ok...I'll try to explain...

As I have mentioned before I installed a sub and a mp3 changer in my trunk. I connected the sub to the factory speaker wires in the back of the stereo. The thing is if I play it too loud (over 20 something) SOMETIMES the stereo shuts off the sound and I have to restart the engine to reset the radio or something like that. Not a big problem since I don't play it too loud and it doesn't do it all the time. My question is will adding a separate amplifier (the sub has a build in amp) help the situation and what exactly is causing it? I'm thinking it's most likely a capacitor or something like that which is protecting the head unit from overloading. Any help would be appreciated. 10x

 

that is weird....maybe there is a bad connection somewhere and when you turn it up it vibrates it loose or against something of the opposite nature...that is the only reason i can think of...make sure the wires connecting the sub/changer are not near touching anything....other than that you just have a bad something lol

 

you should definitively use an amplifier for the sub, I'm not familiar with the OEM scheme of the Mazda 3 but as I recall the OEM unit has no RCA output, nor a OEM sub, correct me if I'm wrong, meaning you at least need a cross over to filter the high pitch frequencies for the Sub,making the bass what it should be... http://www.installer.com/hilo/, plus this setup increase the sub power and will draw current not from the stereo, but directly from the battery, thus resolving you hi-volume issue

 

Let me get this straight... If I install a separate amp it should fix it? Since I have to get the signal from the back of the radio to the amp ( just like it is now) isn't that the same thing as what I currently have? I guess I can try and if it doesn't help I'll return the amp

 

you have the bazooka right???? pm me if you need more help....

 

AUDIOBAHN but i think it's very similar to bazooka. I checked on google and I might try installing a MONO amp. It seems like that is what I need to supply the sub. I donno. I'll see

 

I think I know what's going on....looks like you are using low-level inputs to connect your subs with the built-in amp and since your amp DOES turn on and get power I assume you have connected the amp portion correctly. But my question to you is what guage is the wire you are using to connect your amp to the battery?

I had the same problem in my younger naive days when I connected my amp using some old speaker wires. Sure, the base would be there at low levels but, when I turn it up, the head unit would shut off (same problem as yours). I did not know that the wire should be pretty thick to supply the amp its power.

Anyways, I suggest you get an amp kit that suits your amp power. My 300W amp is using a wire that is about 5mm thick (3/16")

If you are using a correct amp kit, then it's something else.

 

I don't think that's the problem. My brother has exactly the same one in his car connected to an aftermarket JVC and never does it. And yes I installed it in both cars.
Here's a link with some good pics of it. I think I paid what they're asking but can't remember from where.
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...+ATB10AT.html#

 

DAmn... sorry I didn't read the part " (the sub has a build in amp)"

so you don't need a a separate amp... sorry Im a

The plot thickens... let me sleep on it

 

If you haven't solved this problem already I have a seperate amp and sub hooked up to the factory deck in my 3. You probably need to by the adapter that connects to the back of the head unit to prevent the overload from happening. I think they only run about $50 and I haven't had any problems pushing an Alpine 12.

 

What kind of adapter is it? Do you have part number, pics or any other info? 10x

 

i had the same problem when i first had my 2 12's installed.
the music would cut off above 15 i believe.
so futureshop installed a Level line invert converter (i think thats wat its called)
im stupid when it comes to car audio and all that, but its plugs into the amp, then you plug the wires into that.

wait, i tihnk the converter fixed the static i was getting... so ya, i dunno lol

 

I looked on the receipt and it didn't have the name of the part listed. It cost me $40 and it is attached the head unit. It allows the sub to be connected correctly to the head unit and when you modify the bass level on the head unit the sub will go with. I bought mine at a general car audio store (Car Toys probably has it)...try asking for a Mazda 3 Sub adapter to connect to the factory head unit. Also make sure that you are pulling enough power from the battery to the power the sub correctly. I am running an 8 gauge Kicker power cable. Just because the amp is powered doesn't mean it is being powered enough.

Dentinger;

How do you like those Angel Eyes...where did you buy (rpmstore.com?)