2010 Mazda 3 - Power door lock Kits
#1
2010 Mazda 3 - Power door lock Kits
Hi I'm new here! Looking to install Power door (and trunk) locks and an alarm system on my 2010 Mazda 3.
I have been looking at the W02C-740T made by A1 electric, and wanted to know if anyone has used these for their Mazda. I know that the wiring can be pretty tricky for the power lock install, but I kind of want to know if the alarm system is any good as well....
has anyone used one of these kits? / maybe something similar by A1?
Link:
https://www.a1electric.com/Merchant2...Code=W02C-740T
Thanks for any help in advance!
Marc
I have been looking at the W02C-740T made by A1 electric, and wanted to know if anyone has used these for their Mazda. I know that the wiring can be pretty tricky for the power lock install, but I kind of want to know if the alarm system is any good as well....
has anyone used one of these kits? / maybe something similar by A1?
Link:
https://www.a1electric.com/Merchant2...Code=W02C-740T
Thanks for any help in advance!
Marc
#2
2010 Mazda 3 Sport: Power Locks use cable-based actuators
I've had the same problem on my recently-purchased 2010 Mazda 3 Sport. If you succeeded, please post. Here is my experience so far.
I bought an inexpensive generic rod-based kit (around $20), with harness and actuators, etc whose electrical connections were reasonably clear, but I knew I would not be able to open the door panels. The guy who said he could install it, a mechanic who normally does repairs, when he opened the driver's side door found that it contained cables, not rods. He eventually figured out how to retrofit while permitting the manual key to work, but then realized that there was no space to mount the actuator. He thinks that the manufacturer's power lock kit must replace part of the cables, rather than being an add-on.
I suspect that the successful installers use the manufacturer's power lock kit, which explains the $750 cost (which likely is not inflated).
I bought an inexpensive generic rod-based kit (around $20), with harness and actuators, etc whose electrical connections were reasonably clear, but I knew I would not be able to open the door panels. The guy who said he could install it, a mechanic who normally does repairs, when he opened the driver's side door found that it contained cables, not rods. He eventually figured out how to retrofit while permitting the manual key to work, but then realized that there was no space to mount the actuator. He thinks that the manufacturer's power lock kit must replace part of the cables, rather than being an add-on.
I suspect that the successful installers use the manufacturer's power lock kit, which explains the $750 cost (which likely is not inflated).
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