Blower resistor
#1
Blower resistor
Hey all. 2005 Mazda 3, 2.3 Litre, auto here.
I've only got one speed on the hvac blower, 4. I'm assuming it's the resistor pack of which I've read is nasty to replace. Anyone with any tips or a how to?
I've got a wiring diagram (from Autozone.com) and was thinking, if I can get the fan control panel out easy enough and get at the wiring, cut the wires and splice in a new resistor pack. I'd have to leave the number 4 wire going straight to the blower and also connecting it to the new resistor. Then cutting the other 3 that go to the original resistor pack. The only thing is that one wire cant be cut before the other splices going to the defroster and a/c switches. Those 2 are in parallel with the number 1 wire from the switch. If the wires to those switches can be located easy enough and the cuts made in the proper places, I cant see why this wouldnt work. I'd then mount the new resistor pack somewhere out of the way. The reason I'm looking for alternative ways is that I've heard the dash has to come out to replace this part, which is completely insane.
Ideas, opinions?
I've only got one speed on the hvac blower, 4. I'm assuming it's the resistor pack of which I've read is nasty to replace. Anyone with any tips or a how to?
I've got a wiring diagram (from Autozone.com) and was thinking, if I can get the fan control panel out easy enough and get at the wiring, cut the wires and splice in a new resistor pack. I'd have to leave the number 4 wire going straight to the blower and also connecting it to the new resistor. Then cutting the other 3 that go to the original resistor pack. The only thing is that one wire cant be cut before the other splices going to the defroster and a/c switches. Those 2 are in parallel with the number 1 wire from the switch. If the wires to those switches can be located easy enough and the cuts made in the proper places, I cant see why this wouldnt work. I'd then mount the new resistor pack somewhere out of the way. The reason I'm looking for alternative ways is that I've heard the dash has to come out to replace this part, which is completely insane.
Ideas, opinions?
#2
I would expect to see the resistors on a wire harness, so unplug the old and install the new. I'd avoid cutting wires...
The resistors need to be cooled - usually in the airstream of the blower, I'd also expect for it to be relatively easy access, under the dash is probably the closest spot to the blower, but it is not an easy place to get to in any case since it's dead center in the dash.
The resistors need to be cooled - usually in the airstream of the blower, I'd also expect for it to be relatively easy access, under the dash is probably the closest spot to the blower, but it is not an easy place to get to in any case since it's dead center in the dash.
#3
The reason I considered alternatives is the procedure I've read about starts with removing the doors, then the entire dash to get at the resistor pack and some people paying $1000 to have the job done. Maybe I've been ill informed?
Has anyone replaced this on a Mazda 3?
Has anyone replaced this on a Mazda 3?
#4
Nobody with any information or experience with the problem?
I called a dealer, for that model year the dash has to come out to replace the resistor. The part is $23, labour is about $500. The idiot who designed that should be shot.
I'm going to get the part and look into mounting it outside of the blower, maybe cool it with a heatsink and small fan. To spend over $500 to get back the low fan speeds is insane.
I called a dealer, for that model year the dash has to come out to replace the resistor. The part is $23, labour is about $500. The idiot who designed that should be shot.
I'm going to get the part and look into mounting it outside of the blower, maybe cool it with a heatsink and small fan. To spend over $500 to get back the low fan speeds is insane.
#5
According to my shop manual, you can get to the resistor pack from the drivers side of the center console.
Remove the accelerator pedal & left side cover of the center console - the part just to the right of the accelerator.
It's a 4-pin connector with a hex screw on the top and a normal screw on the bottom - with 'gum tape' around the screws to hold them in place / seal them.
BTW, one end of that resistor pack is a fuse, so if that blew, the rest of the pack may work properly.
good luck, if you need more info I may be able to scan in the couple pages of the book.
Remove the accelerator pedal & left side cover of the center console - the part just to the right of the accelerator.
It's a 4-pin connector with a hex screw on the top and a normal screw on the bottom - with 'gum tape' around the screws to hold them in place / seal them.
BTW, one end of that resistor pack is a fuse, so if that blew, the rest of the pack may work properly.
good luck, if you need more info I may be able to scan in the couple pages of the book.
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