HELP!!! 2007 Mazda3 AT Trans Problem
February-7th-2020 | 11:34 PM
#61
Registered User
Joined: Feb 2020
Posts: 1
My madza 3 2007
hi today without any warning my madza made this noise and then wouldnt go anywhere.i have been driving alot and far but gave no warning at all everyone is saying might be transmission but couldnt it be something else I was driving on a very bumping road could something have bumped loose that would explain it it starts up and sounds fine but put in any gear and it wont go why ? I am working out of state so I had it towed to nearest repair shop I cant afford a big bill so please need urgent help any suggestions would be great ty
March-27th-2020 | 03:08 AM
#62
Registered User
Joined: Mar 2020
Posts: 1
Mazda 2007 AT light comes on error code P0778 ( should I replace TCM OR the solenoid?
Do anyone know where pressure control Solenoid B is located?
I have the same issue but error code is p0778
anything helps
thanks
Thank you very much
I have the same issue but error code is p0778
anything helps
thanks
Thank you very much
November-17th-2020 | 07:44 PM
#63
Registered User
Joined: Nov 2020
Posts: 1
The Dreaded AT Light on 07 Mazda 3 2.3l
So I currently have an 07 Mazda 3 2 3l. A few months ago I started having issues, beginning with my battery going dead, engine code coming back as dead battery then alternator, then my coolant tank cracking, and my AT light coming on and the car kicking into safe mode (only driving in 3rd gear max). I swear I had nightmares at the thought of a transmission rebuild price. Fortunately I had an honest transmission shop tell me that with all the codes kicking back, and all the issues (oh yeah, I forgot that it was also giving a P0153 Solenoid code--- I may have that number wrong, but I do remember it was a solenoid code) that he highly recommended that I replace the TCM. He also said he recommended that I do it myself, because the part was considerably pricey but installing it was fairly easy. I even told him that I had absolutely ZERO experience with auto repair, and that when my coolant tank cracked I actually DUCT TAPED it as a temporary fix....he still advised me to do it myself as he would not feel comfortable charging anyone for such a simple fix. Luckily I know someone who could follow simple YouTube instructions, whom installed it for me. After TCM was installed, the issues disappeared. That was until (obviously I'm not here to tell you my experience from months ago for nothing) yesterday when that flabbergasted AT light came on AGAIN. My first reaction, contact the company I purchased TCM from (which happens to be a remanufactured piece from My Airbags.com ) as I purchased the part in September 2020, and is covered for a year. They recommended that I do a hard reset on the TCM....🤔 again, no experience here! That's like telling my 8 year old to do my taxes 🤯 like I know how to do a hard reset on the TCM, much less what that even means?!?! So I turn to Google, which leads me to posts about resetting a Mazda ECM, KPM and whatever other modules there are for every vehicle currently driven on Earth.
So, if you have made it this far in my post (thank you, I am a HUGE talker, if you haven't noticed 🤷♀️) how in the world do I reset the TCM, actually hard reset my TCM?
For all you paragraph skimmers, how do I do a hard reset on my TCM? 🤣
AND...for all you mechanics, given all the details mentioned above, will a hard reset actually fix this issue? I honesty thought, since the part is remanufactured, that the part is actually defective.
So, if you have made it this far in my post (thank you, I am a HUGE talker, if you haven't noticed 🤷♀️) how in the world do I reset the TCM, actually hard reset my TCM?
For all you paragraph skimmers, how do I do a hard reset on my TCM? 🤣
AND...for all you mechanics, given all the details mentioned above, will a hard reset actually fix this issue? I honesty thought, since the part is remanufactured, that the part is actually defective.
February-23rd-2021 | 04:34 PM
#64
Registered User
Joined: Feb 2021
Posts: 4
Hello everyone,
This is a bit of a last resort and i am just trying to see if anyone else out there has had this problem or has a possible solution to what it may be. Here we go... I have a 2007 Mazda3 5 door 2.3L AT 5 speed with a little over 84k. I have had steelership do all oil changes and i did a trans oil/filter at 35k and 81k mi. last Sat., it started dropping from 5th to 3rd at highway speed. This was in "D". I tried putting it in manual and it limped the remaining 6 mi home without issue. Sunday was a different story, it did it in Manual and "D". Main offending gears were 3rd, 4th, and 5th in "D" and manual. Sunday night i changed the trans fluid again (5 quarts not a full flush). Fluid was a little dirty but not that bad. Just wanted to make sure it wasnt some filter issue. I took it out at about 130am after finishing (different long story behind that) and it did it almost immediately in the same gears and conditions, like less than 1000 ft of driving. I took streets on Monday and took it to the steelership on Tuesday at 830 AM.
I explained that it does it always after it is at operating temp and sometimes then it is cold, the check enginge light was on, the DCS light comes on when it does it and stays on after the 2nd or 3rd time, and the light that shows what gear i am in disappears sometimes when it happens. Steelership said that it needed ECU update and had a loose harness at the cluster. This was Late Tuesday. On Wednesday they said they were finishing that up and there were some other repairs i had going on that were the a/c control and stereo. The parts would be 2 days so it would be ready friday (yesterday).
