is this problem only on the 2.3, or all m3 engines?

 

To my knowledge, it's just the 2.3L (2004-2009 's' models).

 

has anyone figured out what the problem is?

 

I own a 2007 2.0, and I had the same problem. First I bought an Actron CP9575 scanner; it translates codes to English, and, you can find them for about $100. I figured that if I'm going to drive nothing but computer controlled cars, I might as well be able to converse with them. Also, I bought the Haynes Mazda 3 Repair Manual (Amazon) about $13. Even if you don't do your own repairs, this manual is very helpful with routine care, and it gives you a second opinion reference when dealing with repair shops. The error you have is either excess or lack of flow through Evap recovery. The cause can be a gas cap leak, canister plugged, line leak or defective purge valve. The gas cap gasket can be inspected for cracks or deformities. The canister is probably OK. Hose leaks are also rare, but can be checked. In my case, the culprit was a stuck open purge valve. One big indication that the purge valve is stuck is that the car will be hard to start after filling with fuel. The purge valve is located under the hood, under a couple of other lines between the engine and the computer/battery boxes. The purge valve is connected to the intake manifold via a line that runs directly over the throttle body and has a red retainer ring at the manifold connection. With engine off, disconnect the electric plug at the other end and the small spring hose clamp. Pull the rubber hose off the valve, and slip the rubber mount off of the engine bracket. Maneuver the valve so that you can blow through it. If you can blow through it, it's stuck. If you want to replace it yourself, I bought the entire assembly from Auto Parts Warehouse. This is the link to the part I bought http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/sk...3-1841751.html. This is a lot of verbiage, but now you know all that I know. Good luck.

 

Well I hate to say it but at 141,987 miles my mazda 2.3 sedan my oil is starting to just up and dissapear....I keep buying all the parts that this. Car came with mostly ngk and well my transmission mount is about to give out so I say at almost 150k miles and no engine swap yet I think im doing pretty good no engine knock no hose leaks everything is grade a when plugged into. Computer at auto zone and a mazda compiter. I just took off my aftermarket rims due to low gas mileage I prefer to just dip my factorys In black. I just had a small problem thought my key lost its programming but was quickly corrected it was a wrong removal of battery that causes the anti theft system to engage any one have that problem? For when you do dont think its your key half the time you just need to have an honest friend on your side that aint about making a living off your money rather just to give you the best deal possible.

 

[QUOTE=bigbrovar;421190]Just got a mazda 3 2005 2.3L automatic. I had a mechanic inspect the car before getting it. Is there anything I can do to prevent this problem that has been listed here? I read somewhere that the problem is more common with 2.3 with manual transmission. I really did put alot of money into getting this car (my first car) and would be really sad if the engine where to blow due to the problem listed here? Is there hope for me? or is it best to sell the car (just got it never even registered it for us)[ /Sell it!!
QUOTE]

 

I guess those expensive platinum warranties sometimes may be a good buy huh?

 

Well, I guess I'm not the only one.

Last night (February 12) I started driving home. The engine started making an odd noise, like someone was running a 3/8" electric drill under the hood. It was bitterly cold (-25 C or -13 F) here in the great white north, so I thought it was a belt slipping a bit until the car was warmed up.

After driving about 4 km. (2.5 miles) the CEL lit up. I had three choices: stop immediately on the side of the road, out by the side of a farmer's field where the wind was whipping up a blizzard of blowing snow, turn around and go back (4 km.) or continue on home and put my analyzer on the engine to check out the CEL (another 5 km.).

It's a CEL, right? We've all probably had CELs light up before. The last time I had one, it was a faulty thermostat that didn't close fully. The car ran fine. No big deal.

5 km. later the car just up and stopped. Wouldn't start again. Called a tow truck. Took it to the local Mazda dealer.

Local Mazda dealer says my oil pressure switch failed. The oil pressure switch has a plastic top. He didn't tell me this - I'm only guessing - but I suspect the plastic cracked and leaked oil

I told the Mazda guy that the oil pressure warning light didn't light up. He told me that it wouldn't because the oil pressure switch had failed. So the oil pressure switch can fail, spew oil out the engine, and you don't know because the low oil pressure warning light is controlled by the oil pressure switch, which is draining the oil out of your engine.

