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Mazda 3 brake problem

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Old August-27th-2020 | 11:46 PM
  #16  
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Mazda3 Brake Disaster

I have a 2011 Mazda3 with 112,000 miles. I’ve been having brake issues. The pedal is very spongy. The car stops with the pedal nearly touching the floor, but when you double pump the brake pedal it stops as a normal car should. When you press the brake pedal you can hear and feel what sounds like air releasing until the pedal goes as low as it will go.

I took it to a mechanic who replaced the rotors and brake pads and bled the brakes. Hundred of dollars later, the problem persisted.

I took it to another mechanic who bled the brakes again, clamped hoses to release fluid. The problem persisted.

Finally I went to the dealer. They said I have a leak in the ABS hydraulic pump AND a leak in the master cylinder AND I need to reflush the system. They are saying it will cost $2,400. I’m not sure why the abs and master cylinder are failing and I’m frustrated that none of this is recalled or covered by warranty. Why are Mazda’s brakes failing us? Isn’t this dangerous?

Has anyone had this issue?? Advice is greatly appreciated. Thanks.

Last edited by Itsrejk; August-27th-2020 at 11:50 PM.
Old September-22nd-2021 | 05:32 PM
  #17  
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spongy brakes

I have same issue on 2011 Mazda3 with 112,000 miles. The brake pedal is very "soft", but works "ok" if pumped a few times. Local mechanic shop says bad ABS control and pump and will be $1,500. Is this reasonable?? Should I take to the dealer?
Old April-16th-2022 | 01:42 AM
  #18  
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Same :(

Originally Posted by Nikka1
I have a 2004 Mazda 3 2.0 manual. I am having issues with the braking system. My pedal is very spongy and goes to the stop but if I double pump it it is a good pedal. I am a mechanic myself but I can't worked out whats going on. I have replaced theaster cylinder, stripped the calipers and inspected them. Bleed the brakes a few times. Even when I block off all the lines the pedal is still not good. It also makes a really quiet whistling noise when you release the brakes. If you have had a similar problem or have any ideas please help.
It sounds like you got air in through the master cylinder while working on your break lines. I'm still trying to solve the problem myself. I'm looking into bleeding the master cylinder while still connected to the car.

Good luck,
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