Hello everyone, i just signed up to this forums.
Im having a big problem.... my g/f's 2004 MAZDA 3's check engine light keeps coming ON!!! and the car bogs when i accelerate from 0 any help please??
The car was at the dealership for warranty for over 2 months trying to fix the problem and they treated us like sh!+... The have replaced most the 02 and MAF sensors, even the radiator coolant sensor but the problem continues. The even replaced the cars computer and the check engine light is still on the the car still bogs at stop and goes accelerations. The recomended to change the sparkplugs and fuel injectors but wanted to charge me $300 for the job because they said it wasnt covered i said screw them ill do it my self.... CHanged the spark plugs and the problem still continues!!!! maybe its the fuel pump? they keep telling me their computer cant register what code the check engine is throwing. The car feels really slugish, its only on low RPMS though and when i floor it it does it quickly then it accelerates normally but its anoying... somebody please help ! anyone with a similar problem?? in what direction should a steer to fix the problem??? thanks

 

Sorry to hear about your problem, here r a few things. First off any problem that your car has under warrenty SHOULD BE covered under warrenty. If they think spark plugs could be cause it shouldnt be charged to u at all. 2nd sounds like to me its something in the computer system, since it does it only on take offs that to me rules out a dirty fuel problem. Or also possibly fuel to air intake but to me id definitly see if u cant get em to throw a new computer in for starters since something is def wrong if they cant determine the code. Good luck with this.

 

they did i wrote it up there . This is so frustrating. I am about to draw lemons all over the car and park it in front of the dealership for a few day...

...They even replaced the cars computer and the check engine light is still on the the car still bogs at stop and goes accelerations...

 

i also tried the gas cap thing. Its screwed in completly ,about 20 clicks just to make sure....

 

EGR valve? That could cause some serious 'bogging' if it's clogged. As well, a broken/cracked/disconnect vaccum line could do the same.

What code is it pulling, we might be able to give a better answer if you know what the code reader is saying.

 

here comes the fun and exiting part.... took it to the local pep boys then to the local autozone and neither of them could tap in the cars computer to check fo the check engine code, aparently the car doesnt let the computer do the diagnose, its blocked or something said the mechanic, same problem i had at mazda, to very angry and pissed took the car home and sprayed carb,choke, and throttle body cleaner down that sucker and the bogging stoped hurray for me lol, but now the car feels sluggish throught the whole RPM range, out of one problem into another....

 

HI im a newbie here but have you checked the cat converter, generaly thats what happens if the cat is stopped up, is the car will do that very thing, sometimes depending on how bad its stopped up, your engine will run a little hotter , i would definately have the cat and o2 sensor checked out, maybe this will solve your problems

 

Hi, I work at Identifix. We provide a program to techs so they dont' have to start swapping parts unnecessarily. Imagine that.

Anyway, the Mazda 3 has a few records on it that pertain to bogging or hesitation. This is what I found:

1. Possible jumped timing chain. 1. Check the camshaft timing to determine if the timing chain may have jumped. With the valve cover off, place a flat bar across the back of the head and into the slots on the camshafts. With the bar in place, verify that the crankshaft position sensor is aligned with the tooth on the front pulley and that the line up bolt can be installed through the front pulley and into the timing cover. If things don’t line up, the timing chain has jumped.

2. Double check the MAF sensor reading at normal idle. A good reading would be about 3 g/s. If the MAF sensor is reading 4.9 at idle try cleaning it. Mazda also has TSB 01-006/06 that addresses a potential MAF sensor ground problem and a terminal repair kit.

2. Block off the purge hose and recheck the fuel trim. If the fuel trim is now reading normal the purge solenoid may be stuck open. Mazda also has TSB 01-052/06 for a possible purge solenoid sticking open, however, those usually cause a lean condition.

Hope that helps.

 

Find a new dealer. If this one isn't finding your problem, find a new one. Frankly fixing this sort of thing shouldn't be that difficult, especially if it is throwing a code.