I checked my 2004 Mazda 3 FSM, and the only way that you can check if your oil pressure switch is operating correctly is to notice that the oil pressure warning light lights up when you turn on your ignition key and turns off when you start the engine. Of course, we always notice that, don't we.

So I have a blown engine. Only 85,500 miles on the car and I follow the Mazda maintenance schedule religiously.

If the oil pressure switch can fail and drain your oil out of your engine without any warning lights lighting up - until it's too late, and your engine dies - then this is a real bad design flaw, don't you think?

 

jim-san - Sorry about your engine, but glad that there was a problem found. Hopefully that will help at least some vehicles from biting the dust prematurely.

 

Thanks, djs2571. I would encourage all MZ3 owners to check their oil pressure switch when doing an oil change, or ask the person doing their oil changes to check it. I would just give the green plastic piece a good hard pull to see if it is going to come apart!

Here's what the broken oil pressure sensor looks like. The green part fits into the metal part.

I don't see what was holding it together - except maybe Krazy Glue?

 

The metal part was crimped over the edge of the green plastic... seen this on many parts. guess it rusted off & loosened to cause a leak.

 

I can't believe I'm hearing the same thing that happened to me this weekend! My care started making this tapping sound - like maybe I had fed it the wrong gas, and by the time I had driven 60 miles (was heading out of town), it all of a sudden got VERY loud and then pouf! My car started smoking..fortunately I was right at a Hwy exit. Had it towed to a shop and they told be a bolt had blown a hole out of the bottom of the engine!
I have a Mazda 3, 2005, 2.3 engine.
Am now waiting for the Mazda dealership to open on Monday to figure out whether to fix it or buy a new car.
I hardly ever drive it very far, have always done my suggested upkeep, and no, no engine lights came on!
Class actions lawsuit!!!

 

Sorry to hear you've had an engine blow too, MazdaSid. I can tell you from experience, it really, really sucks.

After investigating the cost of having a used 2.3L engine installed (about $CDN 3,500) I decided to replace my car. In spite of my experience with my blown engine I bought - you guessed it! - a 2013 Mazda 3 with only 7,200 miles on the odometer. I still think the MZ3 is the best car for the price.

I test drove the 2015 MZ3, but I much prefer the 2nd gen MZ3 over the 3rd gen cars. But that's a topic for another thread.

 

Crap add me to the list.

I just bought a 2004 Mazda 3 with 190K miles on it but had read nothing but good reviews on reliability, performance and gas milage. Had a multipoint pre inspection at a dealership, then had my mechanic do a more thorough look over, changed the plugs, front struts and everything checked out fine. It drove great for barely a month.

I put around $600 into it and just replaced the stereo one week ago with the additional steering wheel control adapter as well which was a royal pain.

Night before was running great like normal. Next morning horrific sound as I pulled out of housing addition. Mechanic says it sounds like a rod is knocking but that usually if a rod goes bad it damages the camshaft.

Absolutely no warning. I watched the oil like a hawk and nothing ever looked burned, absolutely no evidence of a leak (confirmed by my mechanic) but after going right back home there was no oil on the dipstick! Added 3.5 quarts but there was never any smoke, no oil pressure light and no drips...

WTTF?

 

Today, my "check oil" light came on just seconds before my engine made a horrendous noise and started to smoke. I'm at an auto center now. I changed my oil every 3000 to 5000 miles. It had been about 4000 miles since my last change. I had 166,000 miles on the car.

Apparently, my car has been burning oil more quickly as it has aged and/or I had an oil link that I wasn't aware of. I suppose if there is a lesson learned, it's to change oil ever 3K miles as your car ages - whatever that magic number might be.

It's very concerning that the "check oil" light didn't illuminate until seconds before the engine blew, though. I would not rely on that light as my only guide in the future. I hope this information might help somebody else save themselves a headache and lots of dollars.