Originally my GF's car was idling rough, would die on occasions when cold without any engine light issues. Took her car to the dealer in which the "Tech Mechanic" said that the Throttle Body was possibly dirty and needed cleaning, So I bought a can of throttle body cleaner as needed and cleaned it the best I could. It looked good before without hardly any carbon build-up or dirt.

A week or so went by and finally we got out engine light, now I can pull the code, when I pulled it at home, it came up as P0507.

Brought it back to Mazda dealership... Told us to replace the throttle body for a $800. So I got one off a damaged Mazda 3 with around 15hundred miles on it. Come to find out when I removed it, they picked one from a 2010 2.5L which are different. So I had to reinstall the same. Found the original gasket top square from the bottom round was turned not making a good seal... So I'm thinking it was a vacuum issue. So having a new gasket of course changed it out as I was going to do so any ways.

Car runs and idles better then ever but a few days go by and the "Check engine light" came on once again. So I had LKQ find another in which I swapped the other for one that was correct and had 60k miles on it. I cleaned it and installed it. Car runs GREAT! GF excited, Idles better then ever, and originally changed the spark plugs.

A day later "Check Engine Light" Illuminates... After replacing it the other day. GF calls that it just turned on once again.

This is the first issue of this car. Currently has just over 60k on it. I am currently seeking another replacement under it's warranty.

Any other suggestions would be GREATLY APPRECIATED!!

~Mud

 

UPDATE#1

2006 Mazda 3 S (2.3L) Non-Turbo

So in doing more research on this... I found this helpful information. It's obvious that we have been experiencing the same exact symptoms. Hard to want to shell out $600+ for a new throttle body when you know there are wrecked cars out there with perfectly good throttle body units. Finding one is key! But making sure before you "Purchase" one, that you make sure they except returns. Make sure you check to make sure you get the correct year and liter of engine for your vehicle! Inventories aren't correct at some places!

Changing one is simple and takes 30 minutes at best!
Purchase a new Gasket - Most likely a "Dealer Item"
Simply remove the Filter intake cover and the vacuum line to it and it's electric connector.
Remove the electric connector to the Throttle body itself. (Pull up in "Red" tab and simply pull up)
Cross head screw driver to remove the intake boot to throttle body of Air Filter assembly top.
Two hose line plastic pinchers - (Harbor Freight) to pinch the two small radiator fluid lines. *(Something to block the line and using vacuum end caps to plug the ends to the throttle body.
1/4 ratchet with 3" extension and 10mm socket - Remove the 4 bolts to the Throttle Body.

Reverse for Installation

Modern vehicles feature sophisticated computer-controlled engine systems. These systems, however, can only perform as well as the data fed them by their electronic sensors. The throttle position sensor helps the engine set the correct fuel mixture for the vehicle from moment to moment, and if this sensor malfunctions, the car can experience a host of problems, such as stalling, rough idling and lackluster engine performance.

Symptoms of a Bad Throttle Position Sensor
Modern vehicles feature sophisticated computer-controlled engine systems. These systems, however, can only perform as well as the data fed them by their electronic sensors. The throttle position sensor helps the engine set the correct fuel mixture for the vehicle from moment to moment, and if this sensor malfunctions, the car can experience a host of problems, such as stalling, rough idling and lackluster engine performance.

Read more:

Symptoms of a Bad Throttle Position Sensor - Description
A throttle position sensor works as a potentiometer, sending variable voltage signals to a car's main computer to let it know how far the throttle plates have opened. The engine then uses this data to calculate the proper mix of air to fuel the car's needs at that moment for optimal performance. The sensor feeds a low-level signal--typically less than one volt--to indicate a fully closed throttle, adding voltage gradually as the throttle opens and sending a full five volts when the throttle opens completely.

Acceleration Problems:
A car that seems to hesitate or stumble during acceleration may have a faulty throttle position sensor. AA1Car.com explains if the sensor sends the wrong throttle position message to the engine, the engine will not add extra fuel to the mixture until the oxygen sensor feedback circuit steps in to correct the imbalance. This momentary miscommunication will cause the car to hesitate. Sometimes a sensor may develop one or more dead spots in its response, so as the potentiometer passes those spots, the car hesitates. Sensor wear often causes a dead spot just above its normal "idling" position.

Intermittent Problems:
If your car idles unevenly or hesitates intermittently, regardless of acceleration, the throttle position sensor may simply have a loose connection. This loose connection sends out multiple signals, confusing the computer with indications that the throttle keeps opening and closing.

Poor Initial Performance
If your car engine seems to perform roughly from its first day on the road, the throttle position sensor may suffer from an incorrect initial setting. Throttle position sensor settings must conform to factory specifications precisely, and normally a new car has had its throttle position sensor adjusted to within 1/100 of a volt. A car that may seem like a "lemon" may in fact need only a tiny adjustment to the throttle position sensor setting to run perfectly.

Troubleshooting:
A device called a multimeter can detect incorrect voltages issuing from the throttle position sensor. As described by the Electronics Club website, a multimeter typically includes an voltmeter, ohmmeter and other capabilities. Wells Manufacturing Company recommends attaching the meter to the sensor without the engine or ignition engaged. If you open the throttle slowly by hand, you should see a smooth rise or drop on the multimeter's voltage display. Testing all three terminals on the sensor can either isolate or eliminate the sensor as the cause of the throttle problem.


I found another tonight (By chance) for $100 and talked the guy to $80 and replaced it before we went out for dinner. (Driving her car). Will Update in a few days or if her engine light comes on again.
The original one I got cost me $180 with 60K miles on it. With an extra exchange or return on it's way on 11/5/12. Hopefully we won't need it! and I can just get my $ back to just spend on her. )

http://www.wellsve.com/sft503/Counterpoint2_1.pdf

~Mud

 

Shop Manual troubleshooting TPS issue.

http://www.justanswer.com/mazda/6yyj...le-engine.html

~Mud

 

Thanks for the info!

 

I have a 2004 Mazda 3 I and i need a throttle sensor and I've looked everywhere online and I can not find one. please help