My son has a 2010 Mazda3 that came without power door locks. I took the vehicle to a company that installs alarms and remote starters and was advised that they would be able to install power locks and keyless remote entry. After leaving the car there for a couple of weeks, the technician informed us that he could not successfully install the power locks. Bear with me here folks, as I can only give the information as it was given to me: the wire that operates the locking mechanism (which is inside a rigid plastic tube that he removed a portion of to expose the wire) is a very thin braided wire. He attached it to the actuator but 1)was afraid if he clamped down on it too tightly it would snap in short order 2)would only operate intermittently if he didn't clamp down tightly

Long story short, we got the car back still with manual locks.

Surely someone has successfully installed power locks in the 2010 Mazda3 and can give me some guidance???

Thanks in advance,
Susan

 

is this so your remote lock / unlock works, or just for in the car buttons to lock / unlock?

If they can't install it, go somewhere with more electrical experience, it shouldn't be that big of a deal.

 

Agreed. The real problem is with the installer.

Welcome to the club, Susan!

 

Thanks for the insight. I did take the car to another shop, and 3 days and $750 dollars later, it is done. My son now has power locks and keyless entry.

I appreciate your feedback.
~Susan

 

with the key, the drivers door is all that does anything. With the remote, unlock once does just the drivers door, a second unlock within 5 seconds or so unlocks all the doors. Any press of the lock button locks all doors, and a second lock within 5 seconds or so relocks and beeps the horn.
If the vehicle was locked the unlock button flashes the parking lights twice, otherwise it just unlocks. If the vehicle was unlocked, the lock button flashes the corner locks just once.
So if it appears to be not working, make sure the lights flash and horn beep to verify the system is getting a signal.

I've had the lights flash to arm the system when the car is closed, recently unlocked / disarmed, and I close the trunk - haven't figured that part out quite yet.

 

Hi Susan,
Where did you go to install the keyless entry for your son's car? Would you mind to tell me? I need to find the place to help me with the installation.
Thanks,
Kira

 

hi susan,
i have the same problem with my mazda 3 2010, i just brought it to a shop and install the power locks and keyless entry,he put lot of connection and it works,it costs me 760 dollars for the four doors and the trunk release.but when i bring my car home i just realize that my manual door lock dont work anymore,i bring it back to him and ask why,he said he take the wire that connects to it and put to actuator that he install,he said it is impossible to make it work the same time,i really dont satisfied what happen.do you know or anybody here know where i can bring my car to check it.and can you give idea what im gonna do.thanks

 

I'm glad you have your sons fixed, I have same problem with my. Can I ask you where did you take yours? I'm in LA

 

Well that's lame. The issue is the same for the 1st and 2nd gen 3' (and probably most Mazda vehicles). Namely that Mazdas use cable driven locks and most power locking kits are rod driven. The solution is a little connector attached to the rod which clamps on to the cable. It generally takes a little trial and error to get the actuator in the correct place so that it moves the cable far enough but not too far.

So it's certainly possible to have power locks without severing the cable in order to do it. Perhaps the installer used a different kit and had to jerry rig something. Perhaps they just weren't very good.

 

Hey guys, I've been struggling with trying to get power locks installed in my 2010 Mazda 3 for about two months now. I've taken it to three different places and finally found someone who has been successful. They got three of the doors working; however, apparently one of the other places I've taken it to has damaged the locking cable and made it impossible for them to finish the last door.

Long story short, they stripped the rigid tube that surrounds the cable and I'm going to have to find a new cable in a junkyard/online/etc. Does anyone know the part number for the entire cable or if that rigid tube has a separate part number?

Additionally, is installing that cable something I could do by myself?

Thanks!

 

You should be able to get that from the dealer, it isn't a part that online stores are likely to have. Actually, you should be able to ask the install place to get you another cable - since they broke your door when they were doing the work... so its really their fault for not completing the job / doing it correctly.

You can do it yourself though, taking the door panel apart isn't too difficult - but you do need to take the window out to get the inner panel apart... it's just two bolts that hold the bottom of the window. The cable basically snaps into place, but you may need to open another door to see how it's supposed to fit in.

 

Okay great. Yeah I talked to a parts vendor in NC that I've seen people link (http://www.onlinemazdaparts.com/) and they guy directed me to the part I would need.. so I went ahead and bought that. I'm getting tired of waiting on dealership people here in town.

I've already got the door panel off, I guess the next step is figuring out how to remove that inner panel/the window. The part should be here tomorrow or Saturday, hopefully I'll be able to install it by myself.

 

The problem was not the installer at all, as I am a 12 volt installer myself. The problem is with the manufacturer, just like most newer cars have gone to an insulated cable to operate the lock/unlock mechanism. Aftermarket door lock actuators come with a rod, much like ALL your older vehicles had. As time goes on this issue will be resolved, because as always the industry will adapt. The high cost of adding power door locks to this car is with the $250.00 per actuator that the dealer is asking.