Help: 2012 Mazda3 Amp install (non-Bose) with LOC
#1
Help: 2012 Mazda3 Amp install (non-Bose) with LOC
I know how to remove the head unit and everything, I just need to install the line out converter.
I have the non Bose, 4 speaker system, and Im looking to upgrade it. Its horrible and handles no bass, so Im going to buy 4 new speakers and an amp.
From what Ive read, the stock speakers carry about 35W each, is that peak or RMS (continuous power)?
Also, I know that the stock head unit will not be able to carry the speakers Im looking at which are 90W RMS/200W peak, without distortion due to under powering. So I will need an amplifier with a LOC to make RCA's work for the amp.
Once you have the stock HU removed and the 3 harnesses disconnected, whats the next step? Id like to avoid the soldering motherboard technique, thats just asking for trouble.
Also, this will not interfere with the steering wheel controls, or the computer one the dash? (I have the blue, basic setup with only outside temp, audio info and time)
After installing the converter, do you need to do anything else to plug in the amp (besides power/ground and speaker wires of course), like a few years ago I did some stereos and there was a small wire for "remote", do I need anything like that on this car?
If I come up with anything else Ill update. Please post pics if you can find any or if you personally have any.
I have the non Bose, 4 speaker system, and Im looking to upgrade it. Its horrible and handles no bass, so Im going to buy 4 new speakers and an amp.
From what Ive read, the stock speakers carry about 35W each, is that peak or RMS (continuous power)?
Also, I know that the stock head unit will not be able to carry the speakers Im looking at which are 90W RMS/200W peak, without distortion due to under powering. So I will need an amplifier with a LOC to make RCA's work for the amp.
Once you have the stock HU removed and the 3 harnesses disconnected, whats the next step? Id like to avoid the soldering motherboard technique, thats just asking for trouble.
Also, this will not interfere with the steering wheel controls, or the computer one the dash? (I have the blue, basic setup with only outside temp, audio info and time)
After installing the converter, do you need to do anything else to plug in the amp (besides power/ground and speaker wires of course), like a few years ago I did some stereos and there was a small wire for "remote", do I need anything like that on this car?
If I come up with anything else Ill update. Please post pics if you can find any or if you personally have any.
#2
This is possibly the line out I may use.
So basically Im going to cut the speaker wires from the harness behind the head unit and plug them into this accordingly, then Im going to plug in the RCA's into the amp where they should go, and reroute the wires from the speakers-to-stereo so that its speakers-to-amplifier?
Im going to use a 4-channel amp, heres the specs:
Features and Specs
Performance
RMS Power Output (Watts x Channels) 100 x 4
Peak Power Output (Watts x Channels) 143 x 4
Power at 2 Ohms (Watts x Channels) 135 x 4
Bridged Power (Watts x Channels) 270 x 2
Minimum Impedance Bridged 4
Minimum Impedance Unbridged 2
Best Frequency Response 12-25k Hz
THD at Rated RMS Power 1%
Signal to Noise Ratio 88 dB
Input Voltage 14.4v
Features
Amplifier Class AB
Low-Pass Crossover Frequency 60-200 Hz
Low-Pass Slope (dB/octave) 12 dB/oct
High-Pass Crossover Frequency 15-250 Hz
High-Pass Slope (dB/octave) 12 dB/oct
Bass Boost 0-18 dB
And here are the speakers I wanted (specs):
Sensitivity 92 dB at 1 watt
Frequency Response 50 - 25k Hz
RMS Power Range (Watts) 15-90
Peak Power Handling (Watts) 200
Impedance (Ohms) 3
So basically Im going to cut the speaker wires from the harness behind the head unit and plug them into this accordingly, then Im going to plug in the RCA's into the amp where they should go, and reroute the wires from the speakers-to-stereo so that its speakers-to-amplifier?
Im going to use a 4-channel amp, heres the specs:
Features and Specs
Performance
RMS Power Output (Watts x Channels) 100 x 4
Peak Power Output (Watts x Channels) 143 x 4
Power at 2 Ohms (Watts x Channels) 135 x 4
Bridged Power (Watts x Channels) 270 x 2
Minimum Impedance Bridged 4
Minimum Impedance Unbridged 2
Best Frequency Response 12-25k Hz
THD at Rated RMS Power 1%
Signal to Noise Ratio 88 dB
Input Voltage 14.4v
Features
Amplifier Class AB
Low-Pass Crossover Frequency 60-200 Hz
Low-Pass Slope (dB/octave) 12 dB/oct
High-Pass Crossover Frequency 15-250 Hz
High-Pass Slope (dB/octave) 12 dB/oct
Bass Boost 0-18 dB
And here are the speakers I wanted (specs):
Sensitivity 92 dB at 1 watt
Frequency Response 50 - 25k Hz
RMS Power Range (Watts) 15-90
Peak Power Handling (Watts) 200
Impedance (Ohms) 3
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