well I don't really judge products on where and how they are sold - but the reason they give is amsoil does not want to undercut the dealers that have made them so sucessful over the years - the small guy joe public - and for the walmarts, autozones etc to sell the product they would have to do that.

www.amsoil.com is pretty easy for me. just become a preferred customer for 10 bucks and their oil becomes very reasonable. they also have an application to help you chose the products for your car.

I am even throwing around the idea of becoming a dealer - I do see a need for some companies around my house using fleet vehicles that could benefit from their oil by not changing oil as much. But just an idea - my real job would have to calm down first.

 

What's your basis for this statement? Yeah, Motorcraft must suck since it's not advertised and endorsed like Castrol, Pennzoil and Mobil.

I don't drag race, autocross or even really beat on my car. I go to work and back.

Why do I need to spend $40 on oil?

If you care to browse through some of the 'used oil analysis threads' on Bobistheoilguy.com, you might be surprised. Many folks have reported great results with Motorcraft oil. In fact, I haven't read anything terribly bad about any particular brand.

 

I'm not doubting AMSOIL is fine stuff, but It's not practical(for me anyway) to order motor oil in the mail when plenty of fine oils are available in local stores.

 

I'm not really sure how to answer that. I wouldn't even consider using a non-synthetic oil, regardless of the fact that my car is raced hard pretty much every weekend during the summer.

first and foremost yeah the performance of a full synthetic is why I use it, but an important secondary reason is that I'm all about distancing myself from fossil fuels as much as possible. Sucks that royal purple and u.s. castrol and so many other 'full synthetic' fuels are just highly refined dino juice.

If you're going to use a conventional oil, the proven, trusted name brands are pretty friggin cheap, no? Can't you get mobil oil (I would never touch an exxonmobil product unless in some emergency situation, but that's talk for a different thread) for like $2 a quart?

 

thats fine but your previous statement made it sound like you were judging amsoil because it isn't found in stores. I keep my cars a long time and it just isn't practical for me to put an inferior oil in a car that I spent nearly 20 grand on just because I can drive to the store and get it. we keep our cars a long time and the money I spend on the oil all evens out when I don't have to change it as often along with better gas mileage - 5000 miles or twice a year is plenty with amsoil and probably too often.

 

Silver MS3

Am I wrong, did you say this was your first oil change and you went to Syn oil? I was always under the impression that you should break-in you engine on dyno oil for at least 6000 miles before you change to syn. oil. If I'm wrong please advise as I want to put my 08 MazdaSpeed on Syn. asap.

Thanks BOB9995

 

This is just an old mechanics tale. Many high end cars ship from the factory with synthetic oil. I changed my 2008 MS3 to synthetic at 2k miles and I would have changed it earlier but for other things going on. I have been using Mobil 1 in all my cars for almost 30 years with no lubrication related failures. With time, valve springs fatigue and seals harden and fail, but mechanical weal practically stops once you install synthetic. Synthetic oil does not vaporize at top ring temps, so it helps maintain compression much longer than dino oil. I have always used a 10k mile oil change interval. I know many think this is too long, but my experience with this interval has been good.
-enganear

 

I think you've been brainwashed, dude.

Define proven and trusted names. All the big ones advertised on TV?? Pennzoil is very well known, but I wouldn't put it in a lawnmower engine. Why? It's notorious for leaving heavy paraffin residue, which is a cheap filler added to the base oil, however people continue to use it and swear by it. Just because something is popular doesn't mean it's a good product. Ipods are pretty popular, but I absolutely hate them.

Tell me again why Motorcraft is bad oil. You've yet to produce any valid evidence to back your criticisms of dino oil.

Your statement about not using fossil fuels is completely asinine. I don't know if anyone ever told you, but gasoline is made directly from crude oil. Gasoline IS a fossil fuel and when you go out racing on the weekends, you're sure burning a lot more of it than in normal driving. Motor oil isn't a fuel. It's a lubricant. If you bring your used oil to a recycle center, no harm is done to the environment.


Some of y'all are acting like your engine is going to seize up if you don't have synthetic oil in it.

 

I would think that the Mazda manual is correct and you are wrong about the viscosity. The best way to void your warranty is to ignore the manual and guess at what is best. RTFM. That's why they print the thing.

 

No flames here, each to his own. I originally switched to Mobil 1 in all my cars after their gear oil solved a heat problem I had in an industrial gearbox on an offshore drilling rig. It ran much cooler and saved my a$$.

Burt Rutan could have used any oil he wanted in the Voyager Around the World Non-stop, Non-refueled record flight. He chose Mobil 1 synthetic.

I use synthetic because of the high temperature breakdown characteristics which far exceed dino oil, the more linear temp/viscosity characteristics, and the extended change intervals. I can justify the cost based on these points. YMMV
-enganear

 

Fair enough.

 

I realize that is why they print it - but if you did research or asked an honest mechanic the 0 is for cold temp viscosity and so it is actually better than 5w-30 - giving more lubrication at startup which is where most of the wear on the engine is going to be - the second number is the viscosity at operating temperature which is the same so actually it is a better quality oil. so it was not a guess this stuff is nothing to guess at and it isn't rocket science either.

the dealer I go to is honest and doesn't spread FUD and also said it would not void the warranty and they put in writing on my receipt they actually thought amsoil is one of the top oils if not the best. so no it won't void the warranty but keep spreading FUD.

 

no **** but anywhere that I have a choice to eliminate a fossil fuel product I will.

I think getting 36mpg when I'm not racing makes up for it plus it's a ULEV car so tailpipe emissions are actually cleaner than the air in many urban environments.

I'm not going to bring up evidence against Motorcraft oil, not worth my time since you're a fanatic about it.

I'll stick to Redline full synthetic, oil changes every 3k miles