what a great value it is rather than making a false statement like that. It is a good value and I definitely recommend the maintenance package and would have purchased it myself had it been available when I purchased my car, but unfortunately they didn't come out with that package til a months later.
So, bottom line is if you bought the maintenance package then thats good, but either way just to be safe be sure to specify you want the synthetic oil when you take it in if it is in fact what you want, which I personally recommend. Also, be aware that they may still try to schedule your oil changes for every 3,000 miles when actually that's a waste, as 5,000 miles will do you just fine and still is probably overkill. The owner's manual calls for 5,000 miles in extreme environments and 7,500 in normal conditions with regular oil. Just to be safe I recommend sticking with every 5,000 miles regardless of conditions. The 3,000 mile mark is a hold over from the old days when engine tolerances weren't near as precise as today and the technology of oil production and its properties involving thermal breakdown, etc. weren't near as advanced as today. So if you want ultimate protection, 5,000 miles with synthetic oil will keep your engine lubricated and clean for decades to come.
Hope that helps guys!
#22
I don't understand how it wouldn't drain out, it's still a liquid... Just do a normal oil change and you should be fine. The small amount of the wrong oil in the engine should be insignificant.
BTW - something on topic for the thread - I've got 215K miles on my 2007 mazda 3 GT, all I've used for oil (except for about 2 changes early on) is the conventional 5W20 from walmart (super tech) and fram cartridge filters (cheapest EBAY option). Changed at 1K miles, then 3K intervals until 10k, then to 5k mile intervals with a filter on almost every change.
The only problem engine wise is the valve cover gasket is oozing a bit, but it doesn't loose any oil. I don't have a burning oil problem, original serpentine belt & all pulleys, and the transmission (manual) oil is original. Only had to change the thermostat at 111k as it stuck open, it now eats a little coolant (started at ~190k).
BTW - something on topic for the thread - I've got 215K miles on my 2007 mazda 3 GT, all I've used for oil (except for about 2 changes early on) is the conventional 5W20 from walmart (super tech) and fram cartridge filters (cheapest EBAY option). Changed at 1K miles, then 3K intervals until 10k, then to 5k mile intervals with a filter on almost every change.
The only problem engine wise is the valve cover gasket is oozing a bit, but it doesn't loose any oil. I don't have a burning oil problem, original serpentine belt & all pulleys, and the transmission (manual) oil is original. Only had to change the thermostat at 111k as it stuck open, it now eats a little coolant (started at ~190k).
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