So i pick it up Friday and everything processed. Checked the paperwork and it said that trans fluid was "dirty", odd after changing it on sun but ok. I get into the vehicle and the check engine light was on. I told them about it and he said the tech had forgotten to clear the code and if it stayed on they would clear/check it on mon/tues when i could come back in. So i drive home and no events. Check Engine light goes off as it should after 2 cycles with no code, and i go home. Next morning(today) i start it to warm it up and the check engine light and the DSC light are on. Again i get about 1/4 of a mile omw to drop kids off at parents before going to work and the trans starts doing it all over again. It has done it all day no matter where i go or how i drive it. I am not hard on this vehicle and have 2 questions(thanks for bearing with me):
1. When you update the ECU does that remove the engine codes, like totally re-write the memory? I ask because if it does, then the code happened again after they flashed it, or they never really did anything.
2. WHAT COULD BE WRONG HERE??????
Thanks in advanced for your advice.
PS i will try and post a little video of what it was doing
This is a bit of a last resort and i am just trying to see if anyone else out there has had this problem or has a possible solution to what it may be. Here we go... I have a 2007 Mazda3 5 door 2.3L AT 5 speed with a little over 84k. I have had steelership do all oil changes and i did a trans oil/filter at 35k and 81k mi. last Sat., it started dropping from 5th to 3rd at highway speed. This was in "D". I tried putting it in manual and it limped the remaining 6 mi home without issue. Sunday was a different story, it did it in Manual and "D". Main offending gears were 3rd, 4th, and 5th in "D" and manual. Sunday night i changed the trans fluid again (5 quarts not a full flush). Fluid was a little dirty but not that bad. Just wanted to make sure it wasnt some filter issue. I took it out at about 130am after finishing (different long story behind that) and it did it almost immediately in the same gears and conditions, like less than 1000 ft of driving. I took streets on Monday and took it to the steelership on Tuesday at 830 AM.
I explained that it does it always after it is at operating temp and sometimes then it is cold, the check enginge light was on, the DCS light comes on when it does it and stays on after the 2nd or 3rd time, and the light that shows what gear i am in disappears sometimes when it happens. Steelership said that it needed ECU update and had a loose harness at the cluster. This was Late Tuesday. On Wednesday they said they were finishing that up and there were some other repairs i had going on that were the a/c control and stereo. The parts would be 2 days so it would be ready friday (yesterday).
So i pick it up Friday and everything processed. Checked the paperwork and it said that trans fluid was "dirty", odd after changing it on sun but ok. I get into the vehicle and the check engine light was on. I told them about it and he said the tech had forgotten to clear the code and if it stayed on they would clear/check it on mon/tues when i could come back in. So i drive home and no events. Check Engine light goes off as it should after 2 cycles with no code, and i go home. Next morning(today) i start it to warm it up and the check engine light and the DSC light are on. Again i get about 1/4 of a mile omw to drop kids off at parents before going to work and the trans starts doing it all over again. It has done it all day no matter where i go or how i drive it. I am not hard on this vehicle and have 2 questions(thanks for bearing with me):
1. When you update the ECU does that remove the engine codes, like totally re-write the memory? I ask because if it does, then the code happened again after they flashed it, or they never really did anything.
2. WHAT COULD BE WRONG HERE??????
Thanks in advanced for your advice.
PS i will try and post a little video of what it was doing
I did a lot of searching around, dealers are getting up to $680 for a new one.
I'm in an auto related business and even the jobber price was $560.
I've seen them new for as low as $499 online.
However, there's rebuilder in GA that sells them for $199, so this is what I went with UpFix.com
Instructions included in the box show a diagram recommending that you wire-tie it to the brake lines so it no longer absorbs heat from the transmission. The heat is what kills them. They also include a small flat-rate box and address label for the core return.
Shipping was super fast too.
May-25th-2021 | 08:04 PM
#65
Registered User
Joined: May 2021
Posts: 1
Hey guys, just some extra info that many of you may not be aware of concerning the infamous TCM (Transmission Control Module) failures.
If you have a Mazda 3 that is PZEV (Partial Zero Emission Vehicle) certified, then the TCM is a FREE warranty replaced item under the PZEV warranty for 15 years / 150,000 miles!!
This applies to PZEV-certified cars currently registered in the following 9 states: California, Connecticut, Maine, Maryland, Massachusetts, New Jersey, New York, Rhode Island or Vermont.
You can determine if you have a PZEV car by the emissions label located under the hood. However, to absolutely confirm that your faulty TCM will be covered for FREE under the PZEV warranty, it is best to call the Mazda Customer Experience Center at 800-222-5500. They will ask for your VIN and confirm that your TCM is covered. Best to give them the TCM part # for a quicker response. The part # for all 2007-2009 Mazda 3s is L34T-18-9E1A (the last letter is the Revision and can be an A, B, C, D, or E.
A Mazda warranty repair will require you to go to the Mazda dealer for the diagnosis and repair. You will have to pay for the initial diagnosis fee, but it will be waived if the TCM is determined to be faulty.
So, if you have a PZEV-certified Mazda and you have determined that your TCM is faulty and you are in 1 of the 9 states noted above, you might want to have Mazda replace it for FREE vs. you buying a new one for $500+.
Note the PZEV 15-yr/150k mile warranty applies to most all emission-related parts so be sure and check before spending your own $$ and DIY'ing any of these related parts.
If you have a Mazda 3 that is PZEV (Partial Zero Emission Vehicle) certified, then the TCM is a FREE warranty replaced item under the PZEV warranty for 15 years / 150,000 miles!!
This applies to PZEV-certified cars currently registered in the following 9 states: California, Connecticut, Maine, Maryland, Massachusetts, New Jersey, New York, Rhode Island or Vermont.
You can determine if you have a PZEV car by the emissions label located under the hood. However, to absolutely confirm that your faulty TCM will be covered for FREE under the PZEV warranty, it is best to call the Mazda Customer Experience Center at 800-222-5500. They will ask for your VIN and confirm that your TCM is covered. Best to give them the TCM part # for a quicker response. The part # for all 2007-2009 Mazda 3s is L34T-18-9E1A (the last letter is the Revision and can be an A, B, C, D, or E.
A Mazda warranty repair will require you to go to the Mazda dealer for the diagnosis and repair. You will have to pay for the initial diagnosis fee, but it will be waived if the TCM is determined to be faulty.
So, if you have a PZEV-certified Mazda and you have determined that your TCM is faulty and you are in 1 of the 9 states noted above, you might want to have Mazda replace it for FREE vs. you buying a new one for $500+.
Note the PZEV 15-yr/150k mile warranty applies to most all emission-related parts so be sure and check before spending your own $$ and DIY'ing any of these related parts.
Thank you so much "Theg" for posting this.
November-9th-2021 | 12:28 PM
#66
Registered User
Joined: Nov 2021
Posts: 2
AT light issue
I have a 2012 Mazda 3i sport. A couple months ago I was having issues with the AT light and shifting. I had the TCM replaced and didn’t have issues up until now. I was on 840 and suddenly the AT light came on and my car started shifting. I pulled over and turned the car off. Turned back on and the light was gone. Started driving and it did it again. I checked the tcm and fluid and it seemed fine. I had the battery reset and it hasn’t done anything since, about a week. I’m just scared to drive my car at this point.
Edit
Edit
June-5th-2022 | 09:14 PM
#68
Registered User
Joined: Jun 2022
Posts: 2
2006 Mazda 3 2.3L auto with U0101 code - check engine light and AT light on. 217K KM's or ~132K miles.
Called my local shop and they're $1,100 new–1/3 cost of the car! Local (Vancouver BC) shop are charging a considerable cost for used too - ranging from $250 to $450CDN. Unsure if it's worthwhile to get used, since it's a gamble how long it will last.
Mazda's are great cars, but can be a PITA with these issues.
Called my local shop and they're $1,100 new–1/3 cost of the car! Local (Vancouver BC) shop are charging a considerable cost for used too - ranging from $250 to $450CDN. Unsure if it's worthwhile to get used, since it's a gamble how long it will last.
Mazda's are great cars, but can be a PITA with these issues.
May-19th-2024 | 12:59 PM
#69
Registered User
Joined: May 2024
Posts: 1
I tried a search, came up with this thread. New member, 2008 3 with 2.3l. P0778 code, after warm up, few miles drive, 5th gear off throttle, check engine light and AT come on. Hard down shift to 3rd, then the lights stay on but it seems to drive reasonably ok around town with firmer shifts. I hookup a Snapon Solus Ultra diagnostic scanner, and do a functional test while driving. It shows no readings and still drives the same. I stop and clear the codes and switch to Data Display and do another test drive. The car drives perfectly and the transmission shifts perfectly. The scanner is on the line pressure B% setting, and I get varying readings at the 4-5 and 5-4 shift moments depending on throttle and speed.
I disconnect the scanner while still driving, and it continues to perform perfectly, smooth shifts all through the range up and down, no check engine or AT lights for miles.
I stop and turn off the car and wait for a bit, start the car up and go again without Scanner hooked up. Very quickly the Check engine and AT are back on and the hard shifts etc. are as before. Rehook the scanner on the Data Dsiplay and all is perfect again.
My question is What would the scanner in Data Display be doing to the TCM or the ECU that aren't happening without it? Apparently all the wiring and the solenoids are in functioning condition, no mechanical problems. or physical wiring shorts or opens, since it can function properly.
I disconnect the scanner while still driving, and it continues to perform perfectly, smooth shifts all through the range up and down, no check engine or AT lights for miles.
I stop and turn off the car and wait for a bit, start the car up and go again without Scanner hooked up. Very quickly the Check engine and AT are back on and the hard shifts etc. are as before. Rehook the scanner on the Data Dsiplay and all is perfect again.
My question is What would the scanner in Data Display be doing to the TCM or the ECU that aren't happening without it? Apparently all the wiring and the solenoids are in functioning condition, no mechanical problems. or physical wiring shorts or opens, since it can function properly.
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