The past month or so my 3 has been stuttering while in idle and even stalled a few times. I originally thought it was bad gas, but that's not the case. Yesterday my engine light came on, not the Check Engine Light, but the actual Engine Light. I noticed I was a little low on gas. I filled up my tank half way and the engine light went off. I thought that was strange (my gas cap was on tight so that's not the cause). I've done an oil change, changed my plugs, and air filter. Problem is still there. I was thinking it might be my coil packs or maybe the fuel filter? Could one of these cause the stuttering and the engine light? The coil packs look ok, but I figure I should change them anyway. I am currently at 85,000 miles. Holla with some help ! Gracias

 

Stuttering at idle, sounds like a coil pack. The engine light code could be "random misfire" or something along those lines. Find an auto parts store that will scan the code for you (most will do it for free to try and sell you parts)

 

Thanks Kansei. My engine light went off afer I filled up with gas so unfortunately I can't take it to auto zone for the code. I'm gonna order the coil packs from napa and just replace them anyway. I thought that might be what's causing the stuttering but wanted to get second opinions. Thanks for your help as always !!

 

Are coil packs this expensive - $100 for one? That's crazy. Also talked to napa and they said I'd have to go to the dealership for the part, they don't have any in stock or at their warehouse. Is there a way to determine which coil pack is bad or is it wise to replace all four of them?

 

As long as you haven't disconnected the battery, the code is still stored in the ECU and can be read. If it was a misfire isolated to a single coil, I believe the code would tell you which coil it was. 100 dollars per coil times four is painful, that's for sure.

From onlinemazdaparts.com (Montgomery Mazda out of North Carolina) the part is only $58 dollars per coil.

Ignition coil, mazda3 04-05 $73.61 $0.00 $58.89
Electrical - Ignition system - Ignition coil


This link should work: http://www.trademotion.com/partlocat...04&catalogid=1

 

OK - a couple months later and I still am having CEL problems - poor idle, stauling, I'm pissed off now. I got the following 2 engine codes:
Code is P0455. EVAP Large Leak Detected. Probable Causes are Defective Gas Cap, EVAP Canister Broke, Purge or vent Solenoid defective, Vacuum leak at engine.
The other code is P2187. System too lean at idle bank 1.
I am trying my best to cancel out options without having to pay too much. It would cost at least $120 for the mecahnic to just diagnose the problem. I figured I'd start with the gas cap, since I've read numerous articles of bad seals on 04 mazda 3. I've called many auto part stores and ofcourse they don't sell the caps and they say I have to go to a dealer which is charging $48 for a single gas cap !!! They are out of there f**king minds for charging that much. Is there any advice given the codes I've stated and maybe where I can find a cheaper gas cap?
Anyone experience this sort of thing on their 3? I am starting to lose patience fast.

 

Likely Requires Purge Solonoid ...sticks Open Causing Vac Leak From Fuel Tank. You Can Ck With Vac Gauge. And Usually A Tap On The Solonoid Will Make It Function Again. I've Changed Dozens Of These.

 

Actually this was what got replaced. This is on the recall list of Mazda 3 issues in my year of model along with my gas cap. Ofcourse these were dealer parts and it cost me $50 for the gas cap and $130 for the solenoid. Complete ripoff. I hate dealerships.

 

Possible To Get Your Money Back ...if They Are Recall Idems? Hope It Fixed Your Problem. Keep The Shinny Side Up!

 

I think by recall he meant TSB i.e. if you are out of warranty you gotta foot the bill even though a lot of TSBs are for known defects. Since the defects don't affect the safety of the car Mazda knows they won't get sued for them so no recall

For my car the TSB that screwed me like that prevents the A/C from working.. there's a revised control unit but it's a few hundred dollars I shouldn't have to spend.

 

I have a 2004 Mazda 3 and the Check Engine Light has come on about 10 times in the last 3 years. I punctured the oil pan about 3 years ago (after driving over a low unmarked island on a very snowy day). I had the car towed to the dealer and they replaced the oil pan. Since then I've had these issues:

Check Engine Light 1: Found Cam Sensor Code
Check Engine Light 2: P0012 Shorted Oil Control Valve
Check Engine Light 3: P0012 - CAM Shaft Sensor - Inspected crank pulley and CAM timing. Found CAM timing out of synch. Told to replace variable valve actuator by Mazda tech assistance. Replace actuator, reset CAM timing, cleared code, rechecked, ok.
Check Engine Light 4: Replaced EGR Valve and Gasket
Check Engine Light 5: Replaced Purge Solenoid Valve
Check Engine Light 6: Prem. Injector Service. Fuel Kit,
Check Engine Light 7: Replaced Purge Control Solenoid
Check Engine Light 8: Replaced Purge Solenoid Valve
Check Engine Light 9: Haven't brought it in yet

I don't know much about fixing cars so I started noting all of this to see a pattern. Is this purge solenoid valve a normal issue or is there something deeper causing them to have to replace this all the time. Any ideas would be great!

Thanks.

 

The purge solenoid is a common issue . Usually replacing it once ...that's it not usually a repeat condition. Get them to run a evap test on the system to see if passes . Do a repair if needed, then retest evap system to prove out repair. (With printouts)of test. The tank pressure control valve is sometimes also an issue , but only about 1 out of 50 compared to purge solenoid . Are you still getting codes for cam / timing / sensors as far as the other codes are concerned? If you are, sounds like the crank pulley damaged or has been moved on the crank . As they do not have a crank groove & key to hold them into place . Press fit !

 

The Purge Solenoid's are a recall in the 2004's. I just had mine replaced. I experienced the same issues, cel was on, stuttering at idle, etc. Unfortunately it is a dealer part and you are going to pay for it. I think my bill was around $200 for it with labor. Yes it sucks, Mazda seems to make buying parts at the local parts store a real bitch. It seems ridiculous that even the easy things to replace are not so easy (headlight bulbs, air filter), not that they are hard to replace but it's not as easy as 1,2,3.

 

My service station told me I had to replace the purge solenoid - is this the solenoid valve that is part of the emissions system? Or the solenoid that is part of the starter?

Which are you referring to here rsx type s?

Thanks!

 

The purge solenoid i am referring to, is the emissions purge solenoid . Open the hood , remove the plastic engine cover (for better viewing ) , you will see 2 lines coming from the firewall ,then changing into plastic connection lines , 1 will have a red retaining clip & 1 will be blue , the line with the purge solenoid , is the red 1 (Line on fire wall / solenoid / line to the front of the intake , also red retaining clip ) What happens, is this solenoid uses vacuum from the engine to test the Evap system . (pull a vacuum on the tank and other related parts ) But if it sticks open then it becomes a vacuum leak , drawing fumes / air from the fuel tank . This usually causes a Evap & system running lean code .