Bazooka Tube Installation---Please Help
#1
Bazooka Tube Installation---Please Help
OK. So i get this Bazooka Tube (Model EL) 100watts, nothing crazy, and i have the Bazooka F.A.S.T. connectors that splice directly into the car radio. But when i go and turn it on there is no bass. I have the speaker wires connected correctly, but not sure of where the red and blue with white stripe go. Does anyone know what i am talking about?
#2
the blue with white stripe should be the remote switching wire, to tell the internal amp to switch on - the red wire probably needs to go to the battery for constant power? did the thing come with installation guide?
#3
It did not come with an installation guide. I just don't know what id the power wire and where the blue wire goes. There are no blue, or red wires connecting to the stereo. Do you think i need to connect it directly to the battery? I though tthis was going to be an easy process. I'm mechanicallt inclined, but i's never done this before. Thanks.
#4
#5
Well....
I already have the manual. Thanks for getting it anyway, but i think my issue is that i need a diagram of the wiring. I think that's what's throwing me off. I'm not sure where the power goes, and if i should connect it directly to the battery, or the radio. The wiring harness that i got is supposed to make it really easy for leased cars, but it's taken 5 hours. So easy! I figured i'd get on this blog to see if anyone has a mazda3 and has hooked up anything to their stock radio. Thanks.
#7
If this doesn't help, Your unit is bad (that what she said)
The Bazooka is pretty straight forward. How would you hook a normal amplafier? It's the same thing. Red= constant 12V power, black=grounding cable(fry an O ring at the end of black wire and use a self drilling metal screw to secure to metal in trunk under carpet). Blue wire is your remote turn-on, without this wire connected properly, the amp will NOT turn on when your cd player turns on, ergo when you turn your car on with the radio on, the Bazooka will do nothing. Sauder all wire connections ie, constant power, ground wire with the 'O'ring connector, speaker negative, speaker positive, remote wire to the remote wire coming from the cd player harness (cd player shoots the small signal to turn on amp, not the battery. After you KNOW all connections are clean and proper, and your getting power to your amp, it's turning on when your deck turns on, and nothing has blown up, then comes trouble shooting of the units during playback.
Sorry if this seems elementary, as I don't know tour level of car audio knowledge!
1- check the gain **** on the bazooka, twist it back and forth while a song with some bass is playing through your cd player at a reasonable volume, if the bass intensifies, congratulations, you win. set it where you want it.
2-check the LOW pass filter that may be integrated in your cd player. LOW pass alows only those low frequencies to pass through to the sub.
3- Some after-market decks have a toggle or button for Subwoofers, this probably doesn't apply since I have only seen this a few times, anyway turn it ON.
4- check the in-line fuse that is bridging your red power cable together. If it has blown, the element will have seperated and no power will get to the amp. In this case, disconnect your power (red) power cable from battery and install the new fuse and re-connect.
5- If you still have problems, pay a pro!!
Good luck, I have the same unit 8", and it really never ceases to amaze me how much thump these little guys put out.
Let me know how it goes, as I have'nt written this much since my last research paper!
Sorry if this seems elementary, as I don't know tour level of car audio knowledge!
1- check the gain **** on the bazooka, twist it back and forth while a song with some bass is playing through your cd player at a reasonable volume, if the bass intensifies, congratulations, you win. set it where you want it.
2-check the LOW pass filter that may be integrated in your cd player. LOW pass alows only those low frequencies to pass through to the sub.
3- Some after-market decks have a toggle or button for Subwoofers, this probably doesn't apply since I have only seen this a few times, anyway turn it ON.
4- check the in-line fuse that is bridging your red power cable together. If it has blown, the element will have seperated and no power will get to the amp. In this case, disconnect your power (red) power cable from battery and install the new fuse and re-connect.
5- If you still have problems, pay a pro!!
Good luck, I have the same unit 8", and it really never ceases to amaze me how much thump these little guys put out.
Let me know how it goes, as I have'nt written this much since my last research paper!
#8
hey
Well the problem isn't the power or the ground. It's which wires connect to which one in the stock radio. This is what i am having trouble with. I think i have the correct grey and white wites connected, but then there's a blue, and a red, and i have no idea where they go. This is why i was asking on this blog, to see if anyone had hooked up a bazooka tube to their stock radio, so i would know where the power and remote wires were in the back of the radio. Thanks again for the in depth novel. i actually hadn't read anything like that since the Cliff's Notes to "To Kill a Mockingbird"! And i have no idea if the bazooka tube even works, is there a way to check to see if it does?
#10
ok.....you have to buy an amp kit just like every other amp run your power wire from the battery....im assuming this one has rca inputs.run the rca's and remote wire from the cd player and ground it in the trunk.....the red is power the black/blue is ground and the blue/white stripe is remote...if these colors are not right post a pic on the plug that plugs into the tube and ill illustrate it for you to make it easier.....i am a certified installer i can help with any of your problems pm me i can give you my number and explain it better over the phone if you want
#11
I think you will find what you need here
http://www.sasbazooka.com/forum/forum.asp?FORUM_ID=7
I think if you posted here you can find someone who can help you more than me. I didn't know what the FAST adapter was, untill I looked it up.
I had a pre-existing power kit that was allready installed from a previous application, so I don't know for sure if you in fact need a power kit, but i would think not, it comes with everything you need to install, unlesss the power cable isn't long enough.
Anyway, an in-line fuse is a one-time circuit breaker for that one power cable that gets current from the battery. Any fluctuation of current up to a certain limit, 15 to 25 amps or so, will cause the fuse to literaly blow. So if you blew your in-line fuse it should be replaced. They are small transparent chip-like units that have two "male" prongs that plug into the "female" fuse holder that is soudered on both sides, connecting the power cable. Its a basic open-closed curcuit system that protects the amp from damage.
Good Luck
I think if you posted here you can find someone who can help you more than me. I didn't know what the FAST adapter was, untill I looked it up.
I had a pre-existing power kit that was allready installed from a previous application, so I don't know for sure if you in fact need a power kit, but i would think not, it comes with everything you need to install, unlesss the power cable isn't long enough.
Anyway, an in-line fuse is a one-time circuit breaker for that one power cable that gets current from the battery. Any fluctuation of current up to a certain limit, 15 to 25 amps or so, will cause the fuse to literaly blow. So if you blew your in-line fuse it should be replaced. They are small transparent chip-like units that have two "male" prongs that plug into the "female" fuse holder that is soudered on both sides, connecting the power cable. Its a basic open-closed curcuit system that protects the amp from damage.
Good Luck